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You can spend a small fortune doing a Daytona (I'm going to be attempting one on a TVR wedge)
Original 2nd hand front indicators can set you back £1k on their own, Similar for a set of original rear lights. Interior cost is horrendous if you go down the replica route.
Apparently though with this ebay SRV12 you only need a rotten Jag a few spare weekends, bish bash bosh and it's done
That's why your skills can come in handy when building a replica. Apart from a few items you can replicate most of the parts you need or find parts from other cars that are similar but cheap. EG the wrap around indicator lenses from an SD1, lots of choice for round rear lights from around £30 each. Seats can be found from various sports cars that will do the job. Look at the Tribute range , the Rover seats are a good example in Nubodi 250 demo car.
If you are building a Daytona around a TVR Wedge then you won't be going for a 100% replica anyway.
I was speaking of the TR-7 interior only. Seats, etc.
My Daytona bodykit is a Robin Hood so was originally made for the TR7. Mine came with a stripped back TR7 convertible but I decided not to use it, too far gone and felt the TVR 350i was a better base (pretty close wheelbase and track plus no IVA to worry about). I kept the TR7 windscreen, frame, half bulkhead, door surrounds and doors though as these are pretty close to the original Daytona. It also came with Daytona style recovered TR7 seats but these were not really the look I was after. Will have to find or make a dashboard mould, door cards etc and will try and make moulds for the front indicators and maybe the rear lights. Lots of work to get the 'look' of the Daytona which is what I want even if it is a TVR underneath.
JG,
I understand. I was thinking of the E-Bay SRV-12.
As you say, much of the TR-7 could be used as they are very close.
I had a friend in North Carolina that developed a Daytona Coupe using a NASCAR shop to fabricate the chassis. It used Ford Thunderbird IRS and Diff, original glass and 7 liter Ford V8.
I drove it around Charlotte Motor Speedway. Maxed out at 169MPH. Handled well too. He did use many TR-7 interior parts.
Never made a go at it and closed his business. This in the 1990's.
Mc Burnie was the American kit that was used in maimi vice.
If you look at it you can see that its more of a tribute than a replica.
The lines are inspired by the Ferrari and most of the viewing public thought that's what a 365gts looked like.
Ferrari never called it a Daytona but the name stuck
I run that website for the club. There is a healthy following of these cars worldwide. I have two of my own, both RS engineering. One is a V12 ordered from the factory by Martin Lilley (£25000 in 1978!!!) with every option. Martin was the owner of TVR at the time (not sure what that says about TVR's). The other was the factory demonstrator TR7 convertible based car which was on all the brochures. I bought MK's (owner of this website) old seats from him as mine were trashed.
A Southern Roadcraft one (not one of the best) made £46000 at auction recently!
I gave Chris one of the cars to copy from for a few months but he didn't get the time. Hopefully this thread may give him the incentive to make one in the future. The offers still there.
Was RS Engineering , Richard Stewart prior to the Robin Hood brand name ?
All seems a long time ago , I didn't think they went back as far as 78 though.
I was involved in a big way with the Robin Hood Owners Club and Register (RHOCAR) back in the 90's , they were all S7 owners though , I don't remember any Daytona owners back then. The club was a huge success back then with membership in the thousands !
Was RS Engineering , Richard Stewart prior to the Robin Hood brand name ?
All seems a long time ago , I didn't think they went back as far as 78 though.
I was involved in a big way with the Robin Hood Owners Club and Register (RHOCAR) back in the 90's , they were all S7 owners though , I don't remember any Daytona owners back then. The club was a huge success back then with membership in the thousands !
And so it deserved to be, going back to some basics and making a fun car with reasonable performance available to a whole new tranche of enthusiasts.
£1850 for the Daytona on EBay, lets hope it was Chris who bought it!
I was very tempted but it was just too much work for me, however a quick build on a Z3 will be perfect. I'm aiming for a 250SWB, the 275 and a Daytona to finish the set.
Come on Chris, pull your finger out and stop slacking
£1850 for the Daytona on EBay, lets hope it was Chris who bought it!
I was very tempted but it was just too much work for me, however a quick build on a Z3 will be perfect. I'm aiming for a 250SWB, the 275 and a Daytona to finish the set.
Come on Chris, pull your finger out and stop slacking
£1850 for the Daytona on EBay, lets hope it was Chris who bought it!
I was very tempted but it was just too much work for me, however a quick build on a Z3 will be perfect. I'm aiming for a 250SWB, the 275 and a Daytona to finish the set.
Come on Chris, pull your finger out and stop slacking
£1850 was a pretty good buy, hard to tell condition from the pics but body looked a bit rough and chassis looked rusty but I've seen these on ebay for £5k before so not a bad price at all. Would have liked it myself but already committed to my TVRarri :eusa_shiftywill do a build thread when I have made some progress)
I've been on holiday in Spain for a month so no progress. I'm back for two weeks so hope to be able to sort out the fuel filler an a good route for the filler cap.
I also need to sort out a radiator fan for the air con as the existing fan is too thick. I thought I had found a cheap one on EBay but it is the same one that Scottie said was not good enough for his mini bug van so probably won't be good enough for the z3. I might have to bite the bullet and buy a more expensive Spaal fan.
I'm not convinced about the alloy strip that is used to hide the gap on top of the doors. I'm thinking that I may try the same trick as I used on the leading edge of the door to get rid of the gap and use some standard rubber window seal. The only ones I can find come from Woolies but arn't long enough so am still looking. If I can pull this off I'm intending to use the alloy door strips as sill strips. They are long enough to do each side without a join and allow the door and bonnet to open. It does hide the joins perfectly.
The other thing I need to sort out are the door skins, at the moment they are held on with self tappers but Chris gave me some threaded inserts that clip to the skins so they can be bolted on which will be much more secure.
I've been asking Chris to do a Daytona but he is not keen and says he is not going to do one. I've asked nicely and begged to no avail. I think my best bet now is blackmail. SO, if anyone has something on Chris please let me know!
Just think, Kit options of
250SWB
250GTO
275
and a Daytona.
will do a build thread when I have made some progress)