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Do you have a body repair specialist store nearby Scottie? I took a trip to my local one in Hull, they gave good advice and got an industrial size tin of filler for the same price as Halfords charge you for a small tin.
I drove down to exeter to see it. The photos don't do it justice. The proportions are spot on. There are a few little details to finish which hopefully Chris is working on at the moment. I hope to pick it up when I get back from the States at the end of next week.
Still need to sort out some proper wire wheels. 2 of the 4 I bought have got worn spindles so need replacing. Watching a set on ebay at the moment but if anyone has some 15" wires with a 42mm hub (not jaguar basically) then give me a shout.
WCA
I have a set (4) second hand 15" wire wheels I was about to put on e-bay. They are in varying condition and would certainty need blasting/powder coating.
Could someone please give me some advice on the following:
I posted this text earlier, but so far had no replies
Quote:
One last thing, I've been doing my repairing of cracks,bonding of brackets etc with Isopon P40 Paste from Halfords at about 12 quid for only
600 grams.
I saw some advice for "Bonding paste" 5K for £20 or so.
Do I go for this? and is it as strong as the P40 stuff, it sure as hell is a lot cheaper.
will soon be getting to the bonding body- to- car stage and this stuff sounds good, is it?
Unquote
This is much more cost effective and exactly the same quality as P40:
There are a few little details to finish which hopefully Chris is working on at the moment. I hope to pick it up when I get back from the States at the end of next week.
Thank you Fatbloke and Tribute for the advice which I will follow up.
Today was a low for me, I felt I was not doing enough work, I had lost direction, the weather was against me, I was never going to get this car done etc etc. I expect you chaps have all been through this, but it was new to me.
Then a friend came to see me and suggested we put the body on the car.
The car by the way, even in its shit state, starts and drives.
Anyway it only took 10 minutes, and and JC! what a happy MF was I!!!
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This'll put a smile on ya face!
didn't have that many clamps, and went out and bought extra ones just for this one job!
I bet I will never ever use them all again, at least not in one go.
As I said to (I think it was Paul) three years ago I had an unfortunate bust up with the other half and she had to go, I live in my house with my 14 year old son, joy of joys! Its like a second childhood! I can do what I want, bash holes in walls, build sheds where I want, no nagging or hassle!!
I am much more relaxed and happy now.
Of course that's not the answer for most people, but it worked for me.
Thank you so much for the positive comments, at first I though I was being a bit pedantic and over the top on some things, but after some thought I knew exactly what I wanted and decided to go for it.
Judging by all the comments, it seems to please a lot of people including myself.
So to all of you undecided guys out there :
GO FOR IT!!
Redratbike, forgot to answer your main question, am I full time on it?
Kind of yes and no,
I try to do something on it each and every day, the other day it was a one hour job making two little flared 10 mm pipes (3 inches long) and sticking them one at each side in the boot lid rain channel as drain holes.
Another day I may (and have) get carried away and work almost none stop ( no other half to get in the way, another positive!) for around 11 or twelve hours, but when I do that I know I've done too much, and it takes it out of me physically. I become so focused,I don't stop to eat or drink
until I fell shitty due to low blood sugar levels. I know all of this is wrong
but that,s how it is with me. So if there are others who can identify with this, You are not alone!!
Big milestone Scottie, a very motivating stage as I recall.
Do you really need to lower it any more? Don't get me wrong, I'm a big fan of slammed cars and my original setup was 95mm cut off the front springs and a 90mm lowering block under the rear leaf spring on the Vitesse chassis.
The experience of actually trying to drive it on British roads was a nightmare of fretting over ground clearance though, and not just over speed bumps. The exhaust was actually grounding on gentle crests and dips.
I've now changed the settings so that I've only lowered the back 15mm (but removed six out of the ten leaves from the spring) and cut 35mm off the front springs (albeit softer, 150lb Spitfire springs and with a heavy duty arb fitted). The resulting setup hasn't spoiled the looks but has transformed the ride and handling, and even given it just enough ground clearance, making it possible to drive it a lot quicker with confidence.
That's just my two new pennies worth gained from the experience of running a similar car, I'm not trying to tell you how to build your car
Is the red Rover in one of the pics patiently waiting to give up its motor for your XKSS?
I love my straight six, but if I were to build a road/track car I could be tempted to go down the modern engine route. Especially after coming across this modified VVC powered Spitfire -
Obviously there are some compromises with this conversion, like the £3,000+ it cost to convert and the interesting siting of the brake fluid resovoir. At least you'll see if you've lost your brakes before the pedal goes to the floor...
Just read your latest update, I lost almost a stone working on mine from dawn til dark while my wife was out earning a crust last winter. But then I kind of needed to lose it
Mr Towed,
I've had that Spit vid on my pc for ages and I still hit your link and watched it again.
I thought that thing on the dash was the fuel filter?
Also wondered why it was there?
I thought it wobbled about too much to be viscous brake fluid?
I had a Robin Hood couple of years back and the lowest point underneath was around 2.5 inches, it hit the rear lower suspension regularly and wore it away so much I had to weld it back to build it up. I welded two steel skids, one each side to help it "slide" when it touched the road, that worked quite well.
The "lowering it 2 " more " bit was obviously a FAILED attempt at humour!!
That Rover is my every day wheels and I have another ( in fact I have two) Rover engines with turbos lying around
[IMG][/IMG]Mister Towed,
I was interested in what you put about you lowering, and how you approached it. quite brave stripping the spring and all!
My donar when stripped (and light) had crappy looking positive camber, and was too high.
I took the spring out de [IMG][/IMG]rusted, cleaned and painted it, put it back in, then it occurred to me I should have dumped a 1 inch lowering block in there at the same time!
I was basically too lazy to take it out and do it again, so I took both vertical links out, sandblasted them drilled two extra holes about 1.8 inches lower down, complete with welded in washers, which had the affect of bringing the spring eye down. I was very pleased with the result.
Scottie
i have a rover T16 engine in an 2003 MGZR
with a T28 pulsar turbo and that is pushing around 220-230bhp
i couldnt imagine that engine in your lightweight body
mind you, you would have to stock up on a few diffs!!!
post me some pics, it sound great, I've always been a T16 fan.
Greatly under rated engine, some say better than cosworth.
There is a company on the internet that takes one down the strip and it produces 900 BHP
Can't imagine that power in a Rover 25!!
Listen in all you “attention to detail” freaks! You are gonna LOVE this one! It’ll have you grabbing a box of tissues and heading towards the little room!
With my Morris Minor rear lights modded to fit the car, I still needed rear Indicators. The XKSS used XK140 lights which had indicators built in. Apart from the fact that XK 140 lights cost £400 a set, I wasn’t even sure they would fit, so that option was out.
I bought the usual “tit” orange type indicators, but really did not want to Disfigure the car with them, so I decided to make my own.
Hmmmmmmmmm!
I came up with the following,
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