MadaboutKitcars

Lots and lots of penetrating oil - allow to soak or a day or two, Try a very gentle attempt to undo then lots and lots of penetrating oil and leave for a few days. Try a very gentle attempt to undo. (You get the idea)

If no luck dry the area thoroughly and taking all necessary precautions (bucket of water, sand, fire extinguisher, helper to keep an eye on things etc) carefully apply gentle heat to the area of the bolt. Then carefully try to undo. A few very light taps of (a very light) hammer might help.

If no luck proceed to drill out and use an extractor as Mr Towed above.

Chassis almost finished and the passenger suspension stripped and prepped for new bushings.

Friend helped me out

A bit of progress. The engine is now closed. The chassis has it's chassis paint covering the POR14. The suspension bushes have p155ed me right off!

https://sites.google.com/site/g46wca/2012-03-25

Good progress WCA.

Suspension bushes always a challenge - getting the metal bit out ok with a hacksaw but have had to burn out the rubber 'outers' on other car in the past...

Re the carb. Did you have the fuel spigot 'tapped' to stop the spigot loosening off? Some carbs had a problem with this but not all. Wondered if you'd thought about this while you easy had access?

Will check my spigot. The carb is off the engine I got from Charman.tech as the one off my engine was knackered.

Is that my Spigot?
How can I tell if it is tapped?
How can I tap it if it isn't?

Thanks

From my understanding it was the earlier carbs that were affected, the RSSOC website has details of the mod..

I haven't done mine yet. QRG at Kettering checked it and said it was ok - but I might do it just for peace of mind. Would hate to see the thing suddenly go up in flames for the sake of a fairly simple mod....that would ruin my day.

Edit.

Sorry just noticed your comments under the photo. Yes that's the spigot but that's a different carb to mine although I guess any spigot of dissimilar metal to the carb could be a risk. The problem carb was the 38DGAS, but also the 40DFA could be concerned too

Here's a link on RSSOC - it's on the SE5 Forum under 'What caused some fires in early SE5's', posted Wed 8 Feb, by 'landsurveyor'.

I thought I would do a quick update as I haven’t posted anything on this thread for a while. Unfortunately I have lost the cable that connects my phone to the laptop so I will be trying another way to get photos posted soon. Anyway, after the initial reasonable progress things have slowed down. Partly because I have been busy creating and building the Southampton Bike Park but mainly because I ran out of money for the next few bits I need: brake lines, wiring loom and the body. While waiting to become rich I have managed a few bits and bobs.
I decided to strip the rear drum brakes to get them ready for when I have the brake pipes and was in for a bit of a surprise. The passenger side was a bit knackered but the driver’s side was missing altogether. I am now looking for new brakes for the rear but think the bloke I bought the car from can help me out as I will explain later.

I then moved to the front brakes and discovered the pistons were seized. A quick Google later and I knew that I simply placed the air compressor nozzle over the brake pipe fitting and the pistons would slide out. Yeah right! If you ever do this, make sure you put a piece of wood where the brake disc would be. Mine went seized, seized, seized, BANG as one piston came free. I then had to clamp that one back in place while trying to free the others. Each of the front callipers has three pistons and each piston was seized and badly corroded when I got it out. I knew that the bloke I bought the car from had recently bought a few rover P6’s and they used the same callipers so went to see him.

That was a good idea. He had a replacement brake master cylinder, several brake callipers I could try and salvage pistons from and the possibility of a rear suspension piece from a SE6 to replace the old small one I have. This small suspension bit I have is from the early suspension set up and you cannot get bushes for it. Hopefully the later piece will be able to simply replace the one I have. Once the brake bits have been identified and the brake cylinder refurb kits have been sorted I will wander over with some tools to see what I can salvage.

While removing the old brake flexy from one of the front wheels the metal bracket fell off. This is a right swine as I don’t have access to a welding kit myself. I will be visiting a friend when I can find someone who will help. I am thinking of saving up a few welding jobs as I identify them to make it worth firing up the welder.

I removed the split rubber gaiters from the steering and was pleased by the state of the joints. Hopefully I can just stick new gaiters on.

