Skip to main content

MadaboutKitcars

This is a read-only archive of the old Madabout Kitcars forum. New posts and replies are no longer possible, but every thread is still here to browse and read.

Preston Sammio

3 Apr 2012, 9:23am
Hmmmm :eusa_think:
Do you do a clear glass shell Gary?
3 Apr 2012, 9:44am
AndyP57 wrote:
And as all the suspension bits are already assembled, look forward to some rapid progress!


Rapid progress you say. Hmm, interesting concept but I can't see it working for me. :ballchain:
3 Apr 2012, 2:09pm
Very smart, Andy. Cover those axle stands! You don't want to chip that powder coat... keep up the good work.
3 Apr 2012, 2:17pm
The sun came out! :whoo:
So I got a little busy for an hour with these results:

and


So with the front done, I'll get some wheels on it and drop off the axle stands at that end.

Hope the rain holds off. I want it rolling with an engine in by the weekend so I can start fitting floors and frame.
3 Apr 2012, 2:29pm
Very nice! Just in time for the snow :)
4 Apr 2012, 1:26pm
With the addition of some brake pipes, the front has it's boots on and is on the ground!


So having started the back by fitting the Diff and spring:


I now have a problem that I hope somebody has covered before. How the :wacko: does the rear assembly fit! I've built them up as a unit:

and thought that if I hung the upper ends of the vertical link on the spring then jack it up so I can get the lower arm into the chassis bracket, it should go ok. What I have instead is a situation where I can't hang it on the spring due to the drive shaft/rotoflex getting in the way and the blessed inner bush (new bush) doesn't fit in the fork even if I could raise the spring high enough. How's about disconnecting the spring from its centre mount and letting it raise, then hoping to get it lowered enough once the two sides are bolted on? Any ideas guys?
4 Apr 2012, 1:31pm
Could you do what you say, then put a ratchet strap around diff and spring to pull it back down?
4 Apr 2012, 1:40pm
That might just work. The manual suggests a 36" length of 1" Hexagon bar with brackets welded on it to build a 'special tool'
4 Apr 2012, 1:51pm
Or some long threaded rod, and tighten down through the spring plate? Or make up a special tool!
And can you have a sweep up, afterwards...
4 Apr 2012, 2:10pm
I like the idea of a combination of both. Using a ratchet strap to bring it down and using the threaded rod as a 'safety' winding down as it gets closer. I've just got the top and bottom link attachments in with the spring hovering about 6" above the diff.
4 Apr 2012, 2:12pm
Trying to make do with what I've got around. Looking at the way the hex bar tool works, it relies on a bit of weight from the car above it which is not available in this case.
4 Apr 2012, 2:29pm
Andy, you might want to watch your brake pipes on full lock so they don't get caught in the front springs. As standard the bracket is mounted the other side of the spring turret.

Just a thought!
4 Apr 2012, 2:36pm
Are you following the Canley Schematics which look the same?
4 Apr 2012, 3:02pm
The bracket is on the back in Heralds but on the front on a Vitesse. I've been referring to the photos I took during the strip as well as the Triumph manuals.
4 Apr 2012, 3:10pm
Okay, whichever way works! My Vitesse 1600 Mk1 is on the back, so that's the only reason why I questioned it.
4 Apr 2012, 3:58pm
Rear spring panic over. Ratchet straps win! Thanks chaps :thumb:

4 Apr 2012, 4:02pm
Now thats, MAGIC. Carry on...
Those donuts are rock hard, aren't they.
4 Apr 2012, 4:03pm
MOT on Tuesday then ? Looking mighty fine Andy!
4 Apr 2012, 4:06pm
Four days at it over Easter! Yay:eusa_dance:

My aim is to have all Brake and fuel lines in, Engine in place with as much connecting done as I can. Maybe floors and bulkhead too.

Any news on the frame Gary?
4 Apr 2012, 6:35pm
How easy are the brake and fuel lines to do?

i have that pleasure to come on my Scimi / G46
5 Apr 2012, 12:51pm
Four wheels on my wagon....

The sun came out :eusa_clap:
And my office was too hot... :flame:

So I got cracking and fitted the brake lines. I cheated a bit by getting a pre-made set from Canleys but I had to make one up anyway as the one supplied was too short. (WCA, they aren't too hard to make up from scratch if you get a simple kit from machinemart or similar).
Fitted the radius arms and the shock conversion kits and all of a sudden I've got a car with all four boots on the ground :eusa_dance:



5 Apr 2012, 1:29pm
I love all the photos, makes it very easy to see what to do. I can see how mine will be, just in different colours. Keep 'em coming. Do you know how to align wheels etc... shims and all that?
5 Apr 2012, 2:12pm
I'm currently putting the same shims back where they came out and haven't adjusted the radius arms but when the time comes I'll be giving the set of manuals I have a really good skimming...
6 Apr 2012, 2:23pm
Despite waking this morning to the feeling that the battle of the Somme was going in in my innards :yuck:, I still made progress. Not as much as I'd hoped but I've dressed the engine, fitted the gearbox after changing its oil and drained the engine oil ready for a flush and top up when I can get it running.

Then fitted the power pack :thumb:


No more today though. I'm going to take it easy and hope for a better day tomorrow.
6 Apr 2012, 2:37pm
By the way, I got a new belt for the engine, part number GCB11088 which is correct according to both Rimmers and Canley's catalogues but it appears far too short. Any ideas guys? I seem to have all the default bits on the engine and even with the dynamo at it's closest to the engine, there is no chance of getting it on to the pulleys. The size on the pack is 10A1085C if that helps at all.