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You may find it easier to disable the central locking then,
Keep the lock/unlock button on the passenger side and you can lock the drivers door with the key, the only faff is leaning over and unlocking the passenger door from the inside like we used to do before cars became complicated.
Lots of "Car 2 Remotes Central Door Locking Vehicle Keyless Entry System DT Kit Universal" kits on eBay for not much money (<£10). I have one because I saw the fitting of one to a Z3 described on YouTube. No, I haven't fitted it yet. Needs access to wiring behind the heater control panel. The wiring diagram looks to allow a hidden override switch.
Or use the original boot lock... I'm mounting mine on the outside instead of the mini lock (photo) but you could put it somewhere on the inside to unlock the doors...? Probably only need the square box wired up and push/pull to lock/unlock.
I had a really good auto electrician come round as I had saved up a long list of problems, one of them being the central locking.
I had bought a cheap kit off eBay for him to fit. He checked out my key fob and with a tester found the battery was dead. I had replaced the battery when I got the car and when it packed up the first thing I did was change the battery (twice). He said he often comes across this, did my batteries come from the same batch? of course they did, he said a lot of these small button batteries were stored for so long before use that they work but only last a short time and people don't think to blame the batteries. His suggestion was to always have 2 working fobs.
Or use the original boot lock... I'm mounting mine on the outside instead of the mini lock (photo) but you could put it somewhere on the inside to unlock the doors...? Probably only need the square box wired up and push/pull to lock/unlock.
Jaguartvr wrote:
Central locking update.
I had a really good auto electrician come round as I had saved up a long list of problems, one of them being the central locking.
I had bought a cheap kit off eBay for him to fit. He checked out my key fob and with a tester found the battery was dead. I had replaced the battery when I got the car and when it packed up the first thing I did was change the battery (twice). He said he often comes across this, did my batteries come from the same batch? of course they did, he said a lot of these small button batteries were stored for so long before use that they work but only last a short time and people don't think to blame the batteries. His suggestion was to always have 2 working fobs.
I have been going back and forth on this as well. The 3D printed bracket for the OEM boot lock is a pretty neat idea. I was considering finding a way to retain it so that I could at least use its auto unlock for the rest of the car if I needed to as you have mentioned.
I am more and more leaning to going old school on it though and have come up with a good idea to make the original Ferrari 250 interior door handles that I have function like the original (bock locking and opening).
I realized I haven't posted any progress photos in a while but rest assured I have been busy. Here is what I have been working on:
-Extended the hood scoop back (will make a fiberglass mesh piece for the back)
-Shortened the height of the original doors by about 1.75" and made a small radius on the bottom corner
- Bent up sheet metal boxes to fill the new gaps
-Starting fitting body gaps
-Coilovers will arrive next week so I will get them installed before the rear portion of the car is permanently bonded.
It's a lot of work but makes a big difference, you could put more of a curve in it for not many more hours work.
I done it to my old car and will certainly do it on the next one, looks like it is coming along well.
Thanks! I have been looking at original pictures of the door curve trying to make mine match but it is quite an interesting curve they have put in it. It definitely has derailed my project timing but after fitting the doors back up I think it is definitely worth it.
It was a picture of one of the cars that you had done that made me want to make this change!
Just an update on the current activities. I changed my mind yet again on the fuel filler cap location and decided to go with competition model location. I have spent the past few weeks glassing up the new location, modding the boot lid, and running the filler line. Its worked out really well and is downhill the entire length of the filler line so no fuel should sit in the line. Still need to work on gaps...
I see you have marked out for a bigger rear window, how do you plan to do the bend ?
Thanks Jeff,
I am going to make a mold of how I want the rear window to look and then heat bend lexan to shape.. I plan on posting a separate how-to on the forum in case anyone wants to follow suit. I have done something similar for a boat window but its the same application.
I am going to make a mold of how I want the rear window to look and then heat bend lexan to shape.. I plan on posting a separate how-to on the forum in case anyone wants to follow suit. I have done something similar for a boat window but its the same application.
Cheers
Brilliant, I am sure the knowledge will get re-used.
I am going to make a mold of how I want the rear window to look and then heat bend lexan to shape.
Cheers
I know someone who did the same, it was fine until he took it to a car show on a really hot day and the Lexan window sagged in the middle. In the end he replaced it with an Acrylic Perspex one (perspex having a higher melting point than Lexan)
I have an Acrylic Perspex rear window in my 250 GTO and have not had any heat related problems.
The downside of Perspex is that it scratches a lot easier than Lexan.
Having had a good look at options today on my own SWB build I wondered whether you could please share your thoughts on fuel pipe connection between filler and tank please?
I'm looking at the same position for the filler on mine and wondered if you've come up with a good routing plan?
Having had a good look at options today on my own SWB build I wondered whether you could please share your thoughts on fuel pipe connection between filler and tank please?
I'm looking at the same position for the filler on mine and wondered if you've come up with a good routing plan?
Many thanks in advance!
Hey Gary, I appreciate it! Its slow but steady progress.
I can take some pictures showing what I have done, but I found a good route where the filler line is level and does not have any petrol sitting in the line after fill up.
You run a 90 degree bend out of the tank connection and connect that up to a flexible fuel filler hose. I ran that over the arch of the wheel and then put another 90 degree bend that runs into the boot area. Then you have to run a solid 37" piece of 2" pipe across the top of the boot area where you can 90 into the fuel filler cap. That probably doesn't make sense, but I will take some pictures this evening and share them to give you an idea.
Hey Gary, I appreciate it! Its slow but steady progress.
I can take some pictures showing what I have done, but I found a good route where the filler line is level and does not have any petrol sitting in the line after fill up.
You run a 90 degree bend out of the tank connection and connect that up to a flexible fuel filler hose. I ran that over the arch of the wheel and then put another 90 degree bend that runs into the boot area. Then you have to run a solid 37" piece of 2" pipe across the top of the boot area where you can 90 into the fuel filler cap. That probably doesn't make sense, but I will take some pictures this evening and share them to give you an idea.
Cheers and good luck on the build
OK, interesting and many thanks! I think I understand you (although pics would be most useful too please if you'd be kind enough when you have a mo!).
So another question; Since making these connections have you tried filling the tank up by any chance or is the project still mid-build?
I'm concerned that the fall to the tank won't be enough and as a result at each fuel fill-up the fuel will back up, causing the fuel-pump to cut out mid-fill. Something I'd like to avoid ultimately!
OK, interesting and many thanks! I think I understand you (although pics would be most useful too please if you'd be kind enough when you have a mo!).
So another question; Since making these connections have you tried filling the tank up by any chance or is the project still mid-build?
I'm concerned that the fall to the tank won't be enough and as a result at each fuel fill-up the fuel will back up, causing the fuel-pump to cut out mid-fill. Something I'd like to avoid ultimately!
Many thanks again!
I had the same concern so I have put 5 gallons of petrol through the filler as a test (and also to test for leaks prior to bonding on the rear body of the car) with no issues at full flow.
I had the same concern so I have put 5 gallons of petrol through the filler as a test (and also to test for leaks prior to bonding on the rear body of the car) with no issues at full flow.
Great - similar thinking obviously! If you are able to post a pic or two when you have a mo it would be really appreciated!
Many thanks and I look forward to other updates on your build too!
