MadaboutKitcars

I bled the clutch today it wont work? it's all new but won't disengage $#it

The trials and tribulations of kit car ownership keep up the good work you'll get there in the end.

Now where have I heard that before........... :-)

hmmmm I wonder who that was hoo!

Well I still can't get the clutch to disengage so I'll have to take it out but I have to do it the hard way as the bell housing won't go back past the new frame! engine out bl@@dy ell

Been there. I rebuilt a Lotus Seven Series 1 with a Ford crossflow engine and gearbox. The clutch hydraulics were working- the slave arm was moving the right amount but not disengaging. Turns out the D-spacer between the arm and the thrust bearing carrier had come adrift.

probably something similar going on here I've got pressure and the lever arm is moving but nothing happens???????

If it's some time since it was fitted, it's more than likely that the driven plate is stuck to the flywheel. Wedge the pedal down with a long stick (in neutral!) and leave the beast ticking over. Once the heat gets to the flywheel it'll free itself. Maybe.

Regards, Mick

Though it may sound painfull, one trick is to let the car warm up, as Mick said above, and then just slam the gear lever into third - that got the clutch freed on my Triumph GT6 after it had been standing for a year and a half.

My suggestion- at your own risk of course- is to warm the engine in neutral then restart it in 1st gear. With the car idling down the road- stamp on the clutch and brake pedals simultaneously. Does need the space to do it though.

Thanks gents all good suggestions but I haven't got the engine running yet (next job methinks) the pedal goes about half way down then stops solid so may be a pressure plate problem??I also will need to get the brakes working

I had that symptom on my (Vitesse) clutch the last time I refitted the engine.

Mine was just excess pressure in the hydraulic system holding the clutch plate half way disengaged. Try putting the car in gear and see if it still rolls. If it does (or even if it doesn't, what've you got to lose?) - put a cloth over the outlet pipe on the clutch master cylinder and momentarily loosen the securing nut. Mine gave a spurt of fluid accompanied by a 'clunk' as the clutch disengaged. It's been fine ever since. Just a thought.

Got it sorted today a friend came over to help me remove the engine as I was explaining the problem he jumped in the car and tried the clutch he was pumping the pedal very hard there was a big clunk ant the clutch was working. You have to take into account I am a 11 1/2 stone weakling and he is a big 17 stone lump who says size don't matter?? we think the pressure plate may have been jammed previously it had been sitting on a shelf in the garage for a few years. I can now carry on prepping the engine for its first start-up.

Awesome news, bet you're relieved Deggsy!

Too right I am the amount of work, time and money saved is huge I was so relieved I made him a cuppa.

Great news on the clutch.

My car currently has a clutch pedal that will not move either, perhaps I need a 17 stone mate to pop round.

Good luck with the engine start, that is also something I will be attempting shortly myself.

So fingers crossed all round, Paul.

Thanks for that. I am away for the next ten days then I will be pulling out all the stops to get it running. crossed toes as well

I can volounteer Paul
rofl

nothing much happening at the mo. been on hols but managed to call in to see Chris at tribute to collect my umps (head fairings)

maybe I'll have to call it Bactrianus

Hmmm perhaps I should paint it brown????

Been playing with the wiring today connected a battery and um not a lot working I have hazards but no indicators side lights but no reversing lights the heater works backwards and blows a fuse every time the overdrive solenoid is not working no brake lights the list goes on and on ho hum this may take some time

Know the feeling Deggsy, been there got the T shirt..............

Electricity follows basic rules. It is simple.

Apparently...

Check everything is earthed (my first home build fire)

Where ever possible separate the functions of wires so you can identify single faults.

There is loads of advice out there that never seems to help until after the event. I have learned to read it twice beforehand.

Doesn't always work but can help.

Good luck

WCA is right
Although im still rewiring my buggy
It sounds as if you need to check the earth cables first.
Bad earths lead to all sorts of mysterious goings on as the circuit tries to find alternative routes.
Corrosion or even that nice paint protecting everything is to blame.

Thanks for the advice gents I have managed to get most of the circuits working except for the indicators (new relay ordered) the overdrive will need to be tested on the road and the 2 speed heater which has got me stumped it's stopped blowing fuses now but cones on with the ignition on single speed. single speed in the first position full speed in the second position any ideas?

Sounds to me like the wire for the Switch OFF is incorrect.

I remember rewiring the lights in the last house where there were multiple light switches, each with multiple switches controlling three lights in two rooms. I carefully labelled the wires as I diconnected them:
Hole 1 = Black
Hole 2 = 2xRed
Hole 3 = 2x Black
Hole 4 = Earth
Hole 5 = blank
Hole 6 = red
...

Great until I came to rewire them and had to guess which black went into which hole. While upside down under the floor boards with a torch in my mouth trying to ask my wife to switch the lights on in the correct order and tell me which bulbs lit up...

Freakin nightmare


Anyway - lets try and help

Is this correct?
Ignition off = Heater Off
Ignition on, switch on 0 = Heater on 1
Ignition on, switch on 1 = Heater on 1
Ignition on, switch on 2 = Heater on 2

What colour wires have you got to play with?
What connectors have you got to stick the wires to?
What colours to which connectors at the moment?

yes that's what's happening a picture tells a thousand words.

[IMG][/IMG]

There are two wires from the switch
green/yellow pos 1
green pos 2

power is green to the bottom of the motor

three wires from the heater black earth
green/yellow green/grey
red wire from the top of the motor to connector green/yellow from heater and motor
green 2 from switch to green/grey heater.
It should work but wont?? maybe I've got a doggy switch?