MadaboutKitcars

yep you got it on one probably with some closed cell spongy thingy stuff on the top plates to allow for any flexing

I would go for Sika-flex deggsy, it sticks like shit to a blanket and dries like hard rubber and will take any amount of flex.

If you put it on really thick it takes between one and two days to cure properly, but well worth the wait.
I actually Sika-flexed the bolts to the inside of my stainless bumpers, and there is no way they will ever come off.
But use the marine version, which is the best.

I second that, Sikaflex Marine is the best stuff for this, I am using it for years on marine and automotive applications and I have never had any problems!!

Thanks for the info gents I'll get me some of that

over the last few days I have managed to get the lower bulkhead panels in place a pit fiddly as I don't have a sheet metal bender also to add to my misery the heater pipes and steering column are angled so I had lots of measuring and filing to get them all lined up correctly.
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also got the frame bolted on to the chassis and the fuel tank installed all in all not a bad few days.
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Not a lot of progress at the moment I have finished the lower bulkhead panels and made the upper one's
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I have also made one of the side panels

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Then my faithful sheet metal cutter of 15 years rolled over and died on me but then I managed to phone a friend and borrowed one

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So all is well again I can't decide weather to use the glass fibre rear panel supplied or make an alloy one both have issues I have also started labelling the wiring loom connections.

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Love the alloy panelling Derek.

Progress is slow but sure I have finished the main interior alloy panelling the fiddly bits around the doors can't be done until the body is fitted.

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I will have to make a gearbox tunnel cover as my fibreglass one is too long too wide and too high for the new frame i'v got enough alloy sheet but no angle to make the frame doh.

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The next job after that is to make a boot box in front of the tank

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Then I have to bite the bullet and cut the rear boot floor supports I've been putting this off for ages I'll have to cut about where the red line is (gulp)

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Looking good Degsy
Brings back memories, you can never have too many rivets!! Keep posting,

Scottie

Too true Scottie I have just collected another pack of 200

I went through a hell of a lot Degsy, I used over a thousand rivets, and about the same in self tappers, (which looked like rivets, but allowed the panels to be taken off for maintenance)
So that was over two thousand in the car finally.
But the end result, both on yours and mine, speaks for itself.
Good luck with the rest of it!

I think I'll need it 2000 yuk by the way is your engine sorted now Scottie

Yes and no Degsy, I'm just doing a bit each day, just re-newed all the hoses, having had to mostly cut all the old ones off as the jubillee clips had all seized up.Then to get all the nuts off the studs that had seized and come out of the head, then shearing them off, and having to order new ones. ordering new water pump, fitting it etc. It kind of seems to be dragging on, but I am getting there slowly. The good thing about this is the crap weather! I still have no roof so am not in a tearing hurry to finish the work really, as strange as that may sound.

Scottie I am fitting all stainless jubilee clips to mine much better also all non stressed bolts will be stainless

I agree Degs, I am doing the same. Most of the nuts and bolts on my car are all stainless, well worth the little bit extra I think.

absolutely I am also planning on changing all brackets' heat shields and dust shields for stainless as well (as much shiny bling as possible)

The boot box in front of the fuel tank is now done but I chickened out of cutting the boot support outriggers? but I have a devious plan where I cut them off and re weld them on at a new angle to support the boot and keep the DVLA happy.

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I would like to get the car running before the body goes on So I stared on the electrics I had to re-modify the modified dash. And fitted in place with a grate deal of very accurate guesswork

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This makes the wiring behind the dash much easier to install as you can see.

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But I realise that the gear box cover will be very awkward to make/fit when the dash is fully installed so I have also made a start on that.

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I also worked out that the brake master cylinder will be too tall for the body so I have sent for a later tandem unit which will mean a little bit of re-pluming Doh

All this pre-planning may be a pain Degsy, but well worth it in the end!

yes I agree and to top it all my chepo ebay air riveter died on me yesterday after only about 150 rivets s#!t and b%%ger it I'll have to buy a decent one now!

Not a lot happening I have been trying to sort out the wiring and cabling making holes for the grommets etc.
Then I decided to have a go at the boot supports and in the process tried to decapitate my left middle finger with my angle grinder luckily I failed but it looks as if I have been at it with a cheese grater so I have retired to my favourite chair and pain killers (vodka) hic

Managed to get a bit more done this weekend I finally cut down the rear boot supports I have welded a blanking plate in with a nut on the inside so I can bolt or weld the supports back in place once the body is on.
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I also remade the exhaust rear support hopefully the body should clear it ok!

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I am still playing with the electrics having problems with the overdrive and 2 speed heater wiring what wires I have are the wrong colour codes and I have 2 inhibitor switches on the gearbox all the diagrams show only one?????

Gearbox Switches


I think one is for limiting overdrive selection to third and top, the other is the reversing light switch. Maybe.

Thanks Mick I wish it was that simple as you can see from the photos below (just) there is a inhibitor switch in front of the gearstick the reverse light switch is just behind the gearstick (two wires going to it) at the front on the top of the gearbox there is another inhibitor switch? this is where the selectors should be so I have wired up to that one.
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It may or may not be right I'll find out the first time I drive it?

today I installed the bottom fillets to the frame these will be sealed with P.U. adhesive once the body is on
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Gearbox Switches


That circular (ish) switch in front of the gearstick seems to be in a redundant position. Have you tried a continuity test across the terminals with the 'box in each gear? Be interesting to find out what, if anything, it does!

T checked them today and you're right the one by the gearbox would have power going through it in all gears the one at the front only in 3rd and top so hopefully that should do the trick