1 Dec 2015, 10:06am
Stunning, one to follow...
Ozi 206 dino
10 Jul 2016, 1:09am
Thought I would update the progress.
After making the rear frame I needed to finalize the engine location so I made the conversion plate.
I opted to use a Subaru 5 speed transaxle modified to drive out of the front diff only.
I measured the dowls on the Subaru box and Nissan engine.
Machining a 32mm hole in the centre allows me to put a spigot bearing in then after drilling the dowls I can drop the box on and check it fits.
The rest of the plate holes are transfer punched, scribe and cut on the band saw, then linished.
The inner hole I used a pattern fixed to the plate then ran around the inside with a router.
When The engine comes out the plate will be heavily drilled out to reduce the weight
After making the rear frame I needed to finalize the engine location so I made the conversion plate.
I opted to use a Subaru 5 speed transaxle modified to drive out of the front diff only.
I measured the dowls on the Subaru box and Nissan engine.
Machining a 32mm hole in the centre allows me to put a spigot bearing in then after drilling the dowls I can drop the box on and check it fits.
The rest of the plate holes are transfer punched, scribe and cut on the band saw, then linished.
The inner hole I used a pattern fixed to the plate then ran around the inside with a router.
When The engine comes out the plate will be heavily drilled out to reduce the weight
10 Jul 2016, 1:24am
Engine and suspension mounts.
I use a suspension bush for the mounts, I used them on my GT40 and they cost $24 and they last.
The bush presses into the cup that I machined out of a bar,it has a 2mm wall.
The brackets mounted on the block are sheet steel 3mm base plate and 2mm bracket.
The engine has 4 mounts in total, the gearbox mount is part of the rear crossmember.
I use a suspension bush for the mounts, I used them on my GT40 and they cost $24 and they last.
The bush presses into the cup that I machined out of a bar,it has a 2mm wall.
The brackets mounted on the block are sheet steel 3mm base plate and 2mm bracket.
The engine has 4 mounts in total, the gearbox mount is part of the rear crossmember.
10 Jul 2016, 1:38am
Suspension mounts.
The upper lateral link is made with adjustments for rear roll center.
This is the advantage of using a cad system when it comes to making one off brackets.
I print on a4 to scale then spray glue and attach to the sheet metal, all the cutting drilling is done then peel it off.
The upper lateral link is made with adjustments for rear roll center.
This is the advantage of using a cad system when it comes to making one off brackets.
I print on a4 to scale then spray glue and attach to the sheet metal, all the cutting drilling is done then peel it off.
10 Jul 2016, 1:45am
Gearbox
EBAY $250
Subaru 2.5 lt turbo liberty 5speed.
I removed the extension housing ,rear diff ,transfer gears and filed them in the bin .
The center housing I have left the shift casting and machined off that that is not required.
The bearing hole I will plug, I can buy a splined sleeve that go's onto the lower shaft and this will make it drive out of the front diff.
The rear I have made a sheet cover that will get 2 m6 bolts and some sealer adhesive.
The diff I will weld the center as it will be track only.
EBAY $250
Subaru 2.5 lt turbo liberty 5speed.
I removed the extension housing ,rear diff ,transfer gears and filed them in the bin .
The center housing I have left the shift casting and machined off that that is not required.
The bearing hole I will plug, I can buy a splined sleeve that go's onto the lower shaft and this will make it drive out of the front diff.
The rear I have made a sheet cover that will get 2 m6 bolts and some sealer adhesive.
The diff I will weld the center as it will be track only.
10 Jul 2016, 1:59am
In an earlier post I made sheet metal uprights.
The rear I was happy with but the front I never was.
I could also see issues fitting the steering arm.
With the scrap from the center of the gearbox conversion plate I made 2 front uprights and I had to make caliper brackets as well.
The uprights are 5083 and the brackets are 6061 t6 .
The caliper has a S/Steel bracket to hold it to the upright,as per the sheet pattern in pic 4.
The steering arm will be sheet ,one in between the top ball joint mount and one on top.
All the radius on the edges of the uprights I did in the mill just using router bits (tungsten carbide).
The rear I was happy with but the front I never was.
