MadaboutKitcars

Never mind your next project, get the current one finished!

Whoops, better keep my mouth shut!!

Well you must have heard of the seven P's Seanick?

Prior Planning and Preparation Prevents Piss-Poor Performance.

We have to plan ahead and also dream some times?

Last July, just days after its UK release, a smug looking chap wearing a silk cravat almost crashed his shiny new F-Type coming off the roundabout near my home while trying to crane his neck to get a better look at what I was driving.

Stick to the xkss Scottie, which is coming together nicely, and leave the (MG)F-Type look to the merchant bankers (rhyming slang) who can afford to pay £20k over the odds for a Boxster rival that isn't quite as good to drive (even though it does sound amazing).

Absolutely brilliant stuff Mr Towed, (as usual)

Not wishing to appear as a merchant. (Rhyming slang) you've almost put me off it already!!

Kits to try and replicate current production cars look like they are trying a bit to much IMHO

Look at some of the Peugeot 405/ Ferrari home made replicas or even this

I see what you mean.

omg. wtf? etc.

Is that a Cor308GT4tina? Who on Earth would want a bad replica of one of the only genuinely awkward looking Ferraris ever built?

Towed you crack me up!!

I didn't put what you wrote above, in case the bloke who built it was on this forum!!

ou are still spot on though!!

Based on Toyota Celica apparently and mocked across the internet

Current production car replica based on a Toyota? Not a good idea in my book.

The rear reminds me a bit of a Dodge Charger - take the Ferrari badges and grill off and fit lights and a grill at the front.

today

After all my attempts at centering the petrol cap aperture prior to bonding the body to the Spit tub, somehow during the process the body moved slightly.

Not much, but enough so that the petrol hose is 3 or 4 mm out of centre.

This is not noticeable, but has the effect of leaving a 2 mm gap at the offside of the petrol cap when it is in place.

This means the rain could get in. I did not want to fill it with sealer so, have had to rework the edge to close the gap.

Again, all extra work I had not expected.

I also did some reworking to the heater ducts which serve the dash.
They were far too big and unwieldy for my liking, which would have made them difficult to refit. So I did a number on them.

They should be a doddle to fit now.

I have some pictures but it looks like photo bucket has a problem and right now I cannot get the pics.

I will post them when I can. Watch this space...........

Pics

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Yesterday

I did some small odd jobs yesterday, one of which was to sort out the luggage rack.

I had only fitted it so I had the holes in the boot-lid prior to painting.

When I got it ( it came with the donar car) it had horrid elephantine rubber feet on it which did not suit me, so I binned them and have ordered some small neat elegant ones more suited to the job.

Also, although the rack is well made from stainless steel, the four feet have mild steel captive nuts which tend to rust, I think its possibly electrolysis between the two dissimilar metals.

Anyway, before fitting, I had brushed the rust off and put some kurust on.

The rack has been on the boot a couple of months perhaps, but when it came off yesterday, the rust was as bad as when I first got it!

This time, I gave it my best shot and hopefully have cured the problem.
As ever I am using stainless bolts to minimise the issue.

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fuel filler cap hole

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Second session today

I wanted to get my exhaust system on and all bolted in place today, but as usual all sorts of snags slowed me down. But I have progressed quite a lot.

I trial fitted the system ages ago when I first made it, and could not get a gas tight fit between the flexi pipe and the 4 into 2 into 1 pipe.
The flexi manufacturer assured me it was possible but he was wrong.

To solve the issue I welded a slight reducer to the flexi, cut a couple of inches off the main pipe to compensate, and I have a reasonable gas tight fit now.

I need to fit the whole thing, including the heat shield and all so I have all the holes ready prior to painting the body.

But this will not happen today! Bollo! (the x remaining silent)

Here are some pics:

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Err, Scottie.... You are going to great lengths to get the detail right, so how about the sound..... GT6 motor perhaps.....?!?!

Well Ollie a 1500 Triumph engine is never going to sound like a Jag straight six at full howl, BUT, I reckon the car will weigh in at not much more than 500 kilos perhaps 600, and the engine should with a few tweaks be producing around 80 BHP.
At 600 kilos the power to weight would be over 130BHP, the car is going to fly with the miserable 1.5 lump.

I have a GT6, but the engine weighs almost trice what the Spit engine does, but does not produce twice the power, only perhaps 20 or 30 BHP more.

I am not really a fan of the Triumph straight six, as its too heavy.

Of course this is only my feeling. A lot of folk love them.

A Rover 1.4 K series engine produces the same power as the GT6 engine but weighs half as much.

To be honest, The engine I have in the car which came with it, is almost new, starts first time on the button, and I cannot be arsed to change it!

Bit of a long answer, but that's how it is.

I should have added: with that stainless exhaust I have made, the engine sounds nothing like a little 1500!

It sounds very beefy and muscular!

Hope it gets through the Mot sounding like it does!

Scottie - Looks like lots of good progress to me.

It was interesting to see the bonding paste in action, as I have big tub of it for my own build.

I took an angle grinder to some of the excess paste around my bonnet hinge hoop and that was rock hard.

Good luck with the rest of your MOT preparations.

Cheers, Paul.

Hi Paul,
Yeah, I think where strength is required the bonding paste is the dogs business, but can be a bitch to sand, so I always put filler over the top on external bodywork, because I'm lazy, and don't want extra labour!

As if I've not got enough to do........

Electric fan

Some time earlier in the build when I fitted the electric fan, and ditched the crappy little fixed fan that Triumph (bless them), had fitted, I knew that eventually I would have to wire it in to the system so it actually worked.

Recently, it has occurred to me that as the original fan ran continuously
because it was driven by a belt attached to the engine, there was no electric controller present for my new fan.

I trolled the net like we do, and came up with an absolute little gem of a controller, which not only looked the part, but had a really easy- to- work dial, to set the desired temperature for the fan to kick in.

And unlike some ( the most expensive one I came across was £124)

this one was very good value at £20 including postage!

I tested it in a cup of tea I had just made, and sure enough, it kicked in at 80c when I spun the dial around.

Really handy to have one in the kitchen if you want to know the temperature of your beverage in order to avoid a bad scald in the mouth :-)

I guess that in the winter you could dial in and reset the system to run a bit hotter in order to make the heater a bit more violent!



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https://picasaweb.google.com/115660383436295169415/20140425#6006234606913989122

I was at the Haynes museum and saw the red XKSS that I videod. Unfortunately the bright lights, crap phone camera and cramped conditions made filming difficult.

I tried to ficus in on the details and features rather than the big picture as you have lots of those. Hopefully it is of some use to you

I appreciate your efforts WCA, top marks for that, but when I hit the link, "it will not be found" notice comes up, could you double check, otherwise we have nothing!!