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Saw your build site. The chassis number should be on the offside suspension upright. I didn't know this before I had my chassis shotblasted and hot dip galvanized so I will have to restamp the number myself. See http://www.sporting-reliants.com/my_car2005.htm and scroll down to June 2005.
Good to see progress on the WCAG46 or is that the G46WCA.
We used Black smooth hammerite on our chassis (had a tin under the bench) the metal was so solid after 38 years we reckon it would last out long enough for us with a splash and dash!
Recently sent of log book to change the engine particulars for the V8 and you want to see the proof they are asking me for the ownership of the engine, despite I had it registered to another car for 7 years and bought it about 12 years ago they want me to provide a receipt. Can I find the receipt, can I F----.
Worse than that I took the VIN plate off the old SE5 and can't find that either so will need to apply to DVLA before we can have the VOSA inspection.
I can't see the chassis number on the suspension uprights, but I have never really looked, I will do so later.
No progress on the car for the last few weeks and won't get back onto it for another two weeks at least.
At the rate WCA is going he is going to sail past us which is good, hope Gary is working hard on more development of the G46, feel a bit left out with the Sammio and the Cordites. Started looking at Spitfires on e-bay!!!!!!!!!
At the rate WCA is going he is going to sail past us
I doubt that! I need to work out how to knock up a wiring harness and I haven't even started to look at the engine other than removing the cat* when I collected it.
Despite you building a completely different beast, its fun to see how similar the build process is to the Spyder! Keep up the good work and a little tip I found quite late into my build was to use "chassis black" rather than hammerite. Tis good stuff!
Spent most of the weekend at a family wedding and felt a bit vacant this afternoon so haven't managed much. I decided to start looking at the oily bits while I wait for a friend of a friend to work out if he wants to help with the welding. I took the rocker covers off and there was nothing too nasty. I took the knackered carb off and then lifted the inlet manifold off.
There appeared to be bits of the gasket blocking some of the holes.
When the old gasket was scraped off there was a sludgey goo behind it.
Inside the engine was similar with three out of the four holes appearing to be blocked by the gasket and back filled with sludge. One fo the four holes was completely dry and clear of sludge.
The sludge in the engine block was more rusty.
The question is - Is it worth continuing to work on this engine or are the internal water runs likely to be blocked?
I don't have access to any special tools or machines for clearing these. Will it be cheaper / easier to swap this engine for a reconditioned one?
Either way it is worth continuing the strip down to see what lies beneath. The sludge is probably caused by infrequent oil changes and white froth is water in the oil.
Strip it right down before you make your final decision. But keep an eye on eBay anyway in case of the worst!
An eventful weekend that was so busy I haven't updated my blog and am posting this from the train.
I spent most of saturday stripping the engine down. This is probably an really easy task for you proper mechanics but I have never done anything like this before so it was a slow but interesting process.
Saturday night involved a surprise party and getting to bed at 4am and sunday morning started with a 10am mountain bike ride. Not a good mix!
I wasn't feeling great after the ride but got a lovely email from Chaman.tech offering me the engine and box he had taken out of his scimi for a very reasonable price. I was going to pick it up in my TVR but decided to take the reliable and practical japanese pick up instead. It broke down twenty miles from Charman.techs house with a knackered alternator. The RAC managed to get me going by recharging the battery and disconnecting the alternator. I would be fine for the journey home as long as I didn't drain the battery using unnecessary things like head lights. The drive home in the dark was interesting
Anyway I now have two engines and gear boxes. Today I will order the new outriggers to weld on and next weekend will be busy
Unfortunately it will be busy fixing the pick up first then sorting out a tripping fuse in the merc then working on the G46. Who would have thought my TVR would be the least trouble of my four cars.
An eventful weekend that was so busy I haven't updated my blog and am posting this from the train.
I spent most of saturday stripping the engine down. This is probably an really easy task for you proper mechanics but I have never done anything like this before so it was a slow but interesting process.
Saturday night involved a surprise party and getting to bed at 4am and sunday morning started with a 10am mountain bike ride. Not a good mix!
I wasn't feeling great after the ride but got a lovely email from Chaman.tech offering me the engine and box he had taken out of his scimi for a very reasonable price. I was going to pick it up in my TVR but decided to take the reliable and practical japanese pick up instead. It broke down twenty miles from Charman.techs house with a knackered alternator. The RAC managed to get me going by recharging the battery and disconnecting the alternator. I would be fine for the journey home as long as I didn't drain the battery using unnecessary things like head lights. The drive home in the dark was interesting
Anyway I now have two engines and gear boxes. Today I will order the new outriggers to weld on and next weekend will be busy
Unfortunately it will be busy fixing the pick up first then sorting out a tripping fuse in the merc then working on the G46. Who would have thought my TVR would be the least trouble of my four cars.
Clad to hear you got home OK, It never occurred to me that it was going to be dark by the time you reached home I could have lent you a torch to hang out the window!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Hi WCA - your build seems to be going very well and I note that you seem to be well ahead of where you were recently on the Scim site -it could be a time warp problem with their site though!