I could also see issues fitting the steering arm.
With the scrap from the center of the gearbox conversion plate I made 2 front uprights and I had to make caliper brackets as well.
The uprights are 5083 and the brackets are 6061 t6 .
The caliper has a S/Steel bracket to hold it to the upright,as per the sheet pattern in pic 4.
The steering arm will be sheet ,one in between the top ball joint mount and one on top.
All the radius on the edges of the uprights I did in the mill just using router bits (tungsten carbide).
10 Jul 2016, 2:06am
I want center lock wheels because its period, I am happy to forgo spinners for nut just because its practical.
The flanges I machined out of 4140 chromemoly, the nuts a 6061 t6.
The pin drives will be the heads of m12 alan bolts.
The flanges I machined out of 4140 chromemoly, the nuts a 6061 t6.
The pin drives will be the heads of m12 alan bolts.
10 Jul 2016, 2:19am
Wheels
Pic 1 I punch a hole in the billet to center on the table, the 2 outer are just for mounting with bolts, I place these where 2 of the slots will be.
Pic 2 Mounting face for the wheel and also the arbor in the machining process.
Counter bore for the center lock.
Where the drive pins go I put 5 m10 threads in instead of the 10x drive pin holes.
Pic 1 I punch a hole in the billet to center on the table, the 2 outer are just for mounting with bolts, I place these where 2 of the slots will be.
Pic 2 Mounting face for the wheel and also the arbor in the machining process.
Counter bore for the center lock.
Where the drive pins go I put 5 m10 threads in instead of the 10x drive pin holes.
10 Jul 2016, 2:38am
I mount it to an arbor then do all the profiling on the front.
I then turn the arbor around and remount and do all the rear face.
Cutting the slots is about a 6 step process due to the shape.
The wheel and rim is 5kg.
All 4 uprights are assembled, the metal spinners will have the rim half's done next week, the Cr moly turns up Monday for all the suspension , the rack I have finalized and will order Monday.
With in a month I expect to have a rolling chassis.
Thats it for the moment.
Jim
I then turn the arbor around and remount and do all the rear face.
Cutting the slots is about a 6 step process due to the shape.
The wheel and rim is 5kg.
All 4 uprights are assembled, the metal spinners will have the rim half's done next week, the Cr moly turns up Monday for all the suspension , the rack I have finalized and will order Monday.
With in a month I expect to have a rolling chassis.
Thats it for the moment.
Jim
10 Jul 2016, 7:51am
Bl@@dy brilliant Jim. Engineering art indeed. I am in awe of people's skills.
Dave
Dave
11 Jul 2016, 6:23am
Jim - I did wonder what had happened to your build.
But clearly you have been busy and working to your usual extremely high standard too.
Good luck, Paul.
But clearly you have been busy and working to your usual extremely high standard too.
Good luck, Paul.
1 Feb 2017, 2:07pm
Hello
That is am amazing project, and dedication is inspirational.
Any updates?
That is am amazing project, and dedication is inspirational.
Any updates?
6 Feb 2017, 6:44am
No updates
Life has taken over and I have not touched it in 3 months.
Will get back into it in the next few weeks.
Jim
Life has taken over and I have not touched it in 3 months.
Will get back into it in the next few weeks.
Jim
16 Apr 2017, 3:44pm
Does not feel like a lot considering the time that has lapsed but a lot of things came up over the last few months and it took me away from this project.
Over the last few weeks I got some done on the suspension.
The first thing made was the body profiles that sit directly above the axle lines.
This is so I make sure I am building under the body work..
Over the last few weeks I got some done on the suspension.
The first thing made was the body profiles that sit directly above the axle lines.
This is so I make sure I am building under the body work..
16 Apr 2017, 3:50pm
I placed the wheel and Tyre in the location and just start making links.
I have 2 lower laterals with a diagonal.
I upper lat and a trailing link.
The original cars had very much a gt40 set up with long trailing links. I want to get away from that for packaging reasons.
I have 2 lower laterals with a diagonal.
I upper lat and a trailing link.
The original cars had very much a gt40 set up with long trailing links. I want to get away from that for packaging reasons.
