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volvo p1800 into ferrari 275gtb nart spyder: v12, 5spd, tube chassis
Get them posted to one of us in the U.K. And we'll ship them
Done loads of times for guys on my motorbike forum
Happy to assist in anyway I can
Funny you mention bikes... I've built a bunch of classic sohc 4 cylinder hondas and setting up the carbs is a lot of work! I do love the look and sound of carburetors but for reliability sake getting the fuel injection going will be the best bet. I can dress it up, or dress it down rather, for a more period/racing look.
Incredibly impressive work! These folks can help with the body: http://www.hietbrink.com/. (Click on "models" on the left side of the home page to see some examples of their work, including a 275 GTB).
I'm sure that you already have this planned for the future, but you should incorporate rubber bushings into the motor and transmission mounts to avoid transmitting vibration into the chassis rails.
Incredibly impressive work! These folks can help with the body: http://www.hietbrink.com/. (Click on "models" on the left side of the home page to see some examples of their work, including a 275 GTB).
Thanks for sharing that site! Beautiful alloy body.
The engine mounts have 2" rubber doughnuts and the trans mount is a clamshell style mount with a rubber isolator. It's a bit hard to see in the photos.
tight fit
To finish the firewall I'm still unsure if I want to seam weld and dress all the welds or just tack it every inch or so and neatly mask and seam seal.
I have some progress on getting the car steering again and I finally started on the rear axle upgrade as well.
The steering column and wheel are from a saturn vue with power assist (obviously). It was really straight forward to fit up. I forgot to document how I did the mounting brackets but it was very simple.
I was able to use the factory firewall grommit as luck would have it it
The shaft already had a splined to 3/4"dd joint where it attached to the steering rack on the saturn. It was also the perfect length and that made it easy to connect to the stainless steering shaft material I purchased. I am going to anchor the section of steering shaft that runs parallel to the inside of the frame rail using a 3/4" heim joint. I will weld a threaded bung in the frame and the heim will thread in to that. It will also allow the steering shaft to be pushed off the frame rail a little bit as well. You can see there is some interference with the joint and the frame rail close to where it comes through the firewall.
Next I have started on the rear axle. As I may have mentioned earlier it is out of a late 90s ford explorer. Disk brake 3.73 gears, 31 spline axles. It was originally 59.5" but by cutting down the driver's side axle tube and using another passenger axle I could make it 56.5" to match the front axle width.
no turning back now...
Using a little angle iron on either side allowed me to keep everything true while I tacked it up. I used a straight edge on the axle tube all the way around the circumference to double check as well.
Now I can move on to fitting it up in the car with adjustable link bars and brackets.
I took the car to a friend's shop who does roll cages and traded him some welding work for this. *We bent and tacked some 1 *5/8" down bars to connect the A pillars to the frame rails. * It's surprising how much this changes the look of the car at it's current state. *Even though these bars will not likely be seen once the body is on I'm pleased with the design, clearance, and finished look. * It also gives me something to build the radiator and bumper*support from- I'm thinking I may make that removable so the engine is easier to remove and install later. *I will be finishing the welds on the down bars soon and will seal up and epoxy prime the front end, firewall and floors. *There's a little surface rust starting to develop, especially after transporting the car in this humidity, and I want to nip that*in the bud before it gets out of control. **