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Wardy's A352

12 Feb 2018, 10:25am
Steve
I fitted 15" wires to my herald based 352 the tires are Firestone 165 R15 86T and yes they will foul the front chassis on full lock If you look at page 8 of my build you will see how to sort it out I eventually used 40mm long sliding stops. you may also need wheel spacers to bring the wheels closer to the edge of the arches I used cheapo 32mm ones of ebay but will change them for some quality ones before it goes on the road.
Cheers

Deggsy
13 Feb 2018, 7:42am
15" Wheels

Wardy50 wrote:
With regard to wheel sizes, has anybody fitted 15" and what tyre size did you fit. Subsequently were there any issues with clearance in the arches??

Hi Steve

I fitted 15" TR6 wheels to my A352. I used hub adaptors after swapping the wheel studs for Range Rover ones, these increased the track about 15mm each side. I put hose clips on the outer ends of the rack to limit the lock but the tyres still fouled on the footwell part of the bulkhead, which I had to cut away and recess a good inch.



I first made the panel to fill this hole from thin ally, flattened it and used it as a template for the galvanised steel item which was seam welded. It still needed a little cold dressing with a lump hammer before I was happy with the clearance.

At the back I lined the arches with aluminium sheet using pop rivets and GRP. The 155 80 15 tyres (VW Beetle, for that 50s look) foul a little on bump but the nice MOT man has turned a blind eye :)

I'm fitting 15" MGF wheels to my Spitfire chassied Moss Monaco, as the PCD is also 3.75". I'm using Range Rover studs and nuts again, but, with the open wheeler design, fouling won't be a problem other than on full lock. I'll use the hose clip trick again to combat this.

Regards, Mick
14 Feb 2018, 9:36am
Deggsy and Mick,
Thanks for the responses on the wheel sizes and clearances.
Did you both fit the offset hub adapters that are available, or the standard?? I opted for the offset ones which I'm thinking does away with the need for the spacers?? I'll try and post a pic later.
I'm also thinking of playing with tyre sizes to reduce fouling.
By my calc's the standard 13" wheels, fitted with say 165 wide and 80 aspect tyres, would have a rolling diameter of 595mm.
The 15" wheels, again fitted with 165 wide but 65 aspect tyres, would again have a rolling diameter of 595mm.
I appreciate your input on this gents based on your previous experience - to save me re-inventing the wheel as it were!!
Cheers
Steve.
15 Feb 2018, 9:04am
Hub Adaptors Saga

Wardy50 wrote:
Deggsy and Mick,
Did you both fit the offset hub adapters that are available, or the standard??

This post details which adaptors I bought, and the problems that I encountered fitting them.

Regards, Mick
15 Feb 2018, 10:28am
no offset on mine as far as I know I bought them as a complete set off a friend. Which were fitted to a Burlington arrow (abandoned project) and the tires are quite narrow so wheel spacers definitely needed, I will also be fitting the longer spitfire 1500 drive shafts which I have recently rebuilt.
Cheers
Derek
20 Feb 2018, 9:24am
Morning gents,
Think I've finally decided on which way to go with the wheels after a bit of research!!
Going with 4.5J x 15" with 165/60/15 tyres. I reckon this is a 579mm rolling diameter, with the original GT6 with 13" wires having a rolling diameter of 575mm.
Mick I reckon your set up with the larger profiles bought you in at around 630mm, hence the contact issues. I do fully understand the logic in the selection though, and the period look of that profile. I just don't know if after all the body and bulkhead repairs I carried out if I'm prepared to hack into them again!!
These are the offset spline adapters I fitted for information to accommodate the 14 or 15" wire wheels, the standard ones for Triumph 13" are simply not long enough for the splined 42mm MG fitment.
Front hub by Steve Ward, on Flickr
Once again thanks for all the info on your builds gents.
11 Mar 2018, 6:20pm
Good evening all, just a quick update on the build. feels like a momentous day as the engine's now in with most of the ancillaries. A few hiccups where the engine guys had fitted the 2000TC sump instead of the GT6, which led to a few clashes until I realised. Also had to play about with the engine mounts and move a few of the front brake lines to accommodate.
Exhaust will have to come off as one of the manifolds clashes with the front chassis upright, but still overall pleased with such a milestone moment.
Thoughts now turn to getting the Spitfire tub back on and arranging to get the A352 body from Dan.
IMG_1683 by Steve Ward, on Flickr
IMG_1681 by Steve Ward, on Flickr
14 Mar 2018, 6:26am
Steve – You have certainly created a high standard base for your A352. :cool:

