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All's good here thank you, apart from the demon bug I've had for a fortnight, which somewhat put the kibosh on Xmas. The only tiny progress I've made is buying a pair of long front wings on Ebay for 50 quid. I'm supposed to be motoring down to Winchester today to collect them but not sure if I'm up to it. My last post seems a lifetime ago, although it's not even six weeks. Roll on spring!
[FONT="Comic Sans MS"]Yesterday, spurred on by Froggyman's and Lucky's good wishes and encouragement, not to mention the crisp sunny weather, I wandered down to the cave and decided to start working out gearbox mountings. First job was to get the trolley jack out of the way, so I lay a piece of 4x4 across the top rails and took the weight of the back of the engine with a ratchet strap.
I was then able to crane the gearbox roughly into position. It was immediately apparent that, unless the engine/box were to be at a crazy nose-down attitude, the interfering frame cross member would need to be modified.
Yesterday, spurred on by Froggyman's and Lucky's good wishes and encouragement, not to mention the crisp sunny weather, I wandered down to the cave and decided to start working out gearbox mountings. First job was to get the trolley jack out of the way, so I lay a piece of 4x4 across the top rails and took the weight of the back of the engine with a ratchet strap.
I was then able to crane the gearbox roughly into position. It was immediately apparent that, unless the engine/box were to be at a crazy nose-down attitude, the interfering frame cross member would need to be modified.
A new length of inch and a half box complete with the two forward facing stubs will need to be lap welded beneath the existing cross member (suitably cut to clear the gearbox tail). With so much welding work on the frame being needed, I think I'll ask my ever accommodating friend if one of his boys would like to come in on a Saturday for folding money, with a suitable donation for consumables. This is what we did for the substantial frame mods needed on the Rover V8 engined Phaeton I built back in '92.
Having reached this impasse I decided to offer up the prop. just to see how it looked for cutting and shutting. Imagine my dismay when the female end's internal spline proved to be way too small for the gearbox's male output spline. Aaaaaargh!!! The above mentioned miserable git had said "There's not much I don't know about these Rootes propshafts". Obviously mistaken!
So, it looks like going back to the relevant FB groups to find someone who really knows what they're talking about, so that a correct prop may be sourced. 30 quid and 150 miles of petrol down the pan. Disappointed? Just a tad!
Hi Mick,
sorry to hear about your propshaft woes. I got my propshaft from Dunning and Fairbank (https://www.dandfltd.co.uk/) and they were extremely knowledgeable and very helpful. Worth dropping them an email?
....peter
On Monday, at long last, I motored down to Winchester and collected my Westfield SE wings. My Dutton chum of 40+ years accompanied me, reprising the many trips we made rescuing abandoned Phaetons and B Types back in the 80s. Happy Days!
And yesterday the nice man delivered my metre of 40x40mm tube, destined for cross member modifications. The sun has today crept high enough to clear the houses opposite and illuminate the cave from just after 0900 - spring is on its way...
As I've been typing this I've flicked back and forth to Ebay where I've just this second won a pair of A35 front sidelights for a tenner. They're 'spares or repair' but as I'll be making my own LED bulbs, as per usual, that matters not.
Yesterday, at long last, the warm spring sunshine tempted me down to the cave and engendered some enthusiasm which has been largely lacking during the rather grim weather since I last posted.
First job was to sort out my disorganised shed where I discovered that I was down to my last seven spare steering wheels...
I also dug out my seat belt mounting frame which I had pop riveted, ready for welding, but back to front . I drilled out the rivets and re-assembled it correctly.
I then turned my attention to the stack of GRP body parts on my front drive. I decided that the long hard top was surplus, advertised it on Dutton Owners FB group (FOC) and got an immediate bite. Then, as one of the planned welding jobs was the stub supports for the headlights, I popped the flip front back on and marked where they'd fit, so today I can chop up some 1" angle in readyness.
