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There's a good discussion here on one of the other SWB build threads (I don't think it was Geoff's).
I seem to remember the narrow cars are about 25mm narrower each side, but a search should find the measurements you need.
I stand corrected! Looks like you can just about get splined wires on without mods although I reserve judgement until I see them on the car with tyres, lol!
The only car with a narrower rear axle is the 1.9 pre face lift - all the others are the same width
Seeing as we're on the subject of wheels (see what I did there) - Mrs Christmas delivered this Nardi style wheel and horn push.
I must admit I had thought I was going to leave the interior entirely stock but I can see that the stock seats (no matter how comfortable and electrically magnificent!) will look wrong so inspired by Nubodi's interior changes I'm looking for different seats.
Quick fix are OMP Silverstone retro buckets
But after a lot of trawling I found these Kirkey retro bucket seats which are very similar in shape to the original 250 seats
But there's then the additional cost of trimming - I did find one set someone had custom trimmed so you get the idea
Then there's also these Shelby Daytona seats but boy do they have a price tag!
Anyone found anything similar to the real thing on a budget?(yeah I know, I know!)
I did wonder about chopping the original seats down and retrimming in order to keep all the electrics and comfort level....
Also just starting work on Veglia 250 style "instrument set" for the Z3 binnacle.
The adapter price doesn't look too high. I think mine cost £110 a corner.
Not sure what torque you can put through wires but mine are 1950's from an Aston Martin and have had full throttle acceleration and driven at over 130mph, on a private road obviously, without ill effect
That helps a little but the most useful dimension you need is the "back face". Once you know this for your old wheels and the your proposed new wheels you can work out where it will all end up.
I think the problem with the 250 SWB is body line when viewed from above is only a very short distance out from the wheel disc hub. The result is it all sticks out too far when you have the spline adaptors on.
That helps a little but the most useful dimension you need is the "back face". Once you know this for your old wheels and the your proposed new wheels you can work out where it will all end up.
No, it's not. We're discussing wheel poke to ensure wheelarch clearance, and the necessary dimensions are total wheel width (not the J dimension) and the wheel offset.
The back face dimension is required to ascertain whether there's sufficient clearance from the inner rim to suspension components and bodyshell when on lock. Knowing the wheel width and ET dimension it's easy to calculate the backface dimension.
Lucky@LeMans wrote:
I think the problem with the 250 SWB is body line when viewed from above is only a very short distance out from the wheel disc hub. The result is it all sticks out too far when you have the spline adaptors on.
Which is the point made above by WCA, Smash and Mr T, and is why Richard has commissioned special lower offset spline adapters. But even so, you're going to need extended arches or a narrow rear hub conversion of you want to fit wheels with a large offset.
...even so, you're going to need extended arches or a narrow rear hub conversion of you want to fit wheels with a large offset.
...or you could just use a pre-facelift 1.9 donor to start with. After all, in terms of power produced against capacity, it's a far more efficient engine than the 2.8.
I did actually bid on a out run 1.9 year 2000 Z3 that had had 2.8 engine running gear swap so would've been ideal for SWB - typically I missed the end of the auction!
...or you could just use a pre-facelift 1.9 donor to start with. After all, in terms of power produced against capacity, it's a far more efficient engine than the 2.8.
Queue WCA...
Good idea. Fine engine, the 1.9 - based on the one BMW used to build their 1000bhp Grand Prix motors
No, it's not. We're discussing wheel poke to ensure wheelarch clearance, and the necessary dimensions are total wheel width (not the J dimension) and the wheel offset.
The back face dimension is required to ascertain whether there's sufficient clearance from the inner rim to suspension components and bodyshell when on lock. Knowing the wheel width and ET dimension it's easy to calculate the backface dimension.
Which is the point made above by WCA, Smash and Mr T, and is why Richard has commissioned special lower offset spline adapters. But even so, you're going to need extended arches or a narrow rear hub conversion of you want to fit wheels with a large offset.
I'm sticking to my guns on this. Its the way I have always worked out wheel fitment , it can be calculated both ways .
You can only go so far with the hub adaptors. You have to look at other options if that still isn't enough.
It wouldn't be too difficult to narrow the axle on the Z3. The mounting points for the rear arm could be moved in an inch or two. Along with a short drive shaft you could easily fit the 6" Cobra 289 wires.
Must not bite, Must not bite, Must not bite, Must not bite, Must not bite, Must not bite, Must not bite...
Damn it, I can't help myself
Fine engine, the 1.9 - based on the one BMW used to build their 1000bhp Grand Prix motors
The Hippo and the Horse share the same basic starting point, just like the engines in a 1.9 Z3 and the GP motor...
:-)
HaHa, you were resisting it so well for a while ;-)
But don't forget that the M43/44 series motor that you so hate so much is based on the M10 which derived the M12 Grand Prix motor that produced 1500bhp or more (there wasn't a Dyno available in the 80s that could measure more than 1500 horse) in qualifying trim from 1500cc!
I'm sticking to my guns on this. Its the way I have always worked out wheel fitment , it can be calculated both ways .
Good for you , and of course you can calculate it from the backspace dimension but it's not a sensible way to measure the poke of the wheel, particularly as you have to take off a wheel and physically measure the backspace from the hub mounting face and then subtract this from the overall width of the wheel to find out how much it pokes out!! Backspace is used to measure inside clearance.
The ET and wheel dimensions are cast on the wheel so no measuring is needed using the method I suggested!
Lucky@LeMans wrote:
It wouldn't be too difficult to narrow the axle on the Z3. The mounting points for the rear arm could be moved in an inch or two. Along with a short drive shaft you could easily fit the 6" Cobra 289 wires.
Get a grip! This can be much more easily done by replacing the rear hubs and drums from our beloved 2.8 cars with those from the hateful 1.9.
I did actually bid on a out run 1.9 year 2000 Z3 that had had 2.8 engine running gear swap so would've been ideal for SWB - typically I missed the end of the auction!
I seem to recall seeing an early 1.9 with an E30 325i straight six grafted in on ebay recently. I think it sold for about £750.
Could be an option worth considering: MOT failed 320i or 325i plus engine blown/damaged/missing Z3 1.9 = cheap donor for 250SWB + pile of cash from selling off unwanted parts from both cars.
And hopefully no hate-mail about your engine choice...
I thought we were all being nice to each other now!
I'm not sure if the 1.9 conversion would give you enough space or not.
Yes you could convert the 1.9 to a straight 6 but it would be loads of work by the time everything is connected up. Just bite the bullet and buy a straight 6 from the word go!!
*I have decided to cut down my drinking for January to pay for the paint job on my Z300SWB bonnet. This explains my confession. Normal ranting will be resumed when I am back on the booze.
I thought we were all being nice to each other now!
Didn't mean to upset you, just offering another way to do things
Importantly, you don't have to listen as your opinion is equally as important as mine. Though mine is better
Well SNG Barratt, whilst exclusive UK dealers for Dayton wheels - they actually only do the Jag ones and then only splined, not the bolt ons.
Turrino came back and quoted....£850 plus VAT per wheel for bespoke but said most economic would be start from "stock" jag and machine the spiggot so we'll see what the price comes in like.
Have you asked MWS to quote for building you something bespoke too? In my experience (of looking not buying), they'll be cheaper than Turrino - who appear only to do chromed wheels/
Also, Peter Richards Brothers wheels are well respected in the classic car field: http://www.richards-bros.com/
UNIT 6. Hedel Road-CANTON-CARDIFF
CF11 8DJ. WALES. U. K.
Tel +44 (0)29 2022 9945
Fax +44 (0)29 2022 0717