I’m also a little jealous of your garage, tools, skills, other car, etc. :icon_wink:

Good luck, Paul. :)
15 Mar 2018, 9:32am
Hi Paul,
Many thanks for the reply, and your comments re the car. Build quality maybe OK from a distance - but don't look too close!
I know I'm lucky having the space that I have to work in, I know a lot of these builds are carried out in rather more exposed positions!
The other car is an ERA30H from Tiger, and is pretty much a road going race car. My wife refuses to set foot in it again, hence the A352 build to produce something a little more passenger friendly (doors, heater, windscreen etc).
Anyway, need to pull my finger out now to avoid another missed summer!
Cheers
Steve.
4 Apr 2018, 6:37pm
Tubs on !

Gents,
So the tubs back on, and after all the work on the chassis I can't say I'm overly pleased to see it there! Not the most pleasing look!
Next jobs steering column and wheel back on, radiator and cooling hoses coupled up, fuel tank and lines plumbed in to carbs and then get the body on. Apparently there are a large number of 'domestic' items that require attention, so progress maybe delayed whilst brownie points are accrued!
Cheers
Steve
Tub 1 by Steve Ward, on Flickr
Tub 2 by Steve Ward, on Flickr
5 Apr 2018, 5:14am
Looking Good!

That puts my underpinnings to shame! Simply superb :)

Regards, Mick
8 Apr 2018, 9:06am
Bit more progress, and the body is on!!
Body on by Steve Ward, on Flickr
Fitting to the tub was relatively easy with no cutting or rework necessary. When it's on the deck though, its sitting high at the back (even though I fitted a 1" lowering block to the spring!) and needs lowering by about another 40mm, probably by modifying the vertical links and dropping the spring mounting points.
Came to fit the bonnet though and things are not so good!
Both of the SU's clash:
IMG_1720 by Steve Ward, on Flickr
And the rocker cover:
IMG_1721 by Steve Ward, on Flickr
The SU's will be fairly easy with a bonnet blister to suit, and I'll take the opportunity to use it as an air intake for the carbs too.
The rocker cover not as simple. I'm thinking of cutting around the perimeter of the existing bulge, lifting and then glassing back in about an inch higher.
Did anyone else get this, and if so what approach did you take??
Cheers
Steve.
8 Apr 2018, 1:53pm
I'd give Dan a call or email first as I am sure I have heard about a couple of these that were fitted too low and had clearance issues but when fitted as the kit supplier intended everything works out fine ...
8 Apr 2018, 7:56pm
I just can't get over the garage.
9 Apr 2018, 8:06am
Thanks for the response and advice, and yes I'm going to send some pics to Dan before I start cutting for his take on it.
I can't see that it's wrong though (with respect to height) as it site nicely on the Spit tub front and rear, and the 'tabs' were right height on the bulkhead.
The only thing I thought last night was maybe the body wasn't far enough forward, resulting in the bonnet also being pulled back hence the clashes?? This also doesn't ring true however as the main position indicator for the body is the fuel filler 'dimple' to the original Spit filler hole.
It's an odd one, as I know a few people have fitted the 6 cylinder with no issues.
When I get an answer from Dan I'll post it for information.
Thanks
Steve.
9 Apr 2018, 4:55pm
Told you I should have come to look at it!! ;)