I've only made one purchase since last posting, which was aluminium front Triumph hubs with Ford PCD. The steel ones that came with the car have bolt on adaptors and weigh the proverbial ton!. I had the imperial studs pressed in by the vendors, Merlin Motorsport. They weren't cheap at coming on 300 quid the pair but I'm pleased as punch with them.
Now that enthusiasm has been re-kindled I'm hoping that the weather gods will smile this summer.
My Westfield XI owning kit car chum of some 40+ years bought it at a car boot sale years ago as it was Triumph Spitfire friendly, donating it for the A352. Sadly, pedant that I am, I decided that the correct D-Type five holes per spoke style should be fitted.
Yesterday, having trimmed off the surplus fabric around my Monaco tonneau cover, I decided to make the headlight support brackets, thinking this would be a five minute job . Far from it. Having offered up the flip front to gauge access to the front frame, I dug out one headlamp bucket and pondered the appropriate size mounting. The 13mm mounting post thread with its hefty washers decided me against 1" box or angle, a pity as that is the size of the top rail to which it would be welded. Digging out and offering up some 1.5" angle looked OK, if welded under the front of the top rail. Lots of discing, filing and (especially) drilling later the N/S one was g-clamped on with a redundant sealed beam unit in place to view the effect. It was satisfactory. I took a picture but accidently deleted today .
Yesterday morning I pitched in and made the mirror image driver's side headlight bracket - pretty straightforward. The chap who had bagged my long hardtop on FB then arrived to collect it and we chatted Duttons for a good while before he departed.
Whilst all the metalwork gubbins was out I decided to fabricate a rear cross member for the MkII Cortina fuel tank. My first Phaeton also used this tank, but, as it was new with an intact and sufficiently strong GRP boot floor, no rear support was necessary, unlike the current butchered item. The rearmost frame members are angled inwards to pick up the leaf spring mounts so my proposed support needed a bit of thought. With a combination of a ratchet strap, axle stand and spirit level I balanced the tank in position
After offering up my length of 1" box, I cut a bevel on one end so it just cleared the back of the tank and marked the position of the first bend. I cut through three sides of the box, offered it up and bent it until it sat just right. Repeat for the second bend, then chop the other end bevel. To my amazement it ended up almost an interference fit.
Today I'll cut the fillets necessary for the bend holes
I hope you don't mind, but just a thought.......... If the body/floor is above that, would it be worth making the centre 'strip' detachable so the tank can be dropped for maintenance?
I hope you don't mind, but just a thought.......... If the body/floor is above that, would it be worth making the centre 'strip' detachable so the tank can be dropped for maintenance?
My first Phaeton had the same tank, and even with the 2" stub pipe which mated (via a hose) with the Spitfire centre deck filler, it went in through the boot opening. There'll be a 6mm ply boot floor with a suitably accurate tank hole which I'll fit before attaching the rear body to the frame.
Dpaz wrote:
And another IHYDMB. If you cut the fillets on the inside they would close up. Just sayin' ! But it is looking good. It is nice now it is warming up.
I've gone the 'inside cut' route a couple of times successfully with exhausts, but only after making plastic pipe patterns first. I didn't have any square plastic pipe so I took the 'lazy but first time accurate' way out.
Thanks for your interest both. Good to know that there are helpful eyes lurking on the forum .
There has been a brief hiatus in cave focused activity, as Mrs Blackbird has set up home there and is patiently sitting on her clutch. Even were it not illegal, I wouldn't disturb her.
Sometime mid-week Mr Squirrel had eggs for breakfast, so the cave is now free again. Hurrah!
Yesterday I decided to bite the bullet and swap the differential for my 4.1. To improve access I turned the frame around and set to work in the sun. Starting on the off-side I removed the wheel, then the spacer, together with its pillar bolts. The drum only needed gentle tapping to come off, the shoes offered no resistance, so I now had access to the screws (three only in place!) securing the retaining plate. They were a little fiddly, being masked somewhat by the flange, but were soon off. I suspended the backplate with a loop of the ever-useful paracord as I didn't want to disturb any of the braking gubbins at this stage. I replaced the drum back to front as an impromptu slide hammer and the half shaft was out. Repeat for near side.
