18 Jun 2019, 12:31pm
Just for reference here are a few pictures of the rear wheels.
Rebuild & engine conversion
18 Jun 2019, 9:35pm
Never had problems with adjusting the ride height either too low or high (Gaz coilovers). My main issue was setting the height and maintaining a decent level of 'hardness'. Changed to 10.5" 300lb springs recently from Rally Designs and this felt much better.
I think my ride height is about 140mm.
Regarding the rear bodywork, I noticed recently that the drivers side wheel outside edge was flush with the rear arch but the nearside was slightly inset by about 10-15mm. They are both set at 3mm (1°) negative camber and don't protrude beyond the bodywork.
Looking at your photos, have the rear arches been modified at some point as mine have a 1" flat edge which yours don't appear to have...
I have found that the suspension set-up is all about compromise i.e. Hardness, bump steer control, ride height, wheel alignment, wishbone/driveshaft alignment and wheel to arch clearance!
Maybe post some more photos including the spring/damper set-up as it might help our understanding of your problem.
I think my ride height is about 140mm.
Regarding the rear bodywork, I noticed recently that the drivers side wheel outside edge was flush with the rear arch but the nearside was slightly inset by about 10-15mm. They are both set at 3mm (1°) negative camber and don't protrude beyond the bodywork.
Looking at your photos, have the rear arches been modified at some point as mine have a 1" flat edge which yours don't appear to have...
I have found that the suspension set-up is all about compromise i.e. Hardness, bump steer control, ride height, wheel alignment, wishbone/driveshaft alignment and wheel to arch clearance!
Maybe post some more photos including the spring/damper set-up as it might help our understanding of your problem.
19 Jun 2019, 7:25pm
The rear arches have been cut away more yes - to make extra room for the larger wheels. One possible reason I'm running them (I can't remember exactly!) is that the on-board pickups are angled in such a way that to get a decent ride height I need them to be this large. The photo below shows how close the rear bottom suspension arm is to hitting the rail below (there's probably just over 0.5mm clearance, it may even touch before the damper locks out). This is when the ride height is set to ~120mm. It's unfortunately not an ideal setup - I've got 80mm total suspension travel one side, and 55mm the other at the rear due to this issue. I don't really notice is on the road in terms of handling though - all I have is a horrible screech & smell of burning rubber if I hit a hole hard enough as the wheel collides with the bodywork!
In terms of the side that's colliding with the bodywork, the wheel there sticks out ~ 10/15mm clear of the bodywork at the top (second picture attached), the other side is flush. By no means an empirical measurement - if you line yourself up with the chassis and eyeball it, it looks like the wheel is 10/15mm further away from the chassis (the bodywork looks to be symmetrical).
In terms of the side that's colliding with the bodywork, the wheel there sticks out ~ 10/15mm clear of the bodywork at the top (second picture attached), the other side is flush. By no means an empirical measurement - if you line yourself up with the chassis and eyeball it, it looks like the wheel is 10/15mm further away from the chassis (the bodywork looks to be symmetrical).