MadaboutKitcars

A little more progress today and what a lovely sunny day it was too. I got some more of the front bulkhead tidying done and then turned my attention to the rear light arrangement while the bonding paste dries. I had put an led strip above the number plate light but decided it just looked too modern. So, I've sourced a motorcycle rear light (£8.99 from ebay) which now takes on the functions of brake light, number plate light and supplementary rear light -





I'm much happier with the look now and I'll fill the redundant oblong hole above it tomorrow.

Its coming on very well T, did you have to fill around the outriggers?

Yes, I made a complete mess of the body around the outriggers while I was fitting the body, cutting far too much off on both sides. I've done a basic repair with stainless steel mesh and body filler, but I reckon I need to reinforce it with fibreglass once I've cut the boot outriggers off.

Does the Northampton DVLA have a poor reputation for re-bodying inspections?

I used Boreham Wood when registering a motorcycle and don't want to go there again. The actual service was helpful and friendly, even if I did have to teach their vehicle inspector about the difference between Italian frame numbers and type approval numbers (something they've only been getting wrong for about 30 years). The site access is a nightmare though as they're next to the driving test centre and trying to drive in with a trailer whilst nervous learner drivers are trying to get out is not fun!

Hmm, having received no reply after leaving a voicemail message and sending an email directly to the Peterborough vehicle inspection officer I phoned DVLA at Swansea this morning.

A call taker called Mark explained that it's not up to me to request a rebody inspection, but it's up to DVLA to decide if I need one. He's sending me a paperwork pack to fill in and return to Swansea, and they'll then let me know if I need it inspecting at all, depending on the number of points it scores for original parts used.

This is all new to me, I don't think anyone else has hit this particular barrier, although it does open up the possibility of getting the V5 changed by post, which will save me having to tow my pride and joy through the Peterborough rush hour traffic.

I'll keep you posted, but there's the inevitable possibility of indefinite DVLA delays...

Now that would be the icing on the cake...

But will they let you specify a new name if it doesn't require an inspection? I can imagine it becoming -
Make: Triumph
Model: Four-wheeled road-going re-bodied open saloon

I'd be happy with that as it would save a lot of hassle.

- For all legal purposes that would be technically correct, wouldn't it?

Pardon my ignorance, but I'm not sure why you would need a name change - out of respect for the designer? I'm not sure I understand.

Hold your horses 'pokes. Just took a call from the nice chap at Peterborough DVLA office - don't speak to Swansea, he says, they don't know how to deal with this type of enquiry. Inspection is now booked for next Tuesday. He could have done it this Thursday but I'm working.

So, one week to bite my nails down to the quick...

I may be wrong, but I am under the impression that following a successful inspection, you can choose what goes on the registration document. Many opt for "Sammio".

OK, thanks for that.

Good luck with the inspection Mr T.

In preparation for next Tuesday's journey to Peterborough I thought it would be a good idea to have my pride and joy insured, just in case someone drives into it during the trip, which, Sod's law says will happen if I don't insure it.

Quite a few people on this forum have recommended 'A Plan' insurance so I contacted them first. What I got was first class, friendly and knowledgeable service from their consultant, Claire, who called me back within five minutes with a quote for my required insurance as follows:

Comprehensive cover; agreed value; self and spouse to drive; 3,000 miles per year; £100 excess; and 90 days European cover included for an annual premium of...

£99.42p!

I was impressed enough with the service and the quote not to bother shopping around and paid up on the spot.

So, my Spyder is now insured (well, it will be from Monday next week), and it's getting scarily close to the day when I'll actually be able to drive it on the road. I'm really looking forward to that in an extreme sports, adrenalin junky sort of way. Scary.

Hi Towed

Where are you intending cutting your riggers back to?
Have seen a couple showing different amounts, I was intending cutting back to my Exhaust bracket..

Pops

I just assumed you cut them off flush with the body shell so they give it some support at the back? That'll also open up the possibility of some genuine rust bubbling up under the paint in years to come to give it a bit of authentic patina.

Good question though, anyone know what the 'proper' way to cut down the outriggers is?

I hadn't thought about it supporting the rear, thanks for pointing that out.

Be carefull if you do cut it down to support the body and make sure that the remaining metal is well rounded or else it could result in cracks in the body work.

Mine dropped off to body length (theres lucky) and the ends were painted and then glassed to the rear of the body to help male it stiffer. All fine so far...

That's what I'm planning to happen to mine when I get back from Peterborough.

Good luck for your inspection Mr T and thanks for the insurance tip too.

As I start messing about with my own headlights I'm wondering what you are doing?

Are you re-using donor parts, or something else?

As always, photos and tips are always welcome.

Cheers, Paul.

Vitesse headlights were 5" so I've bought some new 7" tripod type units and second hand mini chrome rims. Will post some pics once I start fitting the bonnet, next week hopefully.

I spent today finishing off the front bulkhead. It's not perfect now by any means, this was never going to be a show car, but it's looking a lot neater now and I'm happy with the results. I also sorted out a clamp to stop the battery from jumping about when I tow the car to Peterborough next week -





Please ignore all the wiring laying on top of the engine, that's just the front lighting loom and is only there to stop it getting tangled up in the generator belt or wheels when I drive the car in and out of the garage.

Oh yes, I also took it up to the end of my drive today to check the speedo was working - it pulls like a train but I ran out of drive at a heady 10mph in first. The brakes feel good too, I'm glad I've fitted a servo as it's given me the pedal feel of a modern car and, together with the grooved and drilled front discs, a bit of extra stopping power in an emergency.

I got a few tidying jobs done today - fabricated a bracket for the Vitesse overflow bottle, bagged up the front wiring loom and taped it to the cross member for example. I also started putting bits 'n' bobs into the dash in their final positions -



As you can see, it's a complete departure from the usual approach and I'm aiming to keep it as uncluttered as possible.

I'm particularly happy with the location of the ignition barrel, which is almost hidden from view from outside the car, and the master light switch, which is quite difficult to get at unless you're sitting in the cockpit. That should mean there's less likelihood of some clown switching the lights on and flattening the battery while it's parked up.

I haven't connected up the oil pressure gauge yet but I really like the way the white face gives a bit of contrast to the black Triumph dials.

It is funny how you can see things in other builds at just the right time.

My donor was missing the overflow bottle and I only got one a few days ago.
I wondered if the small hole in the lid was standard and I can see the same hole in your photo above.
I've also just found a grommet to run the hose through as it didn't come with one.
But it looks like your hose is just stuck into the bottle without a grommet, is this "normal"?

I've also just checked my wiring diagram as I didn't expect the lights to work independently of the ignition.
But sure enough, the wiring suggests the main light switch does look like it could just be switched on.
So I will also have a think about where to put that in my dash too.

I'm sure I've mentioned that I owe you a beer for all the help your build has given me.
I look forward to settling my debt.

Take care, Paul.

The tank of course catches any water expelled from the cooling system. This might just be from overfilling, but you might have had a minor overheat (a long steep hill on a very hot day for example). When the system cools it is able to draw the water back in. You want the pipe to go close to the bottom of the catch tank and the easy way of holding it there is a grommet in the cap. For the system to work properly, you should have the correct type of radiator cap. It will have a second rubber seal around the underside of the cap as well as the sprung loaded seal on the protruding centre. The little hole in the lid is just a vent since the catch tank isn't pressurised.