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No pictures but starting to hopefully make progress.
After trying/borrowing another Helix clutch plate, which worked fine, had problems convincing Helix that there was a problem with there product. After a few heated discussions on the other end of the phone, I went in person to collect the cover plate from them as I was in the area. Low and behold, it seems like it is now working.
Doing the method of hand turning the crank, someone pressing clutch pedal, someone observe plate being released from flywheel. Only a slight drag every so often, but hoping it just needs bedding in or the flywheel will be spinning a lot faster than I can turn it!
So engine/box back in. One driveshaft back in (broken balljoint on order for the other side). Battery tray mounted.
Things to do.
Complete fitting of water pipes.
Connect up gearchange cables.
Resolder/install connector for a few wires (found I had been eager and solder a fair few wires. Which when coming to remove the engine, had to snip! Good run through though.
Wire in resistor so Rover temp gauge is correct for VW temp sender.
Fit chargecooler rad and plumb in. Re route boost hoses as driveshaft in the way of original route now the manifold has been done.
Fit N75 (easier said than done as I'm not using original air system where it is usually mounted.) Plumb in boost hoses.
Hoping to get car moving under it's own steam next weekend without boost.
Full diags test (£40 locally) check all system go very soon. Full mapping/full boost (21 PSI) early in the new year fitted with bigger injectors.
For the people that don't know how much boost 21 PSI is. Standard 180 BHP Audi/SEAT runs at 7-9 PSI. Rover turbo is 11-12 PSI.
Should see in the region of 300 BHP/same torque safely.
umm wonder which the ones I just bought from Rimmer Bro's are. they looked identical and made sure taper was the same, but havent tried fitting one yet to a suspension arm.
I spoke to qpeng (the VW guys who I bought the ECU from.) They are going to put a more accurate map on the car so it runs a bit better and driveable.
So first step on the way. Sent ECU to have a diagnostic check to see what's going on. And a better map loaded.
In the mean time, I need to install bigger injectors, finish cloolant pipes for charge cooler and vaccum pipes. Before ECU comes back.
Install ECU and retest car. Call qpeng who will then come and visit me at my house (what a service!) to do a more accurate road map. Then rolling road for final part that day.
Looking at starting the tax for the car beginning of Feb.
John, are you sure the over-fuelling wasn't a result of an incorrect pressure being sensed by the MAP sensor, or an inverted signal? The level of over-fuelling your car had looked off the chart, and reminded me of two recent car issues:
1) the tps failed on my sister's car, and the ecu thought the throttle was 100% open, so fuelled accordingly.
2) my friend's emerald ecu had a corrupted voltage being fed to it from the map sensor, and the fuelling went off the wideband scale - a manifold pressure correction was being applied by the fuel charts.
Whilst your ECU is away, it's probably worth double checking the wiring, as I'd be really surprised if your ecu was meant to be fuelling like it was, rich map or not.
Not sure what you mean. I just connected the map sensor outlet to the bottom of the inlet (4mm nipple next to fuel pressure regulator nipple another 4mm nipple). Attached using some vacuum pipe that I used for the old rover ECU map sensor to manifold.
Chargecooler all finished. Just needs pipes securing (today).
Fit N75 (Today)
Fit vacuum pipes (still waiting for delivery).
Fitted bigger injectors.
Still need to sort out temp gauge. Have a few ideas for this but proving a bit more fidderly than expected. If I put a resistor in line to compensate between the VW coolant sensor and Rover gauge, I will be able to get it to sit right at half way. But will be inaccurate for the rest of the scale on the gauge. Not good.
So idea at the minute is getting the Rover temp sender unit in the cooling system. But has a very fine unusual thread. And I wanted it welded or something in one of the hose joiners. I'm going to call the silicon hose place where I got the hoses and joiners to see if they can do anything.
ECU has been sent away for a more accurate map to my setup. Then QP ENG will come down and map while car is on the road. Only final session will be on rolling road.
Got CPU back. Started off the key though idle does a bit of hunting. But once the revs are up a bit, very smooth ride. This is maybe because I need a 8 pin thottle body or just needs fine tuning/mapping.
But know I just need to test and drive for a couple of weeks. Keep checking fluids etc. Then call QPeng to do final mapping on the road with a final tune on the rolling road.
Even had a little positive bost while testing. Not too much though.
First impressions. It is going to make a good all round drive. Boost comes in about 2800-3k revs. No need for boost around town the way it drives. Very smooth up to boost level. In fact, driving normal you never reach boost.
Hi
From what I have read about the VAG system the throttle assembly ( 6 pin) is matched to the throttle control, in the engine, if you replace one you need to replace the other. Don't know if this helps you or not. I guess it may able able to be tweaked in the ECU?
At least its not a Toyota !!
Car sounds great. Cant wait to get mine on the road. but that is a long way of yet.
Cheers
Steve
It could be anything at the minute. Injectors, map, thottle body. Not sure. It don't smoke like it did now.
I sent the 3 pin throttle body with the ECU. But it does say in the ECU instructions, unless it's the 8 pin throttle body, it could have running problems. I'll see how it goes and go with the advice of QPENG.
John, from experience with the MBE ECU, 1.8t and a 3 pin throttle, you shouldn't have idle issues. The MBE tries to maintain idle by ignition timing, and thus if the throttle position sensor is telling the ecu the throttle is closed, it'll be trying to stablise the revs to a target (I think around 850 rpm). The only time my friend had idle issues with his similar setup, was when he developed a vacuum leak, and the ecu was trying to keep the revs down, when the engine had too much air available to it. In short, double check for vacuum leaks.
I really want to put my name down now. But a bit cautious at the minute during the shake down period.
Sod's law will predict I put my name down and the engine will blow or something!
Hopefully doing the airfield day at Woodbridge near the end of March. Should give the car enough shake down time and beating. If it survives, I will sign up that day (27/3/10).
