MadaboutKitcars

Yeah, hope you feel better soon and I hope it doesn't mutate in to Gooster flu?

One of my kids at school suggested you could get swine flu at the same time as bird flu.
I said, oh yeah, right, that'll be when pigs fly

We've had a lot of swine flu at our school, the Tamiflu makes you feel terrible, so hope you feel better soon.
Tim

Thanks guys.

Just hope my other half doesn't get it, as I'm sure man pig flu will be much worse than woman pig flu... And at that point, the sympathy will stop.

On a less oinkish note, Terry's back off holiday and told me they'll be making a batch of bumpers next week, and that she'd chase my bonnet catches.

I wish I hadn't said that...........

looks like the pig flu has crossed over to cars............

http://www.flickr.com/photos/23751994@N03/3710267200/sizes/l/in/pool-54129423@N00/

Arrrg! My eyes!

Kill it. Kill it with fire!!!

Well, the pig plague didn't keep me down for long - here's the latest:

http://www.greatoldone.co.uk/Site/Build_Diary/Entries/2009/7/20_Hot_under_the_Bonnet.html

I've done some more wiring, and built a centre console and sorted out the dashboard since last time:

http://www.greatoldone.co.uk/Site/Build_Diary/Entries/2009/8/10_Dashed_Good_Instrumentation.html

I think it looks pretty smart!

I've been looking at Peter's piccies - did your dashboard pass first time? I ask as you've only got some push on edging on the bottom of it... I thought it needed to have at least a 19mm radius on the bottom?

Due to this I was planning on fitting some wooden battons to the bottom and then shaping them with a router.

If I don't need to, I shan't bother.

My carbio dash lower edge passed IVA. I used 15mm foam pipe insulation (about 55p for a metre length from B&Q) and covered it with black leathercloth to match the dash. Its got a ready cut slot in it so it was a matter of pushing it over the bottom edge of the dashboard. I glued it on the back so that it could be removed later without damaging the front of the dash, but it looks good enough to remain.

I used foam U shape from Wollies, covered it in leathercloth and then glued it on. It actually looks quite good and passed without comment. I think you only need the 19mm radius if the edge is "hard".

Robin

Hi Jason,

your dash is looking great and will look very nice when finished.

Yup, mine passed first time. As Robin says it has to be a bit soft.

I used this stuff from Woolies...........
http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/p-1816-sponge-extrusion.aspx

It got a good checking by the SVA man but he was happy, but i've not studied the IVA manual so best to check.
I also had a length of air con pipe insulation covered in leather cloth in the back up vehicle. The plan was to stick on at the test center if he didn't like the woolies stuff, but I didn't need it. The black foam 'U' channel is much neater.

Have you got your new seats yet?

...peter

Not yet - I need to get my finger out and get them ordered, along with some matching vinyl and gaiters for the gearstick and handbrake.

By the way - do you still have your boat building moulds? I could do with borrowing them to start laying up some hull pieces around the boot...

I have them at the moment. Still haven't made my hull (boot) pieces yet although I have found a source of flexible ply that should do the job.

Robin

Really? Do tell.

http://shop.instant-shop.com/bagpress/category80374.html

They are local to me. Haven't bought any yet 'cause you need to buy a full sheet, but it looks like it would do the job. I was thinking about laminating two 3mm layers so that it holds it's shape.

Robin

Need a little help.

I need to find a supplier of thin 'trim' nuts for the toggle switches. Whilst they all look the same, they are from different manufacturers and came with different style mounting nuts.

I'd like to get a set of matching ones for them. They're all the same fine M12 thread (1.00mm thread pitch), but Google as I may, I can't seem to find anywhere that supplies them...

Maybe I'm looking for the wrong thing? I'd call it a trim or panel nut - but It may be called something else.

How about http://www.stagonset.co.uk/fasteners?cart_id=8651542_5841&prm_grp=A2_Nut_M12&summit=M12|Nuts or http://stigfasteners.easywebstore.co.uk/

try
http://www.holden.co.uk/
http://www.martrim.co.uk/

Chris

Thanks chris, but I think they're too thick, and the thread pitch is too corse.

Have you tried RS components or Rapid electronics? Me-thinks you may end up buying complete switches just to get matching nuts. (I am resisting the obvious joke...)


Robin

That's what I've ended up doing. I bought three whole switches from Maplin, and used 5 of the nuts to dress the front of the switches.

Hi GOO
I've had an ambition to build a Marlin since their earliest days (over 20 years ago) but never had the bottle/money/time. But something started me thinking recently about it and maybe nows the time.
I started doing some searching and found your blog about the Sportster build - what a journey. Looks like it will be fantastic when finished.
One of my biggest concerns is space. I only have a 'standard' sized garage thats integral with the house. In your photos yours garage looks similar. Could you tell me how big it is and how you've managed for space in there?

Thanks in advance,
grinch

Hi grinch - welcome to the forums!

Yes, my garage is only a single one, and is built into the house. I can't remember the exact measurements of the top of my head, but I believe it's a 'standard' width, and slightly longer than 'standard' by a couple of feet, due to our staircase running over the garage at that point (you can see that in the photos).

That extra space was used up by my work bench, so it doesn't give me any more room.

I managed the build by only buying what I needed when I needed from Marlin. They do the kits in a number of set modules. As you can see from the blog, I started off with the donor car, stripped it and refurbished the parts before even ordering anything from Marlin.

The I ordered the chassis, and then the other kit pieces as required. I tried to persuade my other half to let me store parts in the spare room, but she was having none of it!

Even with all the body work on now, I still have ample room to get around all sides of the car. Small fabrication or assembly jobs can get done on the work bench, larger ones usually get done outside on the drive when the weather is OK.

The thing I found most of a pain was getting the bits for each module, and then trying to find places to put them until they where put on the car. Lots of shelves help - I put mine up high to clear the main door when it opened, and had them run across the top. Bigger bits tend to live in the seat / foot wells until needed, or until they're in the way and you need to move them. There's a lot of that.

You do also have the option of putting stuff under the car if you use the build stands Marlin can rent you, as it puts the chassis 3ish feet up in the air. Again, good place, until you have to move it to put something on underneath.

I'm sure the other chaps will chime in with handy hints on how to build in confined spaces - Peter did the majority of his build in a single lock up that didn't have any power!

Cheers,

Jason (GOO)

I did my build in a single garage as well. Unlike Jason I bought everything from Marlin in one go. I bought a spare garden shed and kept the body in there until I needed it! Like Jason I stripped the donor first before the kit arrived. I have my workbench in a shed outside the garage. Bit of a pain walking back and forth but my garage isn't really long enough - the Sportster is almost as big as the donor E30.

If you are serious about building now may be a good time despite the recession. I suspect a fair few part finished kits may come on the market from those builders that have found they don't have the time/skill/money to complete. Part finished kits can often be a bargain - as long as you are careful and understand what you are buying!

Robin

And I built my Cabrio in a 'Standard' size garage. Foreunately for me the garage is seperate and had a pitched roof which provided some storage space. I stripped the donor and kept all the bits in the garage, then got the chassis and as quickly as possible got it rolling on its wheels, with engine and geabox installed.
I then bought the rest of the kit. The major body pannels spend a few weeks under a tarpauling in the back garden.
However a cabrio does take up more space than a Sportster as the wings and running board occupy a lot of space, so from the point of having the body panels on I had to push it out of the garage to do any work. This did limit when I could do stuff to good weather.

Anyway, bite the bullet, its what you have wanted to do - no excuses!