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Thanks for the links, may well be worth it after it is all finished and painted.
For now I will put the wires on and keep my eyes out for hopefully a cheapish solution.
It is amazing what comes up cheaply on EBay if you keep searching.
They look very good, seem reasonably priced but would it be worth spending that little bit more and going for the original wheels?
Still got to buy the tyres and adaptors.
Although a lot of the alloys on eBay seem expensive, the expensive ones don't often sell, after listing a few times they often go to an auction listing and can go for a fraction of the original price.
Mine were £150 for all 4 but had to collect from Litchfield I live in the south east they are magnesium alloys apparently special refurb with plastic beads, I used a but of emery cloth acid wheel cleaner the high build primer paint and clear lacquer, still look good now. (£38 for four centres, same seller now asking over £100)
Thanks for the link as genuine wheels going for stupid money now.
Just a note of caution about genuine old magnesium alloy wheels. If they were originally treated with a Dow process(usually looks greenish underneath the top paint coat) then they will dangerously corrode if you blast or strip or otherwise remove the passivation layer. And it'll happen under your shiny new paint so you won't see it. This is the case on old Ferrari Cromodoras.
here's a quote about Ferrari Dino Cromodoras from the Dino site I belong to: "Noooooooooooooooooooo!
"Blast cabinet"
No no no.
Dearly protect the DOW 17 (greenish coating).
Research Mil-M-45202 protective coating for magnesium. Very expensive to do correctly. You can call General Magnaplate, or TAGnite. Big undertaking. Chemicals used are vicious. DOW 7 & DOW 9 are not the same level of coating. DOW 17 is a military quality coating for Mg that revolutionized use of Mg for automobiles. Before that, it was watch them disintegrate."
A lot of wheels are colloquially called "mags" though - and this may not apply to them.
These would have been great as they are down to £200.
Just had a word with my mate who only works on Ferrari's and he pointed out that they have to be fitted with metric tyres which cost mega bucks.
Most Mondials have been fitted with modern replica wheels that take imperial tyres.
Bugger.
Success, old Compomotive Jag wheels so they should fit ok 16"
Slow progress, been cold and wet and I still have too many cars on the drive to really get stuck in. One problem at the moment is that the back of my kit donor has been cut away and replaced with soft hardboard, if it gets wet it will just warp and disintegrate. Need to get some GRP on it to stiffen it up a bit.
Just fitted my Rover style alloys and if I must say so myself they look good. Used spiggot rings on them and the original BMW wheel bolts fitted as well. I've been working outside today as it was quite warm and I managed to reinstate the rear wheel arches that had previously been cut off.
Hopefully tomorrow I can place the rear end on top of the existing panels and decide on my next job.
First fit, won't go on with the bumper still attached so will have to remove it first. Just wanted to get an idea of what to chop about first. As you can see from the photo, quite a bit of the rear deck has been removed and replaced with softboard. I have fitted a metal brace underneath to keep it all steady.
I have ordered so clear pvc table protector, I intend to use this to mark out the rear deck and then cut it out and mould it in grp to allow me to build up the rear deck again, hopefully, it will work.
Rear wheel arches glassed back in, the wheels that I have fitted are slightly wider than standard so I'm hoping that the shell being slightly wider than the Z3 will work.
If you look carefully you will see some alloy tape holding the front section together. It is what the airlines use to repair the baggage trollies (Ryanair & Easyjet use it to repair planes). It is very strong and sticky and ideal for forming temporary edges that you can use to make a mould.
Slowly, slowly I'm afraid.
I ran the petrol too low in the 250 and it cut out dead. I had put some petrol in it from a can and thought it must have been old petrol. Couldn't syphon it out with the new fuel pipe route so I undid the pipe on the petrol filter thinking it would drain out, would it bugger!
Have to turn the engine over to pump it out. Turns out there is water in the tank, probably from when the pipe was exposed and plugged with kitchen towel!
I then had to remove the fuel pump to syphon the remaining petrol/water mix out. Simple job but took ages due to the weather, my daughter is also learning to drive so am taking her out every day as I have given her only 6 weeks from 17th birthday to test.
Where does the time go, thank god I don't have to go to work or I would never get anything done.
The cold and wet weather has halted my project up to now. However, I have acquired a Robin Hood Daytona. I talked myself into it thinking it will help me with my project, how I don't know but I didn't need much persuading.
Last on the road in 2008, failed an MOT in 2016, main items were handbrake, steering rack mounts and emissions. It seems to have new rear pads and the handbrake callipers have new split pins and bolts holding the pads so I am hoping this was done after the MOT failure. Still to look at the rack mounts but I have done them in the past on an XJS that I owned and it wasn't a big job.
My main problem is the carbs, it's a Jaguar V12 pre HE that would originally have had fuel injection. This was removed at some time in the past and replaced with 4 strombergs which is what E types and early XJ12's used. These were then removed and fitted with a set of 6 Weber 40 IDF carbs. It starts and runs but you can smell how rich it is running, doesn't sound smooth and there is quite a bit of spitting back through the carbs.
I found a rolling road locally that advertised "we love setting up classic carbs", as soon as I told them what it was, they went off carbs very rapidly and said they couldn't help.
I have quite a few previous receipts for carb tuning in the past which is suspicious, there is also a bag of carb parts in the boot so it looks as if someone has tried to sort it out in the past, probably without success.
Do you think it is going to be possible to get it running sweetly on the webers and if so any recommendations of someone in the Thames Valley area.
Or would it be a better idea to try and source some strombergs and an inlet manifold.
