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This is a read-only archive of the old Madabout Kitcars forum. New posts and replies are no longer possible, but every thread is still here to browse and read.

Swifty's Navigator

5 May 2014, 11:35am
Nice work , keep it up . :eusa_clap:
5 May 2014, 2:44pm
as mikmiglia .....nice work ....cool bit & bobs great
5 May 2014, 3:39pm
Swifty I just went with the blue bush kits from Canleys, fitted ok and seemed ok value. If you need any bits I have some left ill find a link.
5 May 2014, 3:50pm
And I think all of these are still available as well as some spare bushes and trunions, if your interested ill have a sort at the weekend and pm you a list
Mac
5 May 2014, 6:33pm
Viatron wrote:
And I think all of these are still available as well as some spare bushes and trunions, if your interested ill have a sort at the weekend and pm you a list
Mac


Not sure if you meant to post a link here but it's not visible.

Are the brake drums standard spitfire or the larger GT6 drums? I am thinking of changing over to the GT6 front and rear brakes to match the engine, but this may not be required due to the reduction in weight so more thought required on this one.
5 May 2014, 6:37pm
Thanks Mikmiglia and Phil9
5 May 2014, 6:50pm
Stripped the stromberg 150 carbs down today ready to fit an overhaul kit which i need to order, the problem is the small id tag is missing and there's no numbers stamped on the carb body so will speak to the guys at Zenith Carbs tomorrow. Found a build up of lacquer and seized float valves, butter fly shafts are worn also a missing gauze filter on one of the float valves plus rounded/missing screws, me thinks a butcher has been at work.

IMG_4316.jpg
IMG_4324.jpg


The carbs before i gave them a clean with petrol and the cleaned carbs.

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View into the float chamber were the petrol goes, you can see hard lacquer on the left image and after a quick clean with carburetor cleaner, its wonderful stuff.

Attachment “IMG_4337.jpg” from the original forum could not be reliably recovered.


All the parts off one carb stripped and cleaned ready to re-assemble with new butter fly shafts and gaskets etc.
5 May 2014, 7:04pm
Attachment “IMG_4338.jpg” from the original forum could not be reliably recovered.
IMG_4339.jpg


Photo of the air valve and needle which has a large build up of lacquer, a couple of squirts of carb cleaner and its gone. I did notice that one carb was worse with carbon buildup, it just happens to be the one with the missing screws and float valve filter.

IMG_4331.jpg


Wear on the butter fly spindle were it rotates on the bush in the body which are part of an overhaul kit along with new spindles.
6 May 2014, 7:51am
Excellent reference as usual... I have same carbs/rebuild kit, so keep thi detailed as I like to follow the pictures.
6 May 2014, 5:39pm
The compensating valve plastic cover is distorted on both my carbs and i don't seem to be able to source replacement. Is anybody running an engine with distorted cover and does it affect the performance etc.

IMG_43375.jpg
Attachment “IMG_43245.jpg” from the original forum could not be reliably recovered.


The cover is circled red in the left hand image, its a yellow colour plastic which does not sit squarely on the ally valve body when screwed down. If you look closely at the right hand image you can see the plastic cover sitting off the ally face, the carb in the back ground also shows the compensating valve cover not sitting flat.
6 May 2014, 7:48pm
A good source for information on these carbs is here http://zenithcarb.co.uk/technical/

They also sell the service and overhaul kits, very reasonable too which is what i like.

Good exploded views here http://www.marineengine.com/parts/technical_information/sierra_18-7085.pdf

To buy the correct overhaul kit you need to determine the correct type/model of carb is it a 150 CD or CDSE, this info is stamped on the metal tag attached to the carb top but alas my carbs are missing this vital piece of info so i have done a little research and found a good description between a CD and CDSE at https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/triumph-gt6-enthusiast/conversations/topics/7790

This guy says the CD carb does not have the "By pass valve - Throttle" item 15 on the diagram, if the By pass valve is fitted then its a CDSE carb also the "Valve Assy - Starting" is fitted to 1 CD carb and both carbs on the CDSE twin carb set up.