Curious as to how G46 builders are going to finish their cars, I was going 'Mercedes Silver' with appropriate ornamentation but after visiting Holton Heath and seeing 'Orca' again believe 'Ferrari Red' (or maybe yellow) is the way to go.
Having trouble imagining rear lights, with Orca's more upright, ahem, 'flanks' horizontal lights (like Merc 300SL) don't work - wondered if vertical oblong lights would look better than a couple of round lights, but then fusion or classic? LEDs or standard?
I have struggled to make much progress because of family commitments but it is slowly getting there. I have the new gaskets and suspension bushes on the living room floor. I have a full stainless steel engine bolt set being delivered this week. I am hoping to strip clean and rebuild the engine this weekend.
Notice I said going to rebuild the engine. I know next to nothing about engine building but how hard can it be?
Just remembered that I need to order a steel timing wheel as mine are the original plastic ones. Also the chassis outriggers and front braces. Then get them welded on. I promised gary I would get the car down to him soon too. I might have to ask him to sort the welding at the same time as fixing the extra framework.
Colours. I definitely wanted blue until I saw the photo shop colour pictures where the dark blue didn't look as good as the burgundy. I like the ideas of mercedes silver especially as I am having the SLR twin hump style but I am not convinced it will work.
The lights on this aren't too bad. I am thinking of using it as a styling reference point. Not copying it but borrowing bits and pieces
Can't pates from my phone
Google sbarro mille miglia and it I'd the yellow one. 2007 from memory
I was going down the Merc SLR route but having again seen 'Orca' I am not sure it would suit. 'Orca' has too many curves, the Merc is more square/flat.
I'm cutting costs in some areas so spraying car myself, silver is a bit difficult apparently so sticking to an easier colour. Probably yellow.
Have seen the Sbarro MM and its a kind of Canary yellow of the Scaglietti Spyder Ferrari 410S.
Good luck with the engine build - the Scimitar RSSOC has a wealth of info. I went a different way and started with the best mechanical donor I could get, but of course unlike you I don't really know what the real condition of the engine/gearbox is as I haven't had to re build it - yet.
Heading to Stoneleigh this Friday to the retro racing show so should get some more ideas for lights, gauges trim etc.
Will be watching your further posts with much interest.
Busy day in the garage for me today. Bu99er all to show for it. I finished striping the engine down, and then a mates nephew turned up who is a mechanic which was a stroke of luck. Apparently the economic times are hard for him at the moment so he has time on his hands and fancied helping out. Result!
Most of the engine is back together after a bit of cleaning and with new gaskets and stainless steel bolts. The end result is an car that looks pretty much the same as it did last weekend.
Another friend came round to look at the chassis and offered to weld on the new out riggers next weekend which is good. Means I need to get the rusted suspension bit out for him to weld tomorrow which should be fun.
My box of bushes is sitting in the corner sulking because I haven't fitted it yet.
The big news is that I fitted the new fuel tank today. not exactly challenging or big new except it is the first thing I have added to the car rather than removing.
So much to do, so little time!
Gary - i know i said I would try and get the car down to you next weekend but it is looking like the weekend after is more likely. I hope that isn't a problem for you but you look pretty busy with everything else you are doing.
Left the block in one piece but removed the sump (and chassis cross brace) so i could get a good look at things. This was when Sam the mechanic turned up so he looked too and said it all looked okay so we started putting it back together.
i am going for a rtide this morning and then this afternoon I am hoping to finish the engine and strip the front suspension to the remove the bracket that needs welding. Let's pray for no stuck nuts.
Stopped rebuilding the engine until I get a metal timing wheel. Hopefully I can order one this week so I can get on with the build next week when John has done the welding.
I have got the passenger side front suspension off and a mate is going to shot blast it during the week so I can rebuild it next weekend. I have all the bushings I think so hopefully this time next weekend I will have most the engine built and one side of the car bouncing correctly.
Currently it looks like this:
Note the missing outrigger and front chassis strut. The steel is sitting ready so hopefully it will be fairly straight forward to weld.
Nut and bolts. Getting right in my tits with the socket set. All imperial bolts but sometimes metric fits best. The only big wrench I have has metric sockets so I have been using a baby socket set and a f00kin great lump of wood to move stuff.
Really pleased that I only resorted to the angle grinder to cut off one bolt.
I know I need to drill out the bolt that is left but what does that mean?
The thread is cut into the chassis so I need to make it clean enought ot get the new bolt in.
Please can I have some simple and clear instructions on how to get the bolt out without destroying the threads. Pictures a welcome
That one's just an example, I'm not saying it's any good.
The brand we had in the tool stores on fast jet squadrons was called 'Easy Out'. Probably the most ironically named tool ever as they're a bu99er to use.
Sometimes the only way to get seized bolts out is to drill them out completely, then re-tap the hole to a larger bolt size or fit a helicoil thread repair.
