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This is a read-only archive of the old Madabout Kitcars forum. New posts and replies are no longer possible, but every thread is still here to browse and read.

Tribute Z3gato (?!!)

15 Nov 2017, 11:02am
As the car is not intended to be a replica of a particular model, so e practical features can be taken on board. This will probably be one of them.
15 Nov 2017, 11:07am
Barber - Love the filler caps. :cool:

Plus I like the idea of fitting an extra dummy one to throw people of the scent.

+1 to hoping there isn't any other water damage to worry about.

Good luck, Paul. :)
16 Nov 2017, 8:38am
PaulL: No signs of water damage under the carpets, and the gaffer tape is doing its job for the time being. As it is not too cold today, I may try and get the sealant installed.

I had a good thrash up and down the M4 over the past couple of days. On the way back, the warning triangle light started flashing intermittently, then came on together with the brake warning light. Is this something i can sort myself or should I have an independent repairer look at?

Maintenance is on the last green, roughly how many miles before the Service 2 is required?
17 Nov 2017, 11:26am
The brake warning light probably just means your brake pads have worn down to the wear indicator. Quite easy to check depth of pads visually and changing pads is a fairly straight forward job. I think the warning triangle is just to attract your attention to a fault or warning.
New pads should sort it but worth checking the condition of the disks as they are fairly inexpensive parts.

If your planning on keeping the car then a Bentley Publishers workshop manual is a great investment.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/BMW-Z3-Service-Manual-Roadster/dp/0837616174
17 Nov 2017, 11:48am
+1 on the pads just being worn down, check the fronts first as they wear much more quickly than the rears. Worn pads shouldn't light up the warning triangle. I find that mine lights up quite regularly this time of the year, it's just the wheels spinning on slippery roads, I find it happens much more now that I have higher profile tyres.

Don't worry too much about the service lights, but if you haven't already done it, change the oil. First thing to always do on a new car. The previous owner probably won't have done it it prior to selling and if he has probably has used a cheaper oil.
I always change my oil annually, I don't do great mileages but tend to change the oil at every MOT so I remember when it is done. Everything else I tend to leave until a warning light comes on or it breaks apart from checking the water level.
17 Nov 2017, 12:09pm
Jaguartvr wrote:
...Don't worry too much about the service lights...


Worth getting a "Diagnostic Tool for BMW OBD2 Car Airbag Scan/Oil Service/Inspection Light Reset" currently £6.99 on eBay.

I have a few OBD scan devices but haven't had much luck on my 1999 car. Lots of communication errors. They do show up issues though and enable easy erasure of the fault codes.

I have the full OPCOM setup on a laptop for my Vauxhall but haven't got the BMW software yet.
17 Nov 2017, 12:28pm
Diagnostic Tool for BMW OBD2 Car Airbag Scan/Oil Service/Inspection Light Reset"

Check the connecter under the bonnet!

Mine doesn't have the standard ODB rectangular connection. It has a BMW specific 9 (?) pin round connector.

Funnily enough my brake warning light started flickering on yesterday but it went out when I pressed the brake pedal. I put it down to needing a brake fluid change so will be checking that this weekend.
17 Nov 2017, 12:28pm
Easier said than done.
My facelift has a plug under the dash which the reader connects to without any problem. However for the ABS you have to use the old style round plug under the bonnet, and it won't connect. I have access to a proper reader and still no good. The answer is here

http://techiesexpedition.blogspot.co.uk/2016/01/odb2-on-1999-bmw-z3-2-liters.html

It seems the facelift cars are inbetween the two types of diagnostic.
17 Nov 2017, 12:47pm
I've still got my oil light coming on from time to time. I changed the oil and filter which sorted it for a short time but its coming on again now. Usually after driving it hard for a few miles it will come on. If I stop the car and turn the ignition off and restart, the light won't come on again for the rest of the trip ! I've always been happier with an oil pressure gauge than a light, preferably a mechanical gauge too !
17 Nov 2017, 12:53pm
Well worth replacing the sender unit.
17 Nov 2017, 1:30pm
IanA wrote:
Worth getting a "Diagnostic Tool for BMW OBD2 Car Airbag Scan/Oil Service/Inspection Light Reset" currently £6.99 on eBay.

I have a few OBD scan devices but haven't had much luck on my 1999 car. Lots of communication errors. They do show up issues though and enable easy erasure of the fault codes.

I have the full OPCOM setup on a laptop for my Vauxhall but haven't got the BMW software yet.


IIRC the BMW M52 and M54 engines are not fully OBD2 compliant.

I invested in a Peake Research code reader and it works brilliantly. A bit pricey but well worth it. Secondhand ones do come up on ebay as people trade up to newer cars.
http://www.peakeresearch.com/

Anyone near J9 on the M1 is welcome to pop in and have their codes read :lol:
17 Nov 2017, 1:44pm
Does it read the ABS codes on the round plug under the bonnet?
I just can't find a reader that will read them.
17 Nov 2017, 2:21pm
WorldClassAccident wrote:
Diagnostic Tool for BMW OBD2 Car Airbag Scan/Oil Service/Inspection Light Reset" Check the connecter under the bonnet!...


My MY2000 car has various wiring idiosyncrasies (for that model only) and has both under-dash "D" and under-bonnet "O" sockets. I have an adapter so can hook up the scanners to either. Similar results though.
17 Nov 2017, 2:35pm
Jaguartvr wrote:
... The answer is here

http://techiesexpedition.blogspot.co.uk/2016/01/odb2-on-1999-bmw-z3-2-liters.html
It seems the facelift cars are in between the two types of diagnostic.