I found this on tunning the CD carbs http://p38arover.com/misc_files/Tuning_Stromberg_CD_Carbs.pdf

Hope this helps and makes life a little easier.
6 May 2014, 8:14pm
Can youget carb cleaner in a bottle or container?
6 May 2014, 8:39pm
I've only seen aerosols, Tool Station has 400ml for about £2.68.

It evaporates very quickly so if poured into a container it will be gone in no time at all, plus the aerosol blasts the crud off.
7 May 2014, 5:13pm
Zenith carbs

Hi Swifty ,you can get the spares from Gower and Lee ,also Burlen fuel Systems ,I have used both recently for my 175 cd's , both places are very helpful.
7 May 2014, 5:48pm
slickshod wrote:
Hi Swifty ,you can get the spares from Gower and Lee ,also Burlen fuel Systems ,I have used both recently for my 175 cd's , both places are very helpful.


Thanks slickshod, i spoke to Andrew Turner of Turner Carbs today who was also very helpful in confirming the spec of carbs i have plus his rebuild kit is the cheapest i can find for the genuine article, so will be placing an order with him.

Also for reference after talking to Andrew the plastic compensating valve cover does not have to seal tightly against the body but he did say you can buy new ones for about £6 each.
8 May 2014, 7:44pm
Today the chassis arrived back after being shot blasted and etch primed along with the suspension parts etc. The overall condition is excellent with no holes or repair work being done in the past so i am very pleased with how it has turned out.

Attachment “IMG_4347.jpg” from the original forum could not be reliably recovered.
IMG_4348.jpg



Also today made a spacer block to go between the rear leaf spring and diff, this will lower the back end and straighten the wheels up (less negative camber) plus if the front end is lowered the block helps to balance the car's level.

Here's a couple of pictures of the block which is machined out of ally.

IMG_4343.jpg
IMG_43451.jpg


Machined to a height of 19.05mm or 3/4 inch, i can always reduce this height if the car is to low.
8 May 2014, 7:55pm
I'm worried about that .05mm...
8 May 2014, 8:17pm
garyh wrote:
I'm worried about that .05mm...


Its the engineer in me i can't get away from it.:laugh:
11 May 2014, 6:03pm
Today i finally got the chassis sprayed along with all the suspension parts, the new compressor just managed to keep up so i may have to have a re-think before i spray the body.

Attachment could not be found in the archived database.


Photo of the chassis in etch primer.

IMG_4351.jpg


Chassis sprayed in graphite grey and some parts of the suspension have been sprayed in Rosso red, should be a good combination i think. Now i have to work out what's required to re assemble the suspension, brakes and drive train.
11 May 2014, 6:30pm
Your chassis is looking very nice. :cool:
11 May 2014, 7:08pm
you did well on the chassis as did I, others have had to have a patch fest!
In a roller by tomorrow then......
12 May 2014, 7:29am
Great colour and an inspiring build.
12 May 2014, 10:14am
This is quickly becoming one of my favorite threads... great work
12 May 2014, 8:23pm
Paint on the chassis now dry but i think i will give the whole chassis another coat.

IMG_4352.jpg


Some of the suspension parts laid on top of the chassis to see how the colours look.



My latest flee bay purchase arrived today, a clutch friction plate for a TR7. The original friction plate is 203mm dia with 10 splines where as the TR7 is 216mm dia with 23 splines which fits the type 9 gearbox perfect and just fits the pressure plate with a few millimeters to spare before it catches the riverts.

IMG_43555.jpg


You can see the difference in the splines of the original against the TR7 friction plate.

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The left hand image shows just how close the edge of the plate is in relation to the pressure plate rivet tops. Friction plate in position on the type 9 gearbox input shaft splines.