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Craig have a word with Chris regarding the lights and fitment. A few have used these lights in fact I too purchased a pair for my own build I actually did a deal with Chris for them as by the time I picked up the car and many photoshop variants I decided it wasn't for me so he took them of my hands so he'll be the best person on how best to fit them if you are unsure. Jaguar tvr do look a good buy as any sold are incomplete at the rear
3) Start a post on here with [img ] but without the space after the g
4) Paste the Image Location you copied from Photoibucket
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if you area sing photobucket open the image you want on the right side are 4 url address codes just copy the bottom one ...Img code..paste it in your threads he photo will show directly once the thread is uploaded. No extra IMG codes to worry about
At last something that Eric hasn't covered!
Chris had this already attached to his mule when I collected which was a great help. Very simple to fit, keep the outside two uprights level with the boot lip and central then grip with a pair of mole grips. I then levelled it up with a spirit level, or the modern version off, there is an iPhone app for a spirit level, it is free and very useful.
Once gripped just drill through and attack with self tapping bolts, it really is as easy as that.
I've got the posting pictures sorted now, in fact it is so easy I thought I might post up all my thousands of holiday snaps, starting with a picture of me in my mankini, if you all send me money, I promise not to
Fitting the hinges took less than 15 minutes, I can imagine how long it took to fit the outside hinges, lots of fiddling getting the measurements exact. It does look more like a production car without the exterior hinges.
Spoke to SGS yesterday and ordered a pair of uprated bonnet gas struts. The bonnet now stays up with the small bonnet in place and the front grill assembly balanced on top. I think it could do with a little pressure released later but I won't do that until everything is bolted on.
The standard BMW gas struts are 750 Newtons, the new ones are 1200 Newtons but have an allen key bleed grab screw so you can lower the pressure if needs be, the most important bit is that the bonnet now stays open on it's own, no need for old walking sticks or broom handles.
SGS 01332 576850
If you quote invoice 281326 you will get the right parts which are
2x GSV10-150
2x B3
2xE10
The struts take less than 10 minutes to fit and cost £57.84 including next day delivery
One addition benefit of the uprated struts is that now the bonnet releases on the original bonnet pins and springs so you don't need to buy the Land Rover version.
Anyone want to buy a nice pair of Land Rover springs?
I've got the posting pictures sorted now, in fact it is so easy I thought I might post up all my thousands of holiday snaps, starting with a picture of me in my mankini, if you all send me money, I promise not to
Goes down a bomb in Vegas, I speak as an observer though.
Having seen everybody cut the slots with drills I thought there has got to be an easier and quicker way. There is! I used one of the small cut off tools, around £35, they are designed to trim door trims when fitting wood flooring.
I was going to place a thin piece of alloy under the blade so as not to damage the bonnet, this was not needed, the teeth are all on the top of the blade so I just rested it on the bonnet itself and no damage was done.
Use it as a plunge cutter, the blade is wide and thick enough so it doesn't flex giving a straight cut. For the top cut I just cut from the inside of the bonnet.
You can see from the top cut that the thickness of the layup of the GRP varies, this is quite normal.
I then swapped to a smaller blade for the vertical cuts, this blade was a bit too wide so I made the cuts at an angle to take out as much material as possible.
I then took out the excess material with an air die grinder and then ran it along the inside edges to get them roughly straight.
Finished result, only took 20 minutes from start to finish, obviously it will need final finishing. I haven't fitted a grill, it is just the patio table I was working on. I wonder if she would notice a small bit missing?
I would like to try and run the lower section of the opening into the opening about 25mm, I think it would neaten it up but will cause quite a bit more work.
I will be using the same method for the slots in the wings although I have bought some alloy finishers so they will hide any bodgery in cutting the slots.
I've been looking forward to this bit even though I know it is going to be one of the trickier bits.
And the cunning plan is
VELCRO!
I've put 5 bits of velcro on the door skin, I've then attached the other half of the velcro to the part already stuck on the door. I've laid a 3mm steel flat bar on the sill and then placed the door skin as accurately as possible to the door, push hard to get the velcro to stick to the door and then remove the door and firmly press the velcro down.
You can then position the door skin as many times as you like in seconds. You can also open and close the door to check it isn't scraping against the bonnet.
