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It's the same copper pipe I used with the other engine which worked fine. Needed to adjust for the Rover engine as well with the same problem so keeping fingers crossed. Using a different clutch bracket for the slave so hoping it's just a minor adjustment at the pedal.
I'm also using a 6 paddle race clutch and plate now as well.
Yeah it has been a little while. Having some trouble with the clutch still. Found mgf slave bracket not up to the job coping with the helix cover plate. Under pressure, the slave would just bend the bracket! So renforced that.
Got some new pipe made up to replace the copper stuff I had. Flex stuff this time though. So will fit that today. Then adjust the pedal end. See what happens.
See if I can get the clutch to disengage. If not, I will need to rip the box off and see if I can see what's going on.
Bad news. See through the starter hole today. Slave is doing it's do now.
But still no release from clutch plate. Stuck solid against the flywheel. Even after loosening the cover plate bolt. So started the gearbox removal process. Hubs, driveshafts etc.
Corroded in place over time? Could you try driving it, by starting it in gear then driving it with the clutch pedal fully depressed, to see if you can shock the clutch free?
Tried that John. Tried shocking it in gear while on the ground, shocking it while on axel stands. Braking while clutch depressed and accelerating! Still no good stuck solid.
Really pissed off. Got gearbox off. Clean all surfaces including greasing the input shaft spine which I did not do before.
Could not get gearbox back on again in the car. Found out I need the K series dowels. So may have damagd gearbox bellhousing threads and possibly clutch plate.
Engine's coming out as well now. Not much to get it out now as gearbox is off anyway. Just take the pipes, exhausts, unplug loom off etc.
Can take a good look at thinigs then and line up with some dowels.
What is it. 1 step forward, 2 steps back!
Car is fighting hard! But I WILL win in the end!
Added to the fact I need new balljoints as the balljoint separator tool decided to tear the rubber. Waiting for Marlin to let me know what car there from.
Really pissed off. Got gearbox off. Clean all surfaces including greasing the input shaft spine which I did not do before.
Could not get gearbox back on again in the car. Found out I need the K series dowels. So may have damagd gearbox bellhousing threads and possibly clutch plate.
Engine's coming out as well now. Not much to get it out now as gearbox is off anyway. Just take the pipes, exhausts, unplug loom off etc.
Can take a good look at thinigs then and line up with some dowels.
What is it. 1 step forward, 2 steps back!
Car is fighting hard! But I WILL win in the end!
Added to the fact I need new balljoints as the balljoint separator tool decided to tear the rubber. Waiting for Marlin to let me know what car there from.
Which ball joint(s)? The lower arm balljoint is a cavalier item. I can't recall what the other standard ball joints are, but Steve C ought to know - pretty sure he tried to source some not too long ago.
They look just like the ones Marlin use on the Sporster and they are a Metro upper ball joint.
Part numbers are GS269 or QSJ1060S but go for a good quality make as there seem to be some badly made cheap ones on eBay of poor quality.
Engine and gearbox out. A lot easier to whip the gearbox off at will now.
Threads are all ok. Put standard rover turbo clutch on. Instantly disengages when rotating crank pulley and pressing pedal. New helix one don't looking through starter hole.
Were the bottom ones Metro in the end? I need to replace a few too, unfortunately the rubber perished before I even got to SVA :-(. Know the feeling of the car fiighting you. Some days its one step forwards two steps back. Finally sorted my clutch and have now found I have bent a gearchange cable already so left right is very sloppy and hard to engage,I am now looking for a better (stronger) solution.
I thought your car was at talon still David?
Need to be careful from what I've seen with the metro ball joints. From Peter's post and motor factors there are two different types of metro balljoints. Depending on year. Take yours to the motor factors to get the right taper and length of stud inthe baljoint is my advise. Not got that far yet.
OK thanks for the warning I have one replacement off the car I got a spare from Marlin early on just not 2 spares, will take that to my local factors.
Got my car back the other week, they worked really quickly on it, the solution they found for getting the clutch master cylinder at the right pivot point on the pedal is nothing short of ingenious very happy with it. It now drives and steers.
Getting the ride height right is gonna be tricky I gather its now designed for 3 inch's ride height, although I can maybe get 4 inch's. Think I may need to adjust springs all round, definately will on the front, but I always knew that was likely to be the case. Also toying with the thought of changing the wheels, but that will be a decision for after its on the road and I see how I like it.
3" ground clearance? That's absolutely bonkers for a road car.....
To have any chance of that being useable on UK roads you'll need rock hard suspension...and then the ride isn't compliant enough!
Have Marlin gone mad?
I'd say 4" is the absolute minimum you want.....but better still at 5-6" if you don't want to rip off front splitters, damage chassis rails, sumps...etc...
To be honest, when I asked Marlin what balljoints they were from, lets just say it was like pulling teeth. What ever reason they have.
All I got was they was Peugeot after a fight. Without Peter's post I would not have known they was Metro/MFG BOTTOM joints. Peugeot top joints confirmed.
With the clutch. Battling with that at the moment. As John and I found. MGF bracket is ok for standard. But needs beefing up if you upgrade clutch or engine. OK for standard power. No good with a race Helix clutch for a 220 turbo! i know as that's what I'm battling against at the moment
Slave goes all over the place if you need an up rated clutch.
I am gonna set it for 3 inch's this weekend then maybe increase to 4 inch's with different springs later on. The front has tonnes of range its the rear thats more limited 4.25 inches and the shock is maxed out.
One idea I have had, is currently I am running it with 15 inch wheels. I may decided to eventually go for larger wheels for the road which is where I am worried about all the speed bumps and pot holes around here. Hence increasing ride height, and keep the 15 inch ones for the track when a lower ride height may be advantageous. As I have a fully programmable dash, changing overall wheel diameter is not a major issue for speedo, just a quick hook up of the laptop to the car.
David, if you set the car with a 4" ride height, how much droop do you have front and rear?
If the front has as much travel as mine did originally, watch out of the ball joints necking on full droop. Mine was limited by the ball joints, not the travel of the dampers, which is bad news. I've solved it now, by buying different length front and rear dampers.
You might find fitting some polyurethane bumpstops is helpful - allow some movement using just the spring, then increase the effective spring rate of the suspension by compressing a bumpstop as the suspension continues into the bump stroke. Again this is what I've done on mine to give initial compliance, which firms up with travel.
My car is about 140mm at the front, 150mm at the rear, and even this is marginal on the road. I have 300 lb front springs, 350 lb rear springs, and although my suspension arms are different to yours, I would be surprised if the movement ratio is massively different.
Got gearbox off. Clean all surfaces including greasing the input shaft spine which I did not do before.
So may have damagd gearbox bellhousing threads and possibly clutch plate.
