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Well 2 1/2 hrs to Peterborough, Steve wasn't available when I arrived but another very helpful chap was standing in, He checked the chassis plate against the V5 filled out the second form and we were back on the road in 10 minutes....
Guess thats it, not the nightmare I expected and now my Triumph Herald has become a Sammio Spyder
Was all over so quick I never got a chance to get my phone out for a quick snapshot...
[COLOR="Red"]Trailer now redundant £125 for quick sale - see separate thread[/COLOR]
Since the inspection is out of the way my out riggers mysteriously fell off like so many before, this gave me the first opportunity to fit the bonnet.
It soon became apparent that there were issues to be resolved.
If I got the shut line as near to fit as possible the left hand side of the bonnet had no material left at the rear of the wheel arch,
This has been an issue with other builds and people cut and altered the bulk head to suit.
However if i pulled the bonnet further forward 50mm then that gave me the full width behind the front arch and clearance over my top radiator hose as well as allowing the bonnet to sit as low as I dare.
So decision made I gave it a start, firstly masking of the and trimming back to the new shut line
The rear of the masking tape is where i will build up the bulk head to the new closure line..
Then I layered a bed of fibre glass to extend the shut line and bonnet support lip, added a layer of bonding paste and topped again with more glass
Very much a works in progress hoping to end up with a close line that doesnt look kitcar and the strength across without risk of cracking, I will let you know how it goes..
Wow, that looks like quite a bridge you've gapped there. So, does this mean you can do without any scoops or bulges for clearance? Just remind me what engine you're running?
This stage is pretty exciting, though, isn't it? The final hurdle is definitely in sight...
Wow, that looks like quite a bridge you've gapped there. So, does this mean you can do without any scoops or bulges for clearance? Just remind me what engine you're running?
This stage is pretty exciting, though, isn't it? The final hurdle is definitely in sight...
Towed its just a lowly 1300 Spitfire engine, but it looked like the Radiator top hose would fowl, with this slight mod theres no need for any bulge or scoop, although probably more work involved if I am to achieve the clean shut line I want..
I must say I am enjoying this stage more as every step is that little bit closer to the end.
One other point I have found, my Clutch and Brake Cylinders are so far under the front I cant get the top off them if left as standard, this is partly due to the fact I was concentrating on getting the body to wrap the side rails and may sit a little lower than norm, however it doesnt explain why mine sit so far back under the top panel, worse now I have extended it.
Oh well just another solution to find, I can raise the front of the cylinder brackets by just enough to get access to the tops, other than the fluid reaching the brim of the pot I dont think it will affect the operation of the pedals or function in any way, unless someone out there knows better...
Having moved my entire bulkhead assembly back 20mm to improve tyre clearance, I had the same problem with the resovoir caps being trapped under the edge of the bulkhead. My solution was to put an angled recess at that point and 'notch' the front edge of the bulkhead so you can get the caps on and off.
I took a similar approach in recessing the (aftermarket) brake servo and the battery.
Looking back at various thread now I can see that some people have had major issues with the bonnet to bulkhead alignment, while others, like mine, have been relatively straightforward.
My personal opinion on this one is that I think it's due to the original mule chassis and bulkhead that Gary used to develop the frames and bodies not being quite the same dimensions as customer donor cars.
This is in no way meant to be a criticism of Gary as I believe no two Triumphs ever left the factory exactly the same when they were new. As an example, Phil J and I only live about eight miles apart, so we can regularly drop by and compare cars. All three are '68 or '69 Vitesse based, but the engines are mounted at noticeably different angles in Phil's two cars, with the blue one being almost level while the green one sits much higher at the front (like mine).
Additionally, both the cars that Phil's completed will take 175/80/14 tyres without fouling the front bulkheads. Mine, however, appears to have the mounting points for the front suspension arms about an inch and a half further back on the chassis than either of his. This meant that I had to move my bulkhead back 20mm and bash the faces of the footwells in with a lump hammer to clear 175/70/14's.
Another thing I noticed when I bonded my body on was that I could either have the rear edge of the cockpit properly aligned with the frame, or the front edge of the cockpit above the dash properly aligned, but not both together. I chose to have the dash end straight meaning the frame touches the inside edge of the back of the cokpit on the o/s, but there's a gap of about an inch between the back edge of the cockpit and the frame on the n/s. If I'd bonded the body on straight at the back, that inch of misalignment would've been at the front, which possibly explains the mismatch between bulkhead and bonnet that some people are experiencing.
I hope that all makes some sense to some of you and sorry for posting such a lengthy thread.
Worst case scenario I have to drop that section of bulkhead down by 1/2 inch and the pedals to match, will know more once finished rebuilding shut lines , if the cylinders caps fowl the bonnet close line. Suppose I could fashion a hinged flap, that would fit in with the adapt and overcome ethos that seems to fit in with 50s racers....
OK just got to finish rebuilding a shed so I can justify some serious Sammio time...
Pops
That is a perfect example of why DVLA frustrate me ....don't get me wrong , its a perfectly acceptable description and if you ever plan on selling overseas , it will def. be to your advantage having Triumph on the book , as its a recognised manufacturer .......
I have tried to get that description for customers abroad in the past and been told , ''no way , no longer a Triumph product , no longer says Triumph'' etc. etc.
The inconsistency of inspection criteria and vehicle descriptions etc. just show how the system is flawed......
Just got back home and went to the garage to do a bit, its so cold I just couldn't get motivated, maybe a common problem as I am not seeing a lot of progress reports on here...
I know what you mean, today was the first day this winter where i had a fleece on under the coveralls!
Time to dig out the electric heater and carefully select evening jobs to be 'inside' ones and leave the ones where i need the door open for the weekend.
What I wouldn't give for a cold garage...
... youth of today ...
... don't know their born ...
[/Grumble]
Oops, think I struck a nerve there.
Thing is, although my centrally heated, fully carpeted (Wilton, of course) warehouse sized double garage is quite handy for storing my car, I tend to have one of the staff roll it outside to work on. I'm an artist, you see and light is my medium...
Having made a final decision on the colour of my Spyder countless times I find myself with one more interesting option.
Brushed Aluminium Vinyl wrap,
It seems to be a viable alternative to paint, 3-5 years lifespan, and at around £150 for the complete car (DIY) may be worth a shot. The only issue I have is that the brush effect would go across the car rather than the length if avoiding seams.
Thought the bare Aluminium would be in keeping with the 50's race look,
Of course for those who are a little more daring there is the "chrome wrap"
Seeing as this can be removed with no adverse effect options are open for future changes..
Sample on its way if it forms over the hump then this is the way to go for me.
Will keep you posted..
Pops
eep: 
