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Hi T, its a Zetec S 1700 95,000 miles no leaks etc... would i need to get the wiring loom/ engine mounts???
Hi Gary, I'm no expert in engine swapping, it's just a kernel of an idea that's simmering away in my subconscious for an ultra lightweight Spyder with enough power to be exhilarating without being too scary to drive.
My plan will be to buy a running Puma and transfer the complete loom with all ecu's etc and the motor into the Spyder chassis/shell. I'd guess that engine mounts will need to be fabricated too. I don't know if all that's possible, but RWD motorsport can probably advise -
Transferring the engine with loom can be done but is a tricky job as the anti theft system needs either disabling or also transferring. By sticking with the standard ECU and wiring you'll also limit yourself to any tuning improvements, just my opinion but if it was me I would investigate after market induction, possibly a bike carb setup? And a cheap ecu like the Nodiz I'm running my triumph on. Also don't underestimate how difficult engine mounting can be. One reason we ditched the Volvo T4 in the GTA was that it was very lacking in threaded bosses on the one side of the block which left very little to attach mounts to. Could be a little flyer though with that engine in and set up right. Good luck!
Epic thread, just read through from start to finish-ish. I say that as in true 'special' builder tradition, an on-road target date of Christmas 2011 has now run on to summer(!) 2014 and the car still hasn't actually run.
I'll bookmark the thread and cross my fingers that the builder's perseverance doesn't wane.
If you use a "bending spring" inside it gary, it should be okay, but you'll have to try a bit first.
I did lots of this stuff while making my bumpers, and really, you've just got to try it first.
If you are using 0.8 and run out, you can use 0.6, but to get the same amount of metal to melt, you'd have to turn the wire feed rate up a bit , does that make sense?
Like if you were using 1mm you'd just need to turn the feed rate down.
You can also alter the current to suit as well.
Or at least you can on my machine.
That's it Gary, you've got it.
You can use different wire sizes, feed rates and current settings to get it all right.
Best way is to set your welder up with whatever you intend to use and then experiment until the weld is right for what you are working on, that way you don't bugger up your build.
Made some floor pans, just need to weld the corners and plug weld. After looking at some threads I need to take out some more leaves and bought a lowering block. Heres some pics of what i did.
At first i was going to do the floor in one piece but it proved too large, so i ended up making the inserts. This makes it easier to use as regards size when using the beader, plus you need one hand to turn the handle and one feed through and looking at the bead following line... you get better as you know.
