This is a read-only archive of the old Madabout Kitcars forum. New posts and replies are no longer possible, but every thread is still here to browse and read.
I used wide masking tape to mark where the various holes needed to be then drilled a hole (large enough for the jig saw blade) in the centre of the part(s) you want to cut out. Its then easy to cut close to the line with the jig saw and finish off with a half round file to neaten up the holes (not that it usually matters as the edge of the instruments cover the edge of the hole anyway).
I really like those alloys I think that every time I see them! I'm tempted to get some Borbet A's as they come up on eBay for good prices, but I'm just not sure if that look would work on a the Sportster.
Dash layout looks nice, you've got a bigger wheel than us so you still see them place there!
What you could do with that extra vacuum hole in the intake boot that connects to the servo is get a one way valve from a later model, block the hole in the intake boot and one of the two in the throttle body and just use the one valve. We've done this on ours - you can get intake boots without the extra hole too:
What you could do with that extra vacuum hole in the intake boot that connects to the servo is get a one way valve from a later model, block the hole in the intake boot and one of the two in the throttle body and just use the one valve. Although it may be more cost effective to just get the extra elbows!
Thanks for the idea Patrick. I never have figured out what all those BMW pipes do apart from provide vacuum to the servo. I've decided to leave well alone on the basis that the designer must of had something in mind to design all those separate parts?
I have fitted a temporary 'loop' until I get some elbows (another for the Stoneliegh shopping list)
Not even the boffins on e30zone can figure out why they used such a complex system! I change it on our as we had the bit left over from the the engine swap in Richards car.
Well, day 2 of my holiday and another day spent down at the lock up.
Today, I refitted the painted AFM bracket, idle control valve and fuel pump relay box. And a temporary 'loop' enabled me to run the engine for the first time since 19 November!
It burst it life and ran well but I noticed a slight hesitation when you floor the gaz pedal from idle? I wonder if it's the angle of the AFM because I don't recall this the last time I ran the engine?
Also fitted the drivers seat so I can now rev the engine with my right foot.
So now I can pretend i'm driving!!
Finally, had a go at trial fitting the scuttle and 'A' panels...........
I spent most of the day working on cleaning up the door welds and making the cut-outs for the catches. Very time consuming and it all took a lot longer than I expected. (Estimating time to do this bodywork stuff is very difficult)
Mounting the catches was fairly straight forward but took time to get just right and neat.
Spent the final couple of hours this afternoon installing additional secruity at my lock-up garage, but for security reasons there are no photographs!! eep:
Bodywork always take longer than you think, I've been fiddling with that for several month Looking good! I messed up a bit putting the latches in - hole on the passenger side door is a bit bigger than it needs to be now... Nothing that can't be fixed later though.
I've been cutting a piece of plywood for my boot floor today....
you have been warned ...............
Hi Peter
So are you going to create a paper template so we can all copy it
Having built a couple of wooden boats from scratch a few years ago (and there isn't a single straight line in a boat) I found there is a very usefull tool when you have to make an irregular shape. Basically its just two pointy sticks clamped together with a big bulldog clip. It allows you to take precise inside dimensions and transfer than to whatever you are cutting out. Works like a big inside caliper.
The other thing I found is that it easy to remove material (ie the wood) but not so easy to stick it back on again if you remove too much LOL.
So are you going to create a paper template so we can all copy it
Having built a couple of wooden boats from scratch a few years ago (and there isn't a single straight line in a boat) I found there is a very usefull tool when you have to make an irregular shape. Basically its just two pointy sticks clamped together with a big bulldog clip. It allows you to take precise inside dimensions and transfer than to whatever you are cutting out. Works like a big inside caliper.
The other thing I found is that it easy to remove material (ie the wood) but not so easy to stick it back on again if you remove too much LOL.
Robin
Hi Robin, good idea about the pointed sticks, it would have been ideal!
I was only thinking tonight about cutting a paper template fot cutting the carpet or lining to go in the 'boot'. I guess I could cut some more but that would spoil all your fun I tried to get a template copy off Simon at Marlin but he was reluctant a said that every car was different. It will depend on the rear tub final position.
Lots of time consuming (and back aching!) little jobs over the last couple of days
* exhaust heatshields fitted
* exhaust joints sealed and re-fitted
* rear lights - earth cables installed
* speedommeter sender wiring
* rear bumper holes drlled and tapped