16 Apr 2017, 3:52pm
The front I wanted removable brackets so that I have the flexibility to change roll centers further than the bracket allows by replacing it with another.
The lower arm inner joints are a fixed position, they go into a very simple jig which is a piece of ply with 3 holes drilled in the correct location to get the location of the 3 joints the same left and right.
The upper and lower sphericals are both 5/8 the housings I machined, all the left and right 1/2 rose joint adjusters I also machined.
The machined parts and tube work is all 4130 crome moly.
The lower arm inner joints are a fixed position, they go into a very simple jig which is a piece of ply with 3 holes drilled in the correct location to get the location of the 3 joints the same left and right.
The upper and lower sphericals are both 5/8 the housings I machined, all the left and right 1/2 rose joint adjusters I also machined.
The machined parts and tube work is all 4130 crome moly.
16 Apr 2017, 3:56pm
the upper arm is split with a clevis.
All the camber caster is adjusted off the top arm.
Again brackets are removable and bolts pass in the vertical direction.
The reason for this was mainly to keep the joints in compression and contraction when loaded.
The front upper joint is in a fitting that has an outer L/H thread and a 1/2" inner R/H thread.
By rotating the threaded sleeve (the part the rose joint is screwed into) I can adjust without removing the bolt out of the upper inner joint.
All the camber caster is adjusted off the top arm.
Again brackets are removable and bolts pass in the vertical direction.
The reason for this was mainly to keep the joints in compression and contraction when loaded.
The front upper joint is in a fitting that has an outer L/H thread and a 1/2" inner R/H thread.
By rotating the threaded sleeve (the part the rose joint is screwed into) I can adjust without removing the bolt out of the upper inner joint.
16 Apr 2017, 4:01pm
The steering arm is crome moly sheet.
I printed out the panels and glued to the sheet then cut to get them all the same.
I had worked out through susprog 3 where the arm needed to be.
I then freehanded the first one at the correct location.
I then made a jig that it fitted into but mirrored the hole location when in the mill.
The parts are all assembled and welded in the jig and this gives me a mirrored part.
I printed out the panels and glued to the sheet then cut to get them all the same.
I had worked out through susprog 3 where the arm needed to be.
I then freehanded the first one at the correct location.
I then made a jig that it fitted into but mirrored the hole location when in the mill.
The parts are all assembled and welded in the jig and this gives me a mirrored part.
16 Apr 2017, 4:03pm
steering rack I decided on Strange engineering 12:1 ,they use them in sand buggy's and drag rails.
I will be extending the end by using a linier pillow block 106mm long mounted to the front .the rack will have some form of link to a hardened shaft 20mm dia.
The brackets the rack is mounted to will get flanges attached to up the rigidity,I have not done this before so I will have to work out the bugs.
I dont want to make a rack specific to this car.
Thats all for the moment.
Jim
I will be extending the end by using a linier pillow block 106mm long mounted to the front .the rack will have some form of link to a hardened shaft 20mm dia.
The brackets the rack is mounted to will get flanges attached to up the rigidity,I have not done this before so I will have to work out the bugs.
I dont want to make a rack specific to this car.
Thats all for the moment.
Jim
17 Apr 2017, 5:52pm
This is fascinating, how will you get the body shell right?
17 Apr 2017, 8:33pm
I have profiles so I will make a buck and form it out of aluminum.
20 Apr 2017, 11:39pm
How did you derive the profiles Jim? The Drogo body must be one of the most beautiful of all time and I haven't been able to find good drawings other than these: http://www.autosports-gallery.com/ferrari-206s-dino-sport-le-mans-1966.html
20 Apr 2017, 11:53pm
some Ferrari Dino 206SP images
20 Apr 2017, 11:56pm
and some more
21 Apr 2017, 10:02am
I have seen Barneys 206 work ,he is a master.
My work will never be at his level but the more you do the better you get.
I was fortunate to get 50 or so drawings taken off a real 206 that was in England.
Parts that I dont have drawings for I will make of photos.
Jim
My work will never be at his level but the more you do the better you get.
I was fortunate to get 50 or so drawings taken off a real 206 that was in England.
Parts that I dont have drawings for I will make of photos.
Jim