The final option would be to retrofit fuel injection but I know nothing about how they work and my electrical knowledge is pretty close to zero.
Can't help with the carbs but, Pics, we need pics hoto:
I'm guessing the donor was an XJ12 rather than a converted TR7, think I remember seeing an article where a Jag based RH Daytona was featured. Must have required a lot of modification.
My RH kit was based on a TR7. I got it in a state where the TR7 and RH panels had never come together and the TR7 was rotten. Work had been started, the front of the TR7 had been lengthened and the outer TR7 panels had been removed but then just left for about 15-20 years. Was no good so sold all the TR7 bits I could to help fund the purchase of a TVR 350i Wedge which seemed to be a pretty good fit as a donor (Very similar wheelbase to Daytona, no IVA).
I've just got the Wedge to the stage where it is now MOT'd and on the road, so I was going to drive it about for a bit (couple of months) then start in earnest to get the RH Daytona body panels on it.
I kept the TR7 windscreen and frame along with a bit of the bulkhead and A pillars, doors and hood. Is gonna be a big job. Can't wait though, Daytona is the car I've always wanted.
Will do my own build thread once I've made some progress.
Hope you get yours sorted soon, just in time for the good weather.
This is based on an XJ12 and was factory built. It is used in some of the factory literature and was featured in some magazines as well, still has the same registration number.
It has the original Daytona windscreen rather than the TR7.
Very rust free underneath but it only has 16K on the clock and has done very little mileage in the last 25 years so may be genuine.
I'll post some pics tomorrow if it stops raining.
One of the things that persuaded me to buy it is that it is 1976, so if I can get it MOT'd, it won't have to ever have another. I think this will make classics that much more desirable. No MOT, no car tax and £178 insurance plus of course hopefully no depreciation, in fact hopefully the opposite.
With some fettling and TLC then it will definitely appreciate. I'll have to go through my Mags as I'm sure I found an old one recently and read about an XJ based RH Daytona. Might be yours, or I could be imagining it.
Retro fit the old 4 carb set up is going to be the simple route to take if the engine is good in all other respects. If you have any doubt about the rest of the engine it might be worth swopping it out all together for a easier to live with lump such as a Chevy V8 or similar.
The cold and wet weather has halted my project up to now. However, I have acquired a Robin Hood Daytona. I talked myself into it thinking it will help me with my project, how I don't know but I didn't need much persuading.
Last on the road in 2008, failed an MOT in 2016, main items were handbrake, steering rack mounts and emissions. It seems to have new rear pads and the handbrake callipers have new split pins and bolts holding the pads so I am hoping this was done after the MOT failure. Still to look at the rack mounts but I have done them in the past on an XJS that I owned and it wasn't a big job.
My main problem is the carbs, it's a Jaguar V12 pre HE that would originally have had fuel injection. This was removed at some time in the past and replaced with 4 strombergs which is what E types and early XJ12's used. These were then removed and fitted with a set of 6 Weber 40 IDF carbs. It starts and runs but you can smell how rich it is running, doesn't sound smooth and there is quite a bit of spitting back through the carbs.
I found a rolling road locally that advertised "we love setting up classic carbs", as soon as I told them what it was, they went off carbs very rapidly and said they couldn't help.
I have quite a few previous receipts for carb tuning in the past which is suspicious, there is also a bag of carb parts in the boot so it looks as if someone has tried to sort it out in the past, probably without success.
Do you think it is going to be possible to get it running sweetly on the webers and if so any recommendations of someone in the Thames Valley area.
Or would it be a better idea to try and source some strombergs and an inlet manifold.
The final option would be to retrofit fuel injection but I know nothing about how they work and my electrical knowledge is pretty close to zero.
Maybe ask these guys as they sell a carb kit for the v12 they may know somewhere they trust who can set them up ... reading up on them if you get into double figure mpg you are doing well!!!! http://www.rob-beere-racing.co.uk/induction.html
Some pictures as promised, was featured in Kit & Specialist cars November 99
url=https://postimg.cc/image/f2h58cpah/][/url]
Would rather stick with the V12 as it suits the car more than a V8. When revved it sounds very sweet and has great oil pressure so I think it should be OK
I agree the Strombergs will probably be the best option but will probably try and get it tuned on a rolling road first.
Has a nice straight through stainless exhaust with just back boxes, trouble is it has tailpipes that belong on some pimped out rice burner. I wonder what it would sound like with a complete straight through system, after it's MOT of course.
If you get into double figures when driving it, you are driving it wrong!
It is single skinned with a metal frame. The GRP is about an inch thick! It is all very heavily laid up and has stood the test of time well. I do have a Southern Roadcraft bonnet which is a thin flimsy thing in comparison. The Robin Hood seems to be far more substantial.
I have been onto Airey tuning, have a good reputation and are old school, carbs only no injection. More than happy to deal with a V12 6 carb set up, between £4>£500 depending on how many jets are needed. Bonus is it is right by my favourite pub, The Flowerpots in Cheriton.
Car failed its MOT 2 years ago when the last owner bought it, failed on emissions, handbrake and rack mounts. I have spent the day under it and there are new handbrake pads and cable and the rack has new mounts. I know the previous owner took it in for some work, there is a full set of valves and buckets in the boot, he did say they took one head off but didn't seem to know why. Also in the boot is a bag full of new and used jets and diaphragms, I'm hoping they may have improved the emissions, may even be able to get an MOT before having it tuned.
alloys and if I must say so myself they look good. Used spiggot rings on them and the original BMW wheel bolts fitted as well.
hoto:
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