MadaboutKitcars

Here my problem with the doors.

Unfortunately I made the door inner shuts flat where as they should have a inward slope.



This meant the hinge bottom edge had to be cut to fit.



As did the bottom of the drivers door.





In contrast the passengers door fits much better! Although the bottom of the hinge still had to be cut to clear the inner door shut.



The main time and effort will go into getting to door to function properly and get a reasonable shut line.

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Got to play with the front suspension today.

This was the standard set-up.



This is the first effort which I thought was about right.



I was going to leave it at this height but found I couldn't get my ramp jack out as the ground clearance between chassis and floor was only 50mm !!!

After some effort I ended up with this.



I am left with a ground clearance of around 70mm which will have to do for now.

This beasty is now running and moving under it's own power eace:

The question now is what to do with it?
I have always fancied building a "drop tank racer" but getting hold of a suitable tank is difficult now-a-days.

foam and fiberglass come to mind.

The "D" type replica now has a lovely bright blue spark but fuelling issues have now appeared.

I think it's because the carbs are at the wrong angle to the manifold.



If you look closely the "flat edge" of the float chamber is angled back about 15 degrees.
I think this angle is preventing to floats from doing their job of shutting off the fuel. When I turn on the ignition I get fuel pissing-out of the carbs like six water pistols which is quite funny to see but dangerous in the workshop!!

The regulator I have on the fuel pump is turned right down but this makes no difference.

I think I am going to have to remake the inlet manifold !!!

The car now has a new starter motor, new battery and a lovely bright blue spark but fuelling issues have now appeared.

I think it's because the carbs are at the wrong angle to the manifold.



If you look closely the "flat edge" of the float chamber is angled back about 15 degrees.
I think this angle is preventing to floats from doing their job of shutting off the fuel. When I turn on the ignition I get fuel pissing-out of the carbs like six water pistols which is quite funny to see but dangerous in the workshop area !!

The regulator I have on the fuel pump is turned right down but this makes no difference.

I am going to have to remake the inlet manifold

Re-made the inlet manifold using the first part of the old manifold and added silicon tube to make up the rest.



This has now altered the angle the cabs sit at.



I also adjusted the float height on all carbs.
Thankfully this stopped the water pistol effect and I could now try and start the car.

On turning the key the engine spins over but not at a good speed.
I suspected the battery so a new battery was purchased. This helped but I had to bite-the-bullet and get a new starter motor so not much change out of £250!!!





The motor now spins over nicely with a nice blue spark and after much effort I finally got the engine to run but it would only run at idle speed and run very lumpy.
When I tried to open the throttle it just coughed and spluttered.

As the ignition timing was about right I think it's a fuel issue so on checking the jets I found the idle jets are 12.5 and main jet are 137.5

Idle jets range from 10 to 60 so I went for a mid range jets at 35.
Main jet range from 10 to 160 so I went for the largest jets at 160.
All should be here next week.
Again not much change from £70 so a very expensive few days.

Also I have now fitted an alternator in the tight spot between the engine and suspension turret and attempted to completed the cooling system.
I say attempted because the cooling system appeared quite confusing with several strangely placed take off points so I just took an educated guess at where I thought the pipes should run and have hopefully got it some where near right.



Still hopping the drive this on or before the 21st of the month!

I have Mikuni carbs on some of my Triumph motorcycles. Very hard to set up as they are known to wear out the slides. Triumph swapped to Kliens but they are much more expensive 2nd hand.

Picked up another future project this week.








It looks like it has Ford Escort Mk11 running gear, engine is missing but the chassis appears factory made so it'll do for some thing.

That is a Dutton Phaeton Series 3 - I’m sure you already knew that. I built one in the early 1980s. They are simple things. You are correct, it uses Escort Mk1 or 2 parts. The front suspension uses the strut cut down, Austin Maxi ball joints, Dutton’s own upper wishbones and spring/damper units.
I will be watching this project with interest.

Got yet another project !!



GTM Rossa K3, powered by a standard "K" series 1.4

This one is registered correctly and complete but unused for several years.
I think I'll just give is a quick once over, sort things out, MOT it and pass it on.

Any one interested !!

Been playing with the 3D printer again.

Before.



After.



At the moment I'v left it red as the car's going to be red but that might change.

I'v spent many hours trying to get this jaguar engine to run on the bike carbs set-up but failed.
No matter what I do or try I just can't seem to make any progress
The engine will start and run but nothing like it should.

I'v now had a re-think on the whole system.
I modified a distributor from a BMW which turns the correct way and has a mechanical advance.



I have removed the bike carbs and replaced them with a home-made manifold set-up using a pair of CD175 carbs that I had lying around the workshop.



The engine now starts off the key and runs but much better!!
The engine will run reasonably well and will rev but only if the choke is 1/2 way out.
As I'v stripped checked and cleaned the carbs, I now think this is down to wrong jets as I think these CD175 carbs where originally fitted to a Triumph TR4 engine.

It's not yet perfect but I now feel like I'm making progress in the right direction.

Still haven't sorted the carbs but I did find a pair of bonnet louver on E-Bay.





Not perfect but at £40 the pair I'm pleased.

I finally got around to fitting the petrol filler in the moulded hump as per the original.





I simply routed two lengths of 50mm stainless steel pipe which were plumped to the original Scimitar tank inlet using three 90% silicone bends.





The hatch that cover this rear end will now need to be trimmed to fit.
I was going to bond the cover on permanently, fill and smooth out the gaps around it but now think it will look better and be more practicable if it's removable as per the original "D" type.

Beware Blowback!

My schoolboy error.

Looking good!

Regards, Mick

Supporting Evidence

This is the extended filler neck before fitting the body - tubes of Sikaflex at the ready.



and with the body on but 'pre-fin'.



Regards, Mick

Looking good Micky1Mo - just sent you a private message about this project

With that in mind I think my first fill at the pumps will be done with a little caution.

Although the rear "hatch" serves no purpose I wanted to keep it accessible for maintenance issues so I fixed 2 x 10m treaded bolts to the rear of the chassis.

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I stuck some masking tape inside the rear hatch cover roughly where the bolt should protrude.

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I then held the hatch firmly in the appropriate position so the bolt ends would leave a mark on the masking tape showing where to drill the holes.






Holes drilled I put a pair of holding nuts on the inside so the hatch would rest against them and a pair of external nuts fixing the hatch in place.



With a little adjustment it should fit reasonably well, the holding nuts will disappear under or around the rear number plate but it can be remove easily for access.


nut

I'm still having problem getting this car running without spending a fortune on carbs and manifold.

So I'v decided to try a very simple approach.

I'll use the original intake manifold.
Block off all unwanted holes.
Fabricate a mounting for a twin choke weber carburettor from a 3lt engine.
Remove the throttle body and bolt the carburettor and mounting in it's place.

The first attempt.



I soon realized the carburettor was in the wrong position so made another one.



I'll bolt it on the manifold in the morning, hopefully it'll fit OK..

Looking good
Do you plan to glass in a couple of washers to the hatch (inside and outside), once you are happy with the fit, to spread the load and give you a flat, upright face for the bolts to sit against, just the right size for the threaded bar?

K

That's the plan, I was going to finish with a pair of chrome dome nuts on the outside.

This is what I was trying to achieve with the manifold.



As simple salutation costing less than £100 to complete but, it's air tight and hopefully it'll run reasonable well.

Worth a try ! You might find the outer cylinders run a bit weak as the mixture has to travel a long way from the carb. The old carb Essex V6 was fitted with a deflector plate in the manifold to encourage the mixture to flow to the outer ports.