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I had planned to get some Mini electric mirrors and find a way to fit them. However, I figured that I had better spend my time on things that are less visible if they end in failure. So I got some of these. They are not cheap, and difficult to get hold of.
In comparing 2.8's against 3.0's, one of the big advantages of the 3.0 is that all the metal work under the painted panels is painted satin black. This means you can paint your car any colour you like.
The hood will be coming off so the only restriction to colour choice is your interior. As you have a few months before starting the kit you could do the interior first, certainly easier to do now than when the hardtop is bonded on.
In comparing 2.8's against 3.0's, one of the big advantages of the 3.0 is that all the metal work under the painted panels is painted satin black. This means you can paint your car any colour you like.
The hood will be coming off so the only restriction to colour choice is your interior. As you have a few months before starting the kit you could do the interior first, certainly easier to do now than when the hardtop is bonded on.
Well..... if i had known that, I might have got a car a bit quicker. I have been focussing on finding a black or silver one. .. weep
The interior is tan (hearing aid beige), but I plan to do something with the dash/consul and the door cards, so only the carpets really. I will replace the seats, I am already sick of the bolster stabbing me in the back when I get in, then try to pin me in when I am getting out.
Of course, these are just plans, and free of the complications of actually doing anything.
In comparing 2.8's against 3.0's, one of the big advantages of the 3.0 is that all the metal work under the painted panels is painted satin black. This means you can paint your car any colour you like.
The hood will be coming off so the only restriction to colour choice is your interior. As you have a few months before starting the kit you could do the interior first, certainly easier to do now than when the hardtop is bonded on.
My blue 2.2 is all satin black under the bonnet. It looks like it was factory done like that from new.
The seller commented that he had fitted a new battery. After a long journey home, and a round trip to Chichester, I had only done a few short trips over several days. Then off to Oman for an 8 day holiday. battery flat on return.
I know it is a common feature with BMWs generally, and the Z3 forums indicate a variety of possibilities. Just waiting for the battery to charge before going through the obvious ones mentioned so far:
Boot courtesy light, Boot wiring, Seat adjustment buttons, media centre (this could be a contender as the previous owner had a Panasonic pop out unit fitted), internal courtesy light, remote central locking, for starters.
I will have to get round to Maplins to get a multimeter so I can check everything more thoroughly. If that sounds like I know what I am doing, don't be fooled.But the various bits of advice about checking the circuits via the fuses makes sense.
Take both battery terminals off and give the posts and terminals a good clean. Make sure that the terminals are really tight, check that they can't rotate.
I have had problems both with the Z3 and a few E46's in the past.
BMW use a 10mm bolt that tightens the terminals from the bottom which is not a good system as it doesn't seem to tighten the terminals enough.
You think the battery is dead and recharge it but it turns out that disturbing the terminals brings it back to life.
Thanks Jag, I will double check the tightness of the bolts tomorrow. I am still going to get a meter and check the draw on the various fuses though just in case. It only costs £9.99 from Maplin.
I still find on the Z3 that if left for a few weeks it won't turn over as if the battery is flat. Give both terminals a firm tap to twist them slightly and it will then start.
The clamps appear tight and are clean. I have exactly the same with the E46 sitting on the drive.
When checking the residual current drain after turning the ignition off- it will be higher for the first 30 seconds whilst the alarm system stabilises. Then it drops down to the true value.
I have removed the fuses for circuits supplying my power seats.
I will take a look when I get back to the UK later this week. There is some movement of the driver seat on braking and heavy acceleration, but as I plan to change the seats, I will most likely address it then. No harm checking in the meantime.
WRT to seat bush issue. I once worked with a very nice lady who took her Mondeo in for some remedial work. When I dropped her off to collect it, the mechanic manfully kept a straight face whilst advising her that her problem was a split bush.
Hi Barber,
I have been chasing what I thought was a drain issue also, the same from the previous seller that a relatively new battery was fitted. After doing the “parasitic drain tests” with every locked up, alarm on etc (ammeter in series) I was only getting 40ma of drain which is normal.
Subsequent testing (and a bit of history digging) finds the battery rated at 580cca has only got approx 280cca capacity and had been run flat at least 8 times in the last 18 months. Very heavily sulphated battery. Now at the battery reconditioner hopefully can be resurrected for at least a year or so whilst I build the project.
Not saying yours is the same, but check for your parasitic drain and if the car checks out ok, check your alternator charge is good and then focus in on the battery.....you never know how it has been previously treated. Cheers Mark
They are one of the finishing touches. The other one is the Lucas P700 headlights with the tribar on, I know they weren't fitted on the originals but any kits I see without them just look as if they are missing something.
One of the style features I liked from the various marques, is the dual filler caps on the Astons. A little bit of an extravagance, but worth it I think. Obviously the nearside one doesn't have to function, and the offside one is lockable, and has the through funnel.
Now I have to get the boring gubbins on the underside, based on JagTVRs work. On the Astons, the filler caps are slightly further back than on the 250 SWBs so not sure if that will have an impact. I'll have to discuss with Chris.
These are Mocal ones from Burton Power, £258 for the pair.
Wheels and tyres next most likely, as Chris needs them for when the panel work commences after Christmas. I should be getting the dashboard to be fitting during December.
All the advise about getting the donor in good time is well given. On Saturday morning, after a heavy night's rain, and light drizzle on the way to meet up with an old schoolpal, I discovered a very soggy floor mat on the driver side. I should have guessed something was amiss when the seller threw in a very nice car cover when I bought the car.
It looks like it is the windshield cowl, there is a 2mm gap at the centre for a stretch of several inches. In searching for remedies, came across Captain Tolleys Creeping Crack Cure, which caused much hilarity amongst friends and family.
I don't think I will have to take the cowl off, one posting says you can use a putty knife to get under the cowl and insert the nozzle of a non silicone sealant. Whilst I wait for samples of both that and the Captains remedy (I couldn't resist) to arrive, - black gaffer tape to the rescue. I am not proud.
Very nice Barber. I like those fillers good choice! Sorry to hear about the water leak, but better you know now than later in the piece when it can do more damage. Fingers crossed for what you find under the carpet...Hopefully not a long term issue.
They are one of the finishing touches. The other one is the Lucas P700 headlights with the tribar on, I know they weren't fitted on the originals but any kits I see without them just look as if they are missing something.
The repros I am looking at (Stafford) are the same price with or without the tribar, so no reason not to really.
"Captain Tolleys Creeping Crack Cure"
You really do have no shame, shouldn't this have been posted on another forum?
If you have a look at my build, the positioning of the fuel filler was decided by trying to get it as high in the wheel arch as possible. If you remember the pictures of Smash's filler, it was badly crimped and would take ages to fill the tank.
Mine still requires you to fill at half speed but makes a big difference, I had to cut into the shell but bent the cut metal rather than remove it.
Don't use the fluted flexible fuel pipe, use the straight type as the fuel flows through it much quicker. The pipe sits above the inner wheel arch plastic so it is protected from road debris.
If you move the filler caps further back, the fuel pipe will have ti rise over the wheel arch meaning you will get a much slower fill time and there will always be fuel sloshing around in the rear low end of the pipe. would be much better to fit it at the highest point to help with fuel flow.