I Know, I know, what a genius!!
Once I get the position spot on, I will drill a 4.2 mm hole in the edge of the door in 2 positions, 1 either side and glue a pop rivet with the centre steel removed. This way I have 2 fixed points to hang the door skin on accurately.
Wow, you are certainly motoring on, you won't believe how quickly you can get it roadworthy. Thanks for the pictures as well, looks like you are dodging the rain showers.
I am really interested in the gas struts as I need a good fix for that so would love to see it working when you have all of the lights, etc on it. Are you putting spots into the grill area, or bumpers? Also are they a like for like in terms of position and fitting?
Ha ha, I just read that you are covering something I haven't, there will be plenty of those for sure, my boot hinges are external and yes it took loads of time measuring before nervously drilling the right location
Will be following the build closely as we can all still learn things, for sure.
Bonnet, front grill and front bumper sold £205, takes the car down to £570.
So far everything has bolted together perfectly, I haven't had to re drill a single hole.
The doors rub very slightly when opening, I need to remove some material from the rear of the bonnet and build it up on the front of the door.
It's been raining on and off all day so I would think I've spent 4 hours on it today.
So long as it doesn't rain tomorrow I'll have a go at the boot floor.
I intend to invert the impact bar making the top lower, this should make the boot floor much more level. I am then going to trim the back of the boot to make it look more like one boot rather than a sub divided boot. Not to bothered about the finish of the boot floor infill as it will be carpeted. I will try and add some strengtheners under the boot floor.
To anyone contemplating a build, go ahead it really is straight forward, the 250swbc is very easy as there is no bonding involved. Chris reckoned the Kobra was even easier and more straight forward. (He did say the new 275 would be very, very tricky to build and only for really expert builders)
So far 4 hours to strip and 4 hours to build back up. This is about the amount of time that it took me replace the handbrake cable and get the handbrake working well enough to pass the MOT, sort of puts it into perspective.
Going to have a go at modifying the boot floor today.
Wow, you are certainly motoring on, you won't believe how quickly you can get it roadworthy. Thanks for the pictures as well, looks like you are dodging the rain showers.
I am really interested in the gas struts as I need a good fix for that so would love to see it working when you have all of the lights, etc on it. Are you putting spots into the grill area, or bumpers? Also are they a like for like in terms of position and fitting?
Ha ha, I just read that you are covering something I haven't, there will be plenty of those for sure, my boot hinges are external and yes it took loads of time measuring before nervously drilling the right location
Will be following the build closely as we can all still learn things, for sure.
All the best,
The struts are a straight swap, the only difference is that the rod is 10mm rather than 8mm to take the extra pressure. The old struts will only just support the weight of the front end without the bonnet. With the bonnet and grill assembly in pace the new struts hold the front open easily, more than enough force left to allow for the spotlights. As I mentioned previously it also has enough lift that when pop the bonnet and release the bonnet catch the front rises with no effort. Before I was pulling hard on the bonnet and realise at the same time and was still struggling to get the bonnet open. No need to bother with Land Rover bonnet springs.
Another 10 minute job.
To anyone contemplating a build, go ahead it really is straight forward, the 250swbc is very easy as there is no bonding involved. Chris reckoned the Kobra was even easier and more straight forward. (He did say the new 275 would be very, very tricky to build and only for really expert builders)
So far 4 hours to strip and 4 hours to build back up. This is about the amount of time that it took me replace the handbrake cable and get the handbrake working well enough to pass the MOT, sort of puts it into prospective.
Going to have a go at modifying the boot floor today.
Jag, thanks for posting your build, the information is really useful and reinforces the advise given previously, that this is do-able by a careful beginner. I know that there is still work to do, but 1 working day to get the old panels off and the new ones on and aligned is stunning wrt build process. How much more do you reckon it takes to get it driveable? Even if you double or triple the time for caution/inexperience, it is clearly not something that need take months on a part time basis.
For all kit builders, this is invaluable in making decisions about make/buy services, and the amount of discretionary spend available for the bling. I am very interested to see how the paint job progresses.
Probably a day to wire the lights in, not a hard job but will take some time.
Door lock shouldn't take long but a small problem could add hours.
