MadaboutKitcars

They look like steering wheels with tyres fitted.

Mike - I hope all goes well with this build (and the DVLA paperwork).

There is definitely some about these type of trikes that says "British eccentricity".

Good luck, Paul.

Paul L These little cars are quite fun to drive as it's foot-to-the-floor every where you go.

DVLA should be OK as the chassis is unaltered as nothing is welded to in only bolted and most of the original parts are used in the build.
The only problem I might have is finding a photo of the original 2CV before the body was removed.

Finally got the cage frame finished.



It all sits nicely on the original chassis, the coil-over suspension works well and there's plenty of support to the body panels.



The whole cage frame simply bolts to the outer chassis rails using the original body fixing points which should keep DVLA happy. eace:



The seats are going to be the next challenge as I'm not sure weather to go with single seats or a bench seat!!

Ooh, I do like that. Nice work.

Now all the important controls are in place I can start to sort out the seats

.

I just could not get them too right feel and every thing just felt wrong so I waited until a friend call-in for a cuppa and asked him to try out the seating.
He thought the seat was OK and liked the LEFT HAND DRIVE set-up.

LEFT HAND DRIVE!!

I'v been building this for 3 week and until now did not notice I'd built a left hooker!!!!



No wonder the seating position felt odd!!.
What a plonker!!

Should have gone to Specsavers.

Your so right, I'v even put the last photos on the wrong listing.
Here's a second attempt.

Boot hinged giving maximum access.


Bonner hinged and split keeping the dash area fixed.


The bulkhead is almost completed.

I'm very pleased the way the rear lights fit the body recesses.



In fact I'm so pleased I'v taken a mould so I can retro fit them on something else later.

Very nice indeed!

Good progress

Thanks for you comments so far.

It's been fun building this but lack of workshop space and time means it'll have to go on the back burner for a while.

I did get some headlights for it.





They were originally for a tractor. !

Looking good!

Been having a clear out at the unit and this just shows how some people just can't take things seriously !!



There must be a caption for this

We have spent the last few days trying to fire-up this little engine but all attempts have failed.
It would cough and splutter but just not run so after doing the usual stuff like carburettor, point's, condenser, coil, plugs ect we checked the compression.
We found 80psi on one cylinder and 60psi on the other so although it sounded like it had enough compression and it was "sucking" through the carb, it was actually border line.!!

We stripped the cylinders down to investigate the low compression.



And soon found the problem.



It's been a long time since I'v seen piston ring that gummed-up.

After soaking them in diesel over night and applying plenty of heat they refused to budge.
Finally all the rings had to be removed with a hammer and small chisel not ideal but needs must!.

As we are still waiting for the new piston rings to arrive, we put some effort into the steering .

Refitted and secured the steering column and also added a brace to stop the end float at the steering wheel.



As a bonus the original dash still fits.



I think it's the brakes next !

The new piston rings finally arrived so fitting commenced


Unlike most engines, the piston needs to be fitted to the conrod before assembly as the conrod remains fixed to the crank. plus the fact there is very little room to get to the gudgeon pin/clip once the barrel is placed over the piston and rings.

Also unlike other engines, when fitting the piston it is sandwiched between the barrel and crankcase again limiting the space to work.
A simple block of ply under the piston stops it from retracting back into the crankcase when the barrel is placed over it.



The piston ring compressor is a special tool because there is little room and a standard ring compressor will not fit.



Both cylinder are now back together.



The engine now spins over with plenty of compression so starting it shouldn't be an issue. ray2:

Just out of interest, the only gaskets and new seals needed in this top end rebuild were 4x valve steam seals, 2x seals at the bottom of the pushrod tubes, 6x brass washers under the cylinder head studs, 6x copper washers on the rocker oil feed pipe, 2x gasket under the rocker covers and finally 4x manifold gaskets!.

Lovely job. Might those superb wheels have been built for a horse-drawn carriage, or did you make them yourself? Why did you dump the superb Citroen front suspension for coil-overs? My Ami8 van would out corner most things, as long as you kept your foot in it!

I can't remember where the wheels come from but I didn't make them.
I will try them on the completed car but stick with plain 2CV wheels for now.

The standard Citroen suspension is fine and much improved if a ARB is fitted but for this build I thought coil-overs were the better opinion piratically on the rear axle unit.

The back end is finally complete.
Now with fuel tank , fuel filler, brake lines and wiring all in place and all under the boot lid.
At some point it will have to be boxed-in and a full mudguard fitted to give some space for a little stowage area .



Had to make the new wiring loom from starch. .



I have kept the dash lay-out as basic as I could and used the original 2CV speedo.

I'm liking that!

I have now added a cowl to cover up the steering column.





Most of the wiring is now also complete and the throttle and choke cables have also been installed. .

The front mudguards on this little car were always going to be "cycle" style but this presents a problem on a 2CV because there's no where to mount them.
And as an extra problem I particularly wanted the mudguards to be a snug fit to the wheel which means they must move and turn with the wheel. hwell:

I started by making a mould from a old steel mudguard which fitted the wheel and added an extra bit of board to form a side panel.



This left me with a usable mudguard the correct size for the wheel and a side panel to bolt it on with.
As the mould was not "handed" I was able to make both mudguards from the same mould and simply turn them around to suit each side.
The visible cut-out is to clear the steering arm.



I fabricated a bracket which bolted to the hub on top of the steering link arm.
The mudguard stays (which fitted the front and rear of the mudguard) where welded to this bracket.

R/H side



L/H side.



I left about 10mm between the stays and the wheel so the mudguard would fit in-between.
When all bolted up and painted black I think they look OK.



Both mudguards fit the wheel as if they where made for the job.



The mounting bracket are only made of light weight material but then so are the mudguards so every think should work well together.

Also finished the reworking of the scuttle panel.



Still a few more major jobs to do but it coming along nicely.

great job! Coming along nicely.

Very nice. Good problem solving, I did wonder with inboard brakes. Looks very good.