Useful info- it explains why the auto electrician trying to trace the probs with my hazard flashers yesterday couldn't see all of the modules- he thought something was more seriously wrong. At least he didn't charge because of it...
17 Nov 2017, 2:53pm
Did you replace the flasher unit, cheap 2nd hand on eBay, expensive used.
I toasted mine, opened it up but rather than being a flasher unit it is a proper circuit board.
17 Nov 2017, 3:14pm
Lucky@LeMans wrote:
I've still got my oil light coming on from time to time. I changed the oil and filter which sorted it for a short time but its coming on again now. Usually after driving it hard for a few miles it will come on. If I stop the car and turn the ignition off and restart, the light won't come on again for the rest of the trip ! I've always been happier with an oil pressure gauge than a light, preferably a mechanical gauge too !


Whoops, :thumb:
17 Nov 2017, 3:15pm
peterux wrote:
The brake warning light probably just means your brake pads have worn down to the wear indicator. Quite easy to check depth of pads visually and changing pads is a fairly straight forward job. I think the warning triangle is just to attract your attention to a fault or warning.
New pads should sort it but worth checking the condition of the disks as they are fairly inexpensive parts.

If your planning on keeping the car then a Bentley Publishers workshop manual is a great investment.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/BMW-Z3-Service-Manual-Roadster/dp/0837616174


Great, thanks for the information and the tip.
17 Nov 2017, 3:19pm
Jaguartvr wrote:
+1 on the pads just being worn down, check the fronts first as they wear much more quickly than the rears. Worn pads shouldn't light up the warning triangle. I find that mine lights up quite regularly this time of the year, it's just the wheels spinning on slippery roads, I find it happens much more now that I have higher profile tyres.

Don't worry too much about the service lights, but if you haven't already done it, change the oil. First thing to always do on a new car. The previous owner probably won't have done it it prior to selling and if he has probably has used a cheaper oil.
I always change my oil annually, I don't do great mileages but tend to change the oil at every MOT so I remember when it is done. Everything else I tend to leave until a warning light comes on or it breaks apart from checking the water level.


I have been speccing up a DIY kit utilising the top syphon pump. I know is uses an extra couple of litres of oil, but it means I won't have to be scrabbling around under the car. However, if the front break pads need changing, then I may have to get it up on some ramps. Is there really an issue about front skirt clearance with the Z3?
17 Nov 2017, 3:21pm
IanA wrote:
Worth getting a "Diagnostic Tool for BMW OBD2 Car Airbag Scan/Oil Service/Inspection Light Reset" currently £6.99 on eBay.

I have a few OBD scan devices but haven't had much luck on my 1999 car. Lots of communication errors. They do show up issues though and enable easy erasure of the fault codes.

I have the full OPCOM setup on a laptop for my Vauxhall but haven't got the BMW software yet.


For that price, it is definitely worth a punt.
17 Nov 2017, 3:29pm
I always use a syphon pump, makes changing the oil a breeze. Doesn't use any more oil, will start syphoning when the container is empty.
No problem to get most jacks under the side jacking points.
17 Nov 2017, 10:09pm
peterux wrote:
The brake warning light probably just means your brake pads have worn down to the wear indicator. [/url]


I should have mentioned that it might just be the brake fluid being too low?
17 Nov 2017, 10:13pm
If the brake pads have worn the brake fluid will be low. As soon as you fit the new pads the brake fluid will go back to normal level.
I tend to look at the brake fluid level to guage how worn the pads are without scrabbling under the car.
18 Nov 2017, 12:50pm
Jaguartvr wrote:
Did you replace the flasher unit, cheap 2nd hand on eBay, expensive used. I toasted mine, opened it up but rather than being a flasher unit it is a proper circuit board.


Yes- changed the relay and the console switch. Next job- change the indicator switch.
18 Nov 2017, 3:15pm
If anyone wants to borrow the round under bonnet connecter, i have a basic one in Southampton I use to reset service and oil lights.
20 Nov 2017, 11:10am
Barber wrote:
One of the style features I liked from the various marques, is the dual filler caps on the Astons. A little bit of an extravagance, but worth it I think. Obviously the nearside one doesn't have to function, and the offside one is lockable, and has the through funnel.

Now I have to get the boring gubbins on the underside, based on JagTVRs work. On the Astons, the filler caps are slightly further back than on the 250 SWBs so not sure if that will have an impact. I'll have to discuss with Chris.



These are Mocal ones from Burton Power, £258 for the pair.

Wheels and tyres next most likely, as Chris needs them for when the panel work commences after Christmas. I should be getting the dashboard to be fitting during December.

All the advise about getting the donor in good time is well given. On Saturday morning, after a heavy night's rain, and light drizzle on the way to meet up with an old schoolpal, I discovered a very soggy floor mat on the driver side. I should have guessed something was amiss when the seller threw in a very nice car cover when I bought the car.

It looks like it is the windshield cowl, there is a 2mm gap at the centre for a stretch of several inches. In searching for remedies, came across Captain Tolleys Creeping Crack Cure, which caused much hilarity amongst friends and family.

I don't think I will have to take the cowl off, one posting says you can use a putty knife to get under the cowl and insert the nozzle of a non silicone sealant. Whilst I wait for samples of both that and the Captains remedy (I couldn't resist) to arrive, - black gaffer tape to the rescue. I am not proud.


Sadly, the containers of Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Remedy do not have such a lurid description on the label. Ah well, that is the joke Christmas present idea out of the window. I have just ordered marine fuel pipe and bends, with a short stretch of stainless steel pipe to assemble the new fuel line "a la JagTVR". And waiting on quotations for wheels and tyres - I am going the ericholm route here.