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I am using the IVA manual as a bit of a guide while rebuilding the Roadster even though it is already registered and has no need for an IVA test or even an MOT due to its age.
I would like to use some IVA compliant door catches which means using the two stage claw type. I liked those used on the Sportster, as the handle and latch were all incorporated into one unit, but they were supplied by Marlin so I don't know where they originated from. Can anyone suggest where I might get them from?
I am using the IVA manual as a bit of a guide while rebuilding the Roadster even though it is already registered and has no need for an IVA test or even an MOT due to its age.
I would like to use some IVA compliant door catches which means using the two stage claw type. I liked those used on the Sportster, as the handle and latch were all incorporated into one unit, but they were supplied by Marlin so I don't know where they originated from. Can anyone suggest where I might get them from?
Cheers, Robin
A sensible approach. If it's any use there was an article in Complete Kit Car last year detailing how to link a bear-claw to an individual handle on a traditional roadster.
You'll have to give lessons! I spent ages googling without coming up with anything. The catcescon ebay look like they should fit the bill. As possibly the LandRover ones referred to in the Morgan article. Anything Land Rover related generally seem to be in plentiful supply. And sensibly priced.
Cheers Robin
That's a good idea. In fact many years ago I used a sand blast attachment on my Karcher to good (if messy!) effect so I might do that. My lawn could do with some sand treatment anyway ;-)
You could also consider these from Car Builder Solutions. Probably the smallest available. Think about the fixing method of the PIN. It will need some strengthening as the GRP rear tub will not give enough strength and will fracture over time. https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/mini-bear-claw-door-latches-pair-75mm
The original Marlin Roadster doors are pretty small due to the position of the running boards. But as I am going for cycle wings I thought I would take advantage of the extra depth. So I have removed the frame that the doors shut on. The picture shows a mock up of the new door with much better access. Should be much easier to get in now I am not quite so flexible as I used to be lol. I still have to add something for the door to close against at the bottom.
The original doors are basically a lump of 25mm ply skinned in aluminium. I plan to do something similar with the new doors although I will probably make the plywood more of a frame to keep the weight down. In my drive for a bit more safety I am planning to use anti-burst door catches from the series 3 Land Rover, as also used by Morgan. (Thanks to Peter for the suggestion.) More pictures once the catch arrives and I have made the first door....
Hi Robin
I'm watching your rebuild with interest.
I have a Roadster that needs completing. Hoping to get going on it next year, I've said that for the last 3 years. Life keeps getting in the way.
Lots of ideas in my head, cycle wings and bigger doors for ease of access (not getting any younger).
I have attempted to add a picture of a Marlin with the same doors
I have finished making the prototype door and have been experimenting a bit with cleaning and painting the chassis.
I have used a Land Rover latch as suggested by Peter. Morgan also use this type of latch but I suspect they must have a special version of it as the standard one has handles both on the inside and outside plus a lock barrel. I only wanted the inside handle and so the lock barrel and outside handle have been "treated" with the Dremel.
The standard Land Rover striker is HUGE and so I have made one myself a little more in keeping with the scale of the Marlin.
The current chassis finish is a mixture of old paint, rust and old paint & rust. Where the chassis is visible I have cleaned it back to bare metal. Other places I have flattened the old paint and treated the rust as appropriate. Then applied several coats of Isopon Zinc 182 primer. It's beginning to get there but will need at least another coat particularly where it's visible and I have flattened it back. One big relief is it didn't react with the existing paint so where there is no rust I can just flatten it back without having to strip it all off.
I am now on the hunt for some decent plywood to make the doors proper from. Not so easy as one might think nowadays...
I am now on the hunt for some decent plywood to make the doors proper from. Not so easy as one might think nowadays...
Cheers, Robin
Indeed - I bought some ply from B&Q - meant to be boil and waterproof exterior ply. I treated it to a couple of coats of Sadolin and put it on my trailer. Within 2 days (no rain, just dew fall) it was bent like a banana! I returned it, and was immediately told "we cut it, so you can't return it". I requested to speak to the Manager, and he immediately granted a refund. I think you'll need a specialist supplier, or How about making the doors using GRP?
Have you priced ANY plywood of late?
really expensive these days.
Yes, it's expensive. The problem I have found is that even some of the expensive stuff is rubbish. I don't mind the cost if the quality is there but the stuff from the usual builders merchants suppliers is, without exception, rubbish. So that means mail order which almost doubles the cost. Grrr
Have you thought about making an ash frame and skinning with aluminium ? The coach builders method from years ago. The trouble with ply is that it will twist and distort if its hung on its side as a door.
Or how about a hybrid? Exterior grade ply as the frame, with fist-sized holes added for lightness, and as a reinforcing shape. Then coat with epoxy to seal it, and cover with fiberglass, leaving one side on a flat surface to make the exterior smooth and flat, with the reinforcing shape visible on the inside.
