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You've worried me there Paul, I'm not sure where I stand on that one.
I looked at them and I could see a big weight reduction if they were removed!! Fingers crossed right now then!!
Just don't mention it and you'll be fine. They're really checking for major mods like shortening/lengthening of the wheelbase or trying to pass off a brand new space-frame as the original chassis, not just the odd bracket removed.
Nice work by the way, I used the alloy Homebase vents myself, much better value than ones from a speed shop.
Keep up the good work, it's going to look stunning
Thanks for the support MT! When I went to collect my body shell from Chris, he took the shell from a Spit it was sat on at the time, and as far as I recall, that car had no brackets, which influenced me as to removal.
The 1 mil cutting disc is my new found friend, and I do get a bit carried away at times, I'll have to dig out a pic of the dash top, where I cut so much out, I panicked and welded in two strengthening bars to compensate! I want my car to have windscreen wipers, and fitting them after the body is in place will be bit tricky and I wanted plenty of access.
An XKSS interior looks nothing like a Spitfire interior, another big headache. At first I was willing to compromise, then became ashamed of my gutless attitude, and decided to whack it hard!
[IMG][/IMG]
The Spit, for those that don't know, looks like this.
[IMG][/IMG]
like the way this is going . I am umming and arring at the moment on whose kit to build , Ribble , Migila , Tribute etc. your thread is proving to be very persuasive !
I was happy with the outcome. Of course, compromise has to come into it somewhere.
I welded a lump onto the Spit gear lever ( with it out of the car)
Then welded a 1963 Jaguar gear onto that, and fitted a very expensive
"C" Type replica knob to complete it.
t looks very mickey-mouse but works very well . I ripped the handbrake out of my rotten 1964 MK II Jaguar, (which didn't need much ripping it almost fell out) And cleaned it up a bit and used that. I had to make frame for it to bolt to and designed it to fit to an unmodified,already in position handbrake cable.
If it is of any interest to people on a tight budget-build, and I am firmly in that catagory, the locks I chose to use
[IMG][/IMG]
came from a store called B and M, (of which there are over 200 nation-wide) and they cost £1.49 each.
I have fitted the bonnet and boot ones already and they work well.
A similar thing at one of these "Euro-shops" would be so much more.
I soak them in oil first, drain them out overnight , then fill them with grease, they are nickle plated any way, so will last virtually for ever.
Hope this helps someone!
I can not resist posting a picture of the wheel which will complete the build
(One day far away!)
It is a genuine Moto-Lita as fitted to the racing D types, and the XKSS's too.
It came from a humble Triumph Herald 1962 vintage. I have seen these new, (very pricey) but this one has all the age related patina and little nicks, and is obviously quite old, so should really look the part.
The 1962 Herald boss is different to my 1972 Spit, but half an hour with the drill sorted that one out.[IMG][/IMG]
Just don't mention it and you'll be fine. They're really checking for major mods like shortening/lengthening of the wheelbase or trying to pass off a brand new space-frame as the original chassis, not just the odd bracket removed.
Nice work by the way, I used the alloy Homebase vents myself, much better value than ones from a speed shop.
Keep up the good work, it's going to look stunning
Scottie, don't worry, Mister Towed gives good advice.
I know he does, he's helped me before, and I know you do too. I'm
happy that I'm in good hands, which is why I'm here.
Thank you for the helpful comments.
One last thing, I've been doing my repairing of cracks,bonding of brackets etc with Isopon P40 Paste from Halfords at about 12 quid for only
600 grams.
I saw some advice for "Bonding paste" 5K for £20 or so.
Do I go for this? and is it as strong as the P40 stuff, it sure as hell is a lot cheaper.
will soon be getting to the bonding body- to- car stage and this stuff sounds good, is it?
It's going to look very nice Scottie, I love those rear lights.
Just make sure you mount the luggage rack the right way round when you do the final fit. The raised lip goes to the front - it's not meant to stop your suitcase sliding off when you load it, it's meant to stop your luggage shooting forwards and beheading you if you crash.
MrTowed - I always thought they shoul have the lip at the front but every image I can find on the web has them shown as Scottie has his.
Scottie - Have you fixed the wrong bit? I can see why you would want your big boot flap for practical purposes and I think it looks great with the lights but on the original wasn't the boot opening just the very back bit that you have glassed shut?
For what it is worth, I asked Chris to do exaclty what you have done for my Z300S
MrTowed - I always thought they shoul have the lip at the front but every image I can find on the web has them shown as Scottie has his.
Yep, everyone's been fitting them the wrong way round since Mazda resurrected the affordable sports car in the late eighties. I guess the gap between the death of the British open top and the rise of the Japanese alternative meant society forgot the safety lessons from previous decades. This manufacturer knows what they're doing though -
Hello to Mr Towed and WCA!!
Well we have a fine row going on here then!!
At first MR T, I thought you were taking the p, as I have never ever seen a rack mounted with the flap at the front, but what you say is logical for sure, however, if decapitation is the price to pay for a good looking car, then so be it!
WCA, you are correct,in that the D type had a kind of post box slot at the rear in order to post the spare wheel in.
And the XKSS was the same, but this is a good example of where compromise steps in. I wanted a large useable boot, which I now have, in order that I would not have to carry decapitating luggage!
That is exactly the type of compromise I am willing to allow. ( for me personally, practicality wins over originality )
Could someone please give me some advice on the following:
I posted this text earlier, but so far had no replies
Quote:
One last thing, I've been doing my repairing of cracks,bonding of brackets etc with Isopon P40 Paste from Halfords at about 12 quid for only
600 grams.
I saw some advice for "Bonding paste" 5K for £20 or so.
Do I go for this? and is it as strong as the P40 stuff, it sure as hell is a lot cheaper.
will soon be getting to the bonding body- to- car stage and this stuff sounds good, is it?
Unquote
(The following is based on trial and error and a bit of reading - I am no expert.)
Bonding paste is usually harder and more brittle than filler. Hence, it is harder to work with once it is set. Better quality fillers have a little flex in them.
I made my own P40 using polyester resin and chopped-up matting and it worked well. I mentioned the proportions on my build thread.
I looked into making my own version of P38 (referring to my fibreglassing book) but I would have needed an additive (to make it softer and less brittle) and a talc filler to thicken it. By the time I would have bought those and used the resin there was no real saving on the Halfords (yes, I said the word) Easy Sand product which is ~£25 for a 3.5l tin. It is a match for Isopon.
Thanks for the positive comments WCA.
The red car looks terrific, when do you actually take possession of it?
I understand Chris took it to the show where the car was the star ?
Hi Oxford 1360,
Thank you for the info, I will follow it up.
Like you, I don't really fancy messing about trying to mix stuff when I seem to have so much else to do.
I drove down to exeter to see it. The photos don't do it justice. The proportions are spot on. There are a few little details to finish which hopefully Chris is working on at the moment. I hope to pick it up when I get back from the States at the end of next week.
Still need to sort out some proper wire wheels. 2 of the 4 I bought have got worn spindles so need replacing. Watching a set on ebay at the moment but if anyone has some 15" wires with a 42mm hub (not jaguar basically) then give me a shout.