I decided to clean up the gearbox housing a bit so it is now a shiny silver. While I was at it, I took the gear stick and change mechanism off. I cleaned them up and greased what needed greasing. There were none of the rubber bushings so it was a clattering loose affair. I couldn’t get any new bushings had a bright idea, I cut a short length of rubber fuel pipe and this turned out to be just the right diameter to act as a bushing. The gerneal clean, grease and replacement bushings made things a lot better and now I can select all 4 forward gears plus reverse which was never there previously.

I think this brings me up to date. I have a stag weekend over the bank holiday (yes, I know I am too old for that stuff) so will not get any work done on the car for a while and won’t be able to make Stoneliegh. I will try not to leave it so long next time and hope to buy the brake lines for the weekend after the Bank Holiday.

Managed to get some pics uploaded

I like the eeriness of the misty photos, was you up with the mist? Treat yourself to stainless steel pistons. Carry on the good work.

Misty picture is a special filter you apply to the camera lens. It is a mixture of oil, grease, dirt blood, sweat and tears.

That was a good idea for the bush. On the photo with the G cramp, is that how you loosened the piston? What have you done about the Spigot? Are you tapping it?

Haven't touched the carbs. I have decided to get the brakes sorted first.

I have got all but one of the suspension bushings sorted. I need to get a new bit to fix the last and then the car can roll. I have brake lines, pistons, flexis and shoes coming in to stop the car rolling.

Fuel and electrics next to make it move and then the body. Hopefully accelerated progress again over the next couple of months

WCA, i know its only 9 days since your last post but i just wondered if you have 'accelerated' yet...

A load ofbrake pipe arrived yesterday. The rubber gaitor for the steering joints arrived today. I plan progress over the weekend if I can shift this flu.

Touch wood, you'll get loads done? i will look out for your 'Posts'

Good
Broken brake mount now riveted and fixed.
One Gaitor fitted

Bad
Can't release the track end fitting to undo the bolt and get the other gaiter on.
Can get the bushings into the lower wishbones to allow me to refit the hub
Flu still here in force

Conculsion
Sleep for a while and look at it again later

Check

Good
Track end fitting removed
Other Gaitor fitted
Bushings fitted
Remaining front hub fitted

Bad
I copper slipped the track end to stop it seizing again and now it just spins when I turn the bolt. There is nothing on the other side to grip to stop it turning - Suggestions please
Still dying of flu

Conclusion
Happy with progress today.
Will get a pipe bender tomorrow and some cheap copper to practise with before trying it on the good stuff.
Try and source the clips that hold the brake pipe to the chassis - Suggestions please?
See if the guy who was sourcing me the replacement / reconditionaed brake bits has managed yet.
Time to sleep again

Use a plain nut to pull the joint together tightly then carefully remove that nut and replace with the new nylock nut. Tighten slowly until the nut bottoms out and then tighten fully.

Plain nut still spins the joint :-(

Put some weight onto track rod end (eg get someone to stand on it) to force the taper into its socket whilst you tighten the nut.

Chris

Brake pipe clips here as featured in useful suppliers thread...

http://www.bresco.com/acatalog/Brake_and_Fuel_Hardware.html

Cheers pops

Still dying of flu and stomach cramps but between the bed and the toilet trips I have managed a couple of bits.

Broken brake bit. The rivet was holding it firm so I am not sure if the solder was really necessary or indeed adds anything.


Gaitors as mentioned earlier:


My shiny new brake pipes.


As I have never worked with brake pipes of pipe benders I decided to spend a tenner and get some copper pipe to practice with rather than risking the set with all the fittings on.


Look, I can do corners and spirals


top = expensive bit not to be cocked up
middle = Old bit which is bent and broken
bottom = my cheap practice copper



top = expensive bit not to be cocked up
middle = Old bit which is bent and broken
bottom = my attempt in copper which fits!

Good effort! Must take our hats off to the engineering genius who felt an aluminium rivet with some solder leached round it was a suitable fix for a broken brake bracket.