Thanks for all the suggestions guys. The original doors were 25mm ply skinned with aluminium and never warped - so I was following that method. The trick I hope is to get some good quality ply and then seal it against moisture ingress. My favourite so far is something called duraply which is an engineered ply made from Poplar.
I will be cutting out the centre though so as to allow for a small door pocket and lighten the whole thing. I have just completed building a camper van from scratch so have all the good tools for that kind of thing.
It seems ages ago since I last posted an update but I have been beavering away.
I have made new seatbelt mounts to take standard inertia reel belts. I say new, but there wasn't really any proper seat belt mounts previously with static seatbelts just being attached to the aluminium inner skin. Ooo-err...
I have also been working on the rear tub repairing myriads of holes so its back to how it would have originally been supplied by Marlin. Also, in an attempt to improve both the appearance and strength I have added several layers of fibreglass tape to the top edge. It's now fairly consistantly about 6mm thick - previously it varied between about 2 and 6mm. Still needs some work but its getting there.
The observant may spot that there is more clearance between the tub and seatbelt mount one side to the other. Not sure what is out of true yet - some careful measuring needed...
Some more progress....
I have re-made the rear tub support plate. The original was pretty ugly with oversized holes. The new one is a tad lower so I should be able to get some tite-n-fast trim arround the top edge of the tub. The original went right to the top which would have made that impossible. tub_support by Robin Martin, on Flickr tub_support2 by Robin Martin, on Flickr
I have also made some new floor pan sides from 1.2mm zintec steel. The originals were alluminium -a bit scary as the seatbelt lower mount is bolted to them. My home made bender was just about up to the job but I may have to think again for the next step which is to remake the rear bulkhead. This was also ally but again I would like to make it from steel but I think my home made bender will struggle with that as it is nearly a metre wide. floorpan_side by Robin Martin, on Flickr
And finally - bought these of Ebay. Ex Austin Healey 3000 - 15x4.5J - just what I was after. I didn't want spanky new ones as they are:
A - Expensive
B - I am going for the well used classic rather than show car look.
You may spot there is actually 7! One guy had 4 for sale and someone else 3. Of course I wanted 5 so I bought both lots. They are all made by MWS - 4 seem to be original British made and the others later Indian manufacture. All 7 cost less than 1 new one. wheels by Robin Martin, on Flickr
Cheers for now, Robin
I have cut down the rear bumper. It's robust but a bit utilitarian looking and as I am planning cycle wings I thought it would better a little smaller. rear_bumper1 by Robin Martin, on Flickr
The old fuel tank was well beyond rescuing and so I think I will see about getting a custom one made. There are loads of places offering this service but does anyone have any recomendations? tank by Robin Martin, on Flickr
The plan is to use a vented cap. And I will make the cut out for the fuel sensor myself once I know what I am using.
Had a quote of £240 from CompBrake which seems reasonable. Made from 3mm ally and baffled.
Cheers Robin
Made some good progress in the last couple of weeks. After a lot of fitting and refitting the rear body tub now fits square. It had been originally fitted (by Marlin) not very well and I had to fill all the original mounting holes and redrill them. Also, as it had not been square for some 40 years, the moulding had become a bit distorted and it resisted my efforts to sort it out. Fits fine now though! tub_fitted1 by Robin Martin, on Flickr
Originally countersunk head screws were used for the fixings but these were perilously close to the edge so I have replaced them with conventional allen screws and large washers. Hopefully the wheel should hide most of them.
I was going to get some new leaf springs made but this was starting to look expensive so I thought I would check the originals a bit more closely. They turned out to be far better than I expected with little or no age related sag. Not bad seeing they are nigh on 50 years old. Picture shows them compared to a NOS original spring. rear_springs by Robin Martin, on Flickr
I was also able, to my suprise, to obtain new metalastic bushes. I suspect this is because they may be the same size as used in 1970's Fords. There isn't a lot of Marina bits out there. Burnt the old bushes out and the new ones pressed in suprisingly easily. Rear_spring_bush by Robin Martin, on Flickr
That's all for now and probably for a while. New kitchen fitting starts in ernest soon...
Cheers, Robin
The fuel tank, made by CompBrake, arrived and is exactly as my fag packet sketch so thumbs up to them. It fits almost perfectly (see below!) between the chassis rails as planned. The original tank was suspended much lower which made it rather vulnerable IMHO. The new tank is made from 3mm aluminium and so should be tough as old boots. It's also baffled and sumped so there shouldn't be any problems with fuel surge.
So - it fitted perfectly - almost... I discovered after a trial fit that the original tank mounting flanges on the chassis are positioned in such a way the the back of the tank is angled downwards by about an inch. Doh! No idea why but as the fuel take off on my tank is at the front this could prove to be a problem. Also I planned to use the tank top face as a level for the boot floor. Had I realised I could have had the flanges on the tank mounted at an angle to compensate but too late now. So i am going to have to grind off the flanges on the chassis and remake them so the tank is level. Grrrrrrrr......
Cheers, Robin