Pessimism dictated a drip tray in case any hypoy was left in the banjo, and I cushioned the cross member with a chunky fleece before sitting down to attack the retaining nuts (again, three only). The one at the top not having been bathed in oil dribbles was very rusty, as was the stud. Unfortunately, it was a Nyloc, one of my pet hates, so I could get neither a socket nor a ring spanner onto the meat of the hex due to the casting masking its bottom side. Aaaaaaargh!. An open-ender proved ineffectual, even after a blast with the blow lamp, so I gave up after giving it a good soaking with penetrating liquid. I shall resume with mole grips later today.
Other tasks taking precedence yesterday, I only returned to the cave this morning, brimming with enthusiasm and determination. I adjusted the mole grips until a mighty heave was required to lock them in place. Lamping the errant nut until the burning nylon and penetrating oil fumes half choked me, I applied gorilla strength to the grips. They rounded the nut even further. OK, re-think. Fetching my smallest cold chisel, and sharpening it on my bench grinder, I chopped off the cage containing the remains of the nylon and set to driving the remains anti-clockwise with lump hammer blows until the still hot nut yielded. Hurrah! I then wormed into position to release the three remaining at the bottom. These turned out to be barely finger tight . The copious gasket goo (no gasket!) offered little resistance and the drip tray proved its worth!
It then dawned on me that, although I had the new gasket, half inch AF nuts were sadly lacking, so it was back to the keyboard for their purchase and this update.
Thinking about next weekend's Kit Car Show, just up the road in Malvern, I thought I'd dig out some 80s memorabilia . My first show was in '87, by which time I was DOC magazine editor, and we had just shy of 100 cars on our stand! In those days one was issued a windscreen sticker (which poseurs like me kept in their Phaeton for a couple of weeks).
In the same happy memories box I found entry and camping tickets for Le Mans. The first couple at least were in my first Phaeton, subsequent ones in my matt black Dutton Sierra, dubbed 'The Stealth' by compatriots.
For the first few visits we camped at the sites within the circuit, then discovered Hunadieres behind the restaurant outside the circuit half way down the Mulsanne Straight (sadly by then ruined, IMO, by the addition of chicanes). At this site you just turned up, pitched your tent, and a guy came round with a book of tickets. A much nicer site altogether,
Happy Days!
Back to the build: I searched high and low for the diff gasket I'd bought at the same time as the 4.1, but without success so bought another which arrived yesterday. I now have all the necessary for this job, Monday it is! I'd decided a week or so ago to renew the half shaft bearings and bought same. An inquiry of the ever helpful Stroud and District Motor Club FB group for an engineering workshop who could fit them elicited a response, and later this morning I'm taking them there (ten miles or so) for the job to be done. The proprietor said he's very busy and wouldn't get around to it for a couple of weeks. Not a problem with plenty of other jobs to be addressed down in the scorching cave.
Having suffered something of an enthusiasm bypass, the grey windy outlook, and spurred on by Dpaz's encouragement, I decided to delve into the memories box and post some more retro drivel .
These four relate to my first Phaeton. A neighbour just down the lane kindly lent me the use of his garage for the first two weeks of the build, during which I managed to clap on the suspension and steering, and drop in the petrol tank. It was then towed the 100 yards uphill to the village hall car park, handily opposite my gate, where I completed it over the next two and a half years at the end of a wander lead, mainly after dark. The multi-coloured bodywork was what Tim Dutton referred to as "Multi-coloured, suitable for spraying", this option resulting in the princely saving of 25 quid which paid for the 'B-Type bonnet and front wings' (i.e. Lotus Seven style) option.
Next is my dash layout which I hope to replicate on my current build. The DOC badge was designed by my good friend who was a close neighbour in those days, and something of a mentor as he was (is) DOC member no.9.
The third was taken at the Caen ferryport on arrival for the '88 Le Mans. Seems only one of us spurned sidescreens...
