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Make sure you spray the front bumper bar balck so it doesn't stand out through the front grill.
Perhaps widen the stirpes
Yes- twigged that matt black spray requirement already- the expanded metal grille I have to go in there is quite expanded but will try it anyway before getting anything with a smaller mesh.
No problems with overheating in this weather I suppose???
A 5 - 3 - 5 stripe/gap sequence will be close enough, and very pleasing to the eye. Your current configuration will make the eye want to check that the gap in the middle is the same width as the stripes.
Driving up to Stevenage and back without issues. Mixture of fast motorway and then sat stationary in traffic on the motorway.
I was surprised when I first saw the size of the viscous fan on the engine AND the electric one on the rad. I'd never compared the size of the original intake with that on the Z300S so glad to hear it's all adequate.
Biggest problem was other drivers slowing down to look at the car
Slowing down? You obviously weren't driving fast enough then. Although I do remember that part of the A1 as being prone to 100mph cruisers in the morning and then seeing the Talivans on bridges when coming back- so it's obviously closely monitored.
I'm familiar with the concept and yes it does make sense but the point of the red stripes on a white car is to emulate the Maser A6 GCS pictured earlier.
I come back to the issue of scale meaning that the 4"+4"+4" is altogether too narrow on the Z300S. Also, I wouldn't want a casual observer to confuse it with a Cobra.
I measured the centre line down the bonnet but the stripes are not symmetrical on the bonnet bulge so I may be trying out 5" tape sooner rather than later.
Z300S Barchetta #4 has LED front and side indicators and as a consequence exhibits a very fast flash sequence. A MOTable offence probably.
So- I eBayed and fitted a "25W Car LED Turn Signals Indicator Light Load Resistor Flash Rate Fix Relay" in parallel with each of the front indicators and that returned the flash rate to normal. They are just resistors, not relays.
Only problem is that the resistor blocks run very hot so for now they are out in the air flow behind the round vents on the front. Long term it may be an idea to mount them actually on the expanded metal. They get too hot to mount on any plastic part. Of course they can be wired in at any position on the circuits but it was most convenient to mount them using the existing connector break at the front.
Can't you just mount a normal light in series but place it inside the body work. This will slow the exterior bulb and give your engine a disco experience whenever you turn a corner?
Yes I'd considered that as well, but in parallel. I'm not totally happy with the front indicators anyway. They have a nice low profile but don't reflect in the headlights enough. I have obtained some small lenses and some 21w capless bulbs so may end up incandescent rather than led anyway.
Needs to match the bore on the real pipes. Looks a bit like a hoover adaptor in the smaller size. love the idea though and better than my attempts at fake side pipes
The original front indicators with their bright LED elements were very neat but just didn't seem prominent enough for everyday driving.
So I bought these:
they are incandescent but still low wattage so I've left the ballast resistors in circuit.
For 2014, I see that Bruce has mounted repeaters on the front edge of the wheel arch - could be a home for my now redundant ones.