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If the brake pads have worn the brake fluid will be low. As soon as you fit the new pads the brake fluid will go back to normal level.
I tend to look at the brake fluid level to guage how worn the pads are without scrabbling under the car.
It looks like the front brake pads are iffy, as suggested. The brake fluid level is fine. The car came with a bunch of repair and maintenance invoices, and it looks like the pads front and rear have been replaced in the past, but not for some time.
I aim to do some work on the car this week - but this is only maintenance type stuff, not to do with the rebuild. Once the fuel pipework comes in, I will commence trial fitting the pieces, so expect a request for more advice.
Now I have all of the bits except the petrol resistant sealant, that should arrive in the next couple of days. The rivnut tool arrived today.
I also ordered a pair of black defrost vents (the little triangular ones on the top near the quarterlights). They are really difficult to find. As my interior trim is tan, and I want the dash to be black, I had to find these vents to fit into the new dash front piece that Chris is going to make for me very soon.
I decided to buy a black dashboard as my interior is babypoo beige. £75 plus delivery off fleabay. Hopefully I can get something similar for mine when i remove it. I just need chris to make my new dash front so i can crack on.
The delivery driver thought it must be a mummy.
Here are pics of the top and bottom for anyone thinking of doing something on their dash.
Getting this means that I can paint the new front instead of covering it if I want to.
My consul is brushed aluminium, so if I get Rover 75 seats, I could use the leather off the rear seats to re-trim the consul sides.
I will likely replace the door cards with black (if i want arm rests) and could use the rear seats as per above to re-trim the insert panels on the door cards if need be. It give me wider choice on parts sourcing, and hopefully better prices.
I am great at planning ......... I will soon have to actually do something.
The front brakes and discs on the Z3 are now sorted. I have been slow to get around to identifying the battery drain issue, though it isn't the boot light as I left the bulb out after last time. It happened again whilst i was away for last week. I will have to get one of the solar charges that was suggested previously as well.
I have received the coil overs (I have the spacers already), and am waiting for delivery of the Calibre Vintage wheels (today - after shenanigans with Parcelforce) so after Christmas I can get the tyres fitted, then get them down to Chris. The panels can then be modified to suit. I'll get the coil overs fitted to the front before taking the car down to be re-panelled.
Chris has begun the work to covert the Frari type dash to my re-design, not a lot to show at present. Panelwork for the new buck should commence in January. More to come then.
Dash looks interesting, retro but making an easier job by keeping the central binnacle. You could always get an alloy/stainless plate laser cut to mask any instruments that you don't need and maybe dial covers.
Worth considering round eyeball vents rather than the modern square plastic vents (sorry Chris)
I spoke to Chris and we are agreed that using the z3 vents in the dash is clumsy, and will go for Scimitar round ones instead. The cut and shut of panels and subsequent remodelling was scheduled for sometime in January, and this will commence on time. The top is tied to the 275 windows rework per Welsh Kiwi. Then that needs to be melded with a different rear.
I have the wheels and tyres so that Chris can tailor the panels to suit. Gone for the Calibre ones per Andy's build. This is an everyday car and think they will be more practical. I have got the adjustable coil overs to fit also.
Hopefully another update at the end of the month, and during February, some pics of the buck in progress.
My new shed is up and about ready - just needs weather treatment and the door put on. Then I can fill it with garage junk and free up space for a workshop area in the garage, next to the car port. Unbelievably, this project is kicking into gear. Hooray.
When I said the shed was about ready......
It said in the instructions that you need to spend as long treating it as you do building it. It is one of these log cabin types, with more substantial boards than your regular shed. I prepared the base before Christmas, and did the assembly last weekend. 2 hours to sort the parts and read instructions, 6 man hours to put the thing up. But it took 4 hours more to put the floor in and i have spent about the total of that lot treating with insecticide and weather treatment. Just got to glue the membrane on the roof over the weekend. It will be worth it though, as i can then use the car port and part of the garage as a workshop. Paul, I have renewed admiration for your weather dodging build after only a week of faffing on with the shed.
Very nice barber I can see why! I am sure though the z3 dimensions and chris’s Magic will bring you what you desire!
How’s your donor going? Mine is starting to give me a few niggles, rear shock mounts blew the other day so I am getting plenty of mech time sorting things out! Cheers.
A few niggles also. Still not resolved the power drain. I thought I had, so didn't go through the whole diagnostic process. I plan to check all the fuses for draw today. It has been parked outside, and the rag top is struggling a bit. I plan to swap out the suspension for coil overs next week. I have them ready. I hope to collect my dash next week, and drop the wheels off for Chris.
We'll have to be patient re the reworked top. I'd rather it was right, and a bit late than the alternative.
A few niggles also. Still not resolved the power drain. I thought I had, so didn't go through the whole diagnostic process. I plan to check all the fuses for draw today. It has been parked outside, and the rag top is struggling a bit. I plan to swap out the suspension for coil overs next week. I have them ready. I hope to collect my dash next week, and drop the wheels off for Chris.
We'll have to be patient re the reworked top. I'd rather it was right, and a bit late than the alternative.
Definitely worth the wait I agree. Was in contact with Chris today so hoping a few days of work will spurn some progress. On the drain issue have you checked, changed the battery? I chased a drain for weeks going for what was the “google search” likelihood’s only to find out the battery had been abused and wouldnt hold a charge for more than a few days. A good CCA test may be worth it if not already checked. Good luck!
Simpson stuff is fantastic quality but definitely not Tribute prices....interesting how the model development has almost been running parallel with the SWB and now Zagato
Smash, I think that they read this forum an pick up levels of interest from over there. ;-) There were quite a few positive comments on the Zagmad thread when he had a good basis on the MX5.
As stated previously, the Zagmad model sparked my interest, along with a whole load of other Zagato marque designs. I can say for definite that the Zagato idea was derived completely separately from both Simpson, and the Evanta, which I didn't see until Gary posted it on this thread. (It is lovely too).
I like the Simpson products having has an Italia kit, superb quality. But after all the effort he has made on his Zagato, the front windscreen is appalling, it just looks so wrong against the shallow side windows.
Can't wait to see the Tribute version in soft top form as the problem won't exist.
And why oh why would you base it on an MX5 when there are so many Z3's (or Z4's)available?
The Z4 has a very high section between the rear window and the boot lid. This is part of the shell so cannot be removed. On the coupe Zagato it wouldn't be a problem but I don't think there is an attractive workaround on the convertible.
Plenty of Z3's still available at reasonable prices.
I think a Z3 Zagato convertible on a Z3 will be a real winner.
If it uses the original doors without resorting to door skin panels it will make it much easier and cheaper to build. You can always weld a plate over the existing door handle and fit a Mini style handle or live with the existing door handle.