The last was on the way back from Le Mans in '91, the Phaeton now sporting Lotus themed colours and scrapyard front wheels, bought as I couldn't afford new rubber for the 5.5Js, having just had a third storey built on my cottages.
The four below are of the frame of an engineless B-Type I bought for a hundred quid in maybe '92? I'd already dismantled it when a Rover V8 engined project became available which I snapped up, passing on the B-Type (for what it had cost me) to the above mentioned friend. We motored over to Kent one Sunday in his Mk II Escort Ghia (which he later kindly loaned to me for a year when I was separated and penniless) where he bought a Lotus 2.2 litre slant four to put in the Dutton. 30+ years on they are both still lurking untouched in his shed. The B-Type's frame hasn't fallen apart because the joints are brazed rather than welded.
Quick photo' update. The top two are Le Mans '91 related, first one taken just before the off. My pal had just had a kidney transplant, freeing him from dialysis tyranny and facilitating trips out of more than one day. The second is on the Mulsanne Straight a couple of days later.
The bottom two demonstrate varied project delivery modes. The left hand one is the above mentioned B-Type loaded for delivery to my DOC friend's place over the valley. My 50 quid Subaru is parked in the very spot where I built my first Phaeton al fresco. The other photo' is of a newly collected Phaeton project towed by my Stealth Sierra using my Dutton towing gismo. The rig is outside my DOC friend's place where we stopped off for a coffee break. The Phaeton languished outside my digs until I flogged it and the Sierra having decided to go back exclusively to bikes. Happy Days!
Went to the show on Saturday, left at about 1300. Seriously underwhelmed. Bumped into Car Photographer and Lucky .
Yesterday I finally got around to fitting the 4.1 diff. in anticipation of today's trip to collect my half-shafts with their newly replaced bearings. I cut a piece of card to fill the hole in the banjo and carefully cleaned both the threads of the studs, with a wire brush, and the mating surface with acetone. I heaved the replacement diff. onto the bench and likewise cleaned the machined surface and passed a rag through the mounting holes. As advised by an internet search, I applied a smear of Loctite 574 to both sides of the gasket, slipping it carefully over the studs before hooking the diff over them with one 'safety first' nut on the top stud. My new split washers and plain nuts went on a treat. I couldn't find anything on the net regarding a torque setting for them so used a common sense amount gauged by wrist.
Excuse rubbish photo'. As soon as 'school o'clock' is over, I'll hit the road for half-shaft collection.
Scratching around the various back axle bits and pieces the other day to see what was required, I was delighted to find a pair of new wheel cylinders, for which I ordered a fitting kit and rubbers. I also bought a small bag of 5/16-24 x3/4" set screws so that the half-shaft retaining plates could have their full complement. All the brake shoe fittings are present, the shoes themselves have plenty of meat, so I turned my attention to the backplates and drums. After a good wire brushing the former looked serviceable (although one had a couple of 8mm looking holes drilled in it, presumably to facilitate blacksmith style drum removal). The latter came up OK, except for the friction surfaces. One was grooved by previous shoes' rivets and the other had some pitting.
All three of my previously used light engineering workshops having closed, I searched on line finding another only a couple of miles away which looked hopeful. I whizzed over there this morning where the somewhat surly receptionist said "I'll find someone for you." The bloke who came to look at the drums asked what they were from: it turned out he's a kit enthusiast and pilots a turbocharged Pinto engined Robin Hood 2B. We chatted kit cars for a few minutes - he'd been to the show - then said "Come back tomorrow", hinting that he might be able to skim them as a 'foreigner'. Serendipity!
Hopefully I might actually be able to soon start some re-assembly .
Finding light engineering places is getting very difficult. I needed a couple of spacers modified for my S1 Landrover. The only place I could find charged me a small fortune which was the economic price. not a few quid for a foreigner! Mind you there don't seem to be many people doing our sort of modifications, more sctap it and buy new.
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. I drilled out the rivets and re-assembled it correctly.
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