Fitting the standard boot floor shouldn't be more than an hour, with my modifications it could take a couple of days to allow for the extra GRP work.
My bonnet is fractionally wide at the point where it meats the sills. I certainly do not think it will need the 7mm cut. I think if you do do the 7mm cut it could well cause stress fractures or cracks in the outer skin. If I do resort to cutting a slot to massage the lower edge in I will do I think 3 separate slots to spread out any stress. I also think that just one large cut could also result in a feelable (if that makes sense) line in the outer panel. This would probably show after it was painted. The finish of the panels out of the moods is very,very good.
Apart from being given a hand mounting the bonnet, everything is down to just me which does make it a little harder.
Build it without any modifications, start on a Friday evening and there should be no reason why you shouldn't be taking a test drive on Sunday evening!
From placing the order it took six weeks to get the kit increasing with better weather coming and lots of positive articles about Tribute the waiting time I'm sure will increase.
It does give you time to order all the parts that you need. You can plan the wiring, what lights and door handles you will use. Having this all laid out on a bench (or scattered over the garage floor in my case) helps greatly with the build time.
Only major thing I haven't ordered is the fuel filler. I love the look of where Smash's fuel filler is positioned but couldn't live with the awful bend under the wing. I have a few ideas but need to get the boot floor nailed down first.
You're only down the road in Camberley so if you want a peek just let me know, but be warned, your wallet will be twitching on the way home!
Doesn't look like they are sending, are you getting anything from me? Off to work now until this evening. I'd love to come and see the fleet. I could arrange next week. Day or evening best? I can arrange my week to suit, otherwise mostly out west.
Probably a day to wire the lights in, not a hard job but will take some time.
Door lock shouldn't take long but a small problem could add hours.
Fitting the standard boot floor shouldn't be more than an hour, with my modifications it could take a couple of days to allow for the extra GRP work.
My bonnet is fractionally wide at the point where it meats the sills. I certainly do not think it will need the 7mm cut. I think if you do do the 7mm cut it could well cause stress fractures or cracks in the outer skin. If I do resort to cutting a slot to massage the lower edge in I will do I think 3 separate slots to spread out any stress. I also think that just one large cut could also result in a feelable (if that makes sense) line in the outer panel. This would probably show after it was painted. The finish of the panels out of the moods is very,very good.
Apart from being given a hand mounting the bonnet, everything is down to just me which does make it a little harder.
Build it without any modifications, start on a Friday evening and there should be no reason why you shouldn't be taking a test drive on Sunday evening!
From placing the order it took six weeks to get the kit increasing with better weather coming and lots of positive articles about Tribute the waiting time I'm sure will increase.
It does give you time to order all the parts that you need. You can plan the wiring, what lights and door handles you will use. Having this all laid out on a bench (or scattered over the garage floor in my case) helps greatly with the build time.
Only major thing I haven't ordered is the fuel filler. I love the look of where Smash's fuel filler is positioned but couldn't live with the awful bend under the wing. I have a few ideas but need to get the boot floor nailed down first.
You're only down the road in Camberley so if you want a peek just let me know, but be warned, your wallet will be twitching on the way home!
Spent about 3 hours on it today, doesn't look like much progress but a major modification made.
First was to modify the alloy crash bar at the rear. I worked out that if I turned it upside down I could probably get a flat boot floor. I got to use my favourite tools, a small hammer and a little heat
Unfortunately it proved harder to bend than I thought so I cut a bit out. I needed to remove a section so that it would clear the spare wheel which I am keeping.
Needed to trim the towing eye to fit the crash bar back on. (just above the exhaust)
this leaves plenty of room for the spare wheel. I then trimmed the rear panel, the fold is just about level with the crash bar, I managed to take it out in 1 piece with an angle grinder using a 1mm cutting disc. .
Then choped the original boot panel into 3, mounted the main piece directly to the crash bar and the 2 side pieces to the rear boot section with self tappers.
Covered the gaps with duct tape and laid some GRP on top.
Still a couple of layers to put on. Not worried about the appearance, want it fixed on nice and strong. The boot floor is going to be carpeted so will hide any "bodgering".
It would be nice to have a trap door in either side to access the rear lights but little sidetracks like this take time and I don't want to get side tracked.
