MadaboutKitcars

I see what your concerns are now rattler, it will be awkward to fill, but I will be able to remove the cap with ease. If it be comes to much of a problem, I may fit a remote reservoir to compensate, thanks for bringing this to my attention it never crossed my mind with the body, I was more interested in getting it to a moon buggy stage. Just shows how usefull another pair of eyes are, you can certainly get tunnel vision, that's why these sites are so good, as people have already faced these problems on their own builds

storage box and bulkhead

had the chance to get on the car this week, in between the showers. managed to box in the rear frame work to create a storage box
then I fitted my rear bulkhead with seat belt mounts for 4 point harnesses.
then I fastened all the centre transmission tunnel in and fastened on the panels made from ally tread plate.
connected my hand brake linkage up, and fitted the lever, which now gives me a working handbrake.
next step is to make a door for the storage box.

Very neat, will you put a gaiter around the gearbox part?

hi Garyh the answer to that is yes. I want to have some exposed ally panels, so hope to make a cover for the gear lever extension incorporating a gaiter, to match the hand brake lever gaiter. May be incorporate some drilled panel work like in the old racing cars.i will just have to remember that the gear linkage is attached to the gearbox, not the tunnel and needs to flex with the engine.

I like the thin aluminium strip you've used, instead of seeing a wide 'L' shape edge on top.

hi t/f looks good you will be driving it soon rattler

Wotcha matey,
Did you extend your gear leaver extension yourself? And if so can i ask how you've done it, as I'm on the scrounge for ideas atm

gear lever extension

hi ya, I extended the gear lever by cutting the original gear lever remote extension housing in half, along with the gear lever rod which runs underneath the cast ally housing. I then measured a piece of 25x25x3 mm box section to how long I needed to put the gear lever into a comfortable position . I then drilled the ally casting extension up through into the box section. I then counter sunk the holes to except counter sunk Allen headed bolts. I had to make the top holes in the box section bigger to accept a socket to allow me to secure the bolts.the only thing left then was to cut a piece(I think 15mm int dia, but not sure) tube to sleeve the original gear lever selector rod, which I drilled holes in, and then welded through to the bar. this was all done with the remote section removed from the gear box. it makes for a very study gear shift extension, although it does add height to the linkage, hope fully this will be covered with a nice console/gaiter . also to let you know my first attemp used just u channel, which seemed very strong and sturdy until fitted, but left the gear lever feeling like a pudding stick ( to much flexing/twisting ) hope this helps.

Hummm... Cheers matey. I hadn't thought about sleeving the change rod if I do cut it..

Hi thurcroft, if i may ask, (sorry if uv dealt wth this bfore) i just saw yr front springs, quite lower than standard. Did u cut or find a shorter stock spring or custom? Is the rear a 1/2 or full inch lowering block?
Thanks, tim.

hi front springs are lowered set bought from canley classics for £40.00, and I fitted a 1 inch lowering block to the rear with a spitfire rear spring, and extended diff caseing studs, again from canley classics. wheels sit better at rear, and it is supposed to lower the front by 1 inch, but it looks more than that. hope it will be o.k. once body etc. is all on. the front springs are listed on canleys web site as suitable for triumph vitesse, so I hope they sent me the right ones.

Thanks mate! Tossing up just building with standard and fixing as needed but much easier now if i know. Ive already taken a leaf out of the swing spit stack, but will probably need more. The fronts im concerned with stiff ness (too much) if i use vitesse lowered high rate springs designed for a significantly heavier car than the miglia 4pot.

further interior work and body trial

finished locker door on rear bulk head. fitted front bulk heads, and started top of bulkhead around pedal area. tried body on for reference to where I need to box in under dash area, may have to modify frame box section cross brace behind dash to central fit gauges.