it's possible that you may have to remove a leaf like I did - that'll make it lower for sure - but until you drive it there's no way of knowing if the ride is too hard or not I suppose.
10 Apr 2018, 7:53am
Hi Paul,
Yeah see what happens when I'm left to my own devices!!
I've left the bonnet propped up for a now in the corner while I do some more mechanical jobs.
I'll get back to it when there's more time to concentrate, as I need to know the body is correctly located before I forge on with finishing off the bulkhead to allow brake lines, cylinders and all the pedals to go back in.
Cheers
Steve.
10 May 2018, 8:27am
Gents,
A bit of advice on the rebody process and DVLA application please, to avoid any pitfalls / obstructions that others have fallen foul of.
Is it a V627/1 form that I use, and what other supporting doc's are required?
With the body on and bonnet, doors and boot fitted can I apply now?
I've made them aware of the engine change to 6 cylinder and had the V5 back for that.
All advice appreciated please - hopefully a lot simpler than the IVA I went through last year!!
Cheers in anticipation
Steve.
11 May 2018, 6:26am
Wardy50 wrote:

Is it a V627/1 form that I use, and what other supporting doc's are required?
Hi Steve

If memory serves me, together with the fully completed V627/1, I sent two photographs, ¾ views front and rear showing the number plates, the soon to be old V5C, and the original receipt for the purchase of the body from Tribute.

I don't have time to search for it now, but I recall a learned post somewhere on the forum which stated authoritatively that, in the photographs submitted, 'It just has to look like a car'. These are the two which I sent.





Regards, Mick
11 May 2018, 6:43am
Thanks Mick.
Can you remember is they're bothered with a current MOT or insurance, or just the V5?
If it's as simple as that I'll apply now and leave time for any problems or inspections that may come along.
While I've got you as well, are the rear stop / tail lights Morris Minor? They don't look like the early Spit ones??
Cheers
Steve.
11 May 2018, 7:34am
You can do the V5 changes with just a V5c , no MOT or Insurance documentation required . Only one of the pictures needs to show the number plate , but I tend to hang it on the new body , even if its just taped or cable tied ...
When filling it in , in the extra notes section be sure to stress that the vehicle is a re-body only , no chassis or running gear changes have been carried out and its just the replacement bodyshell . Also , state that as per DVLA current regulations , this entitles you to retain your original reg. no. vin no. and classic car status but the model name must change to reflect the new bodyshell , which is a ****** .
I tend to quote an example thats already been done as a reference too ...so quote Micks reg no. or something ...

I know it seems over the top to keep stressing the same thing , but there are people in these depts that have not done very much of this at all ...and giving them a little nudge to how it works and a previous case they can read the notes on , if required , can't do any harm and might just save you getting a letter from someone who has gotten the process all wrong .....I have had to explain on the phone how they need to do it before , after getting info back saying IVA required !!
11 May 2018, 7:45am
Wardy50 wrote:

Is it a V627/1 form that I use, and what other supporting doc's are required?


Hi Steve
I've done a couple of these now, in addition to the V627/1, V5 and the photos Mick suggested I also sent a picture of the original car showing the number plate and a covering letter explaining that the original chassis or monocoque body has been retained and unaltered. They are also very keen on having a receipt for the body kit.
I have never included MOT or Insurance information.
Best regards
Neil

P.S. Keep a copy of everything you send them, this process is not their "bread and butter" so it can get shunted around case workers a bit and could easily get lost.
11 May 2018, 7:50am
Cheers LL, very helpful.
I know exactly what you mean about DVLA. When I had passed the IVA with the Tiger ERA, I applied for a V5 using the Tiger chassis number which was an approved standard, on a plate and welded to the new powder coated chassis.
They began by insisting that this should be ground off and a new one of their choosing made up and welded on.
Several letters and a phone call from Jim at Tiger eventually saw sense prevail, but really highlighted the pen pushers real lack of understanding of the industry or the process involved.
Your 'expect the worse and you can only be pleasantly surprised' approach makes perfect sense.
Once again thanks.
Steve.
11 May 2018, 7:53am
Cheers Neil,
Exactly the info I needed.
Steve
11 May 2018, 8:04am
Yes , as Neil says , picture of original donor vehicle showing its number plate is compulsory ...2 pictures minimum , one of original , one showing new body ...
Guys buying rolling chassis will struggle with that one a bit ..especially rolling chassis with very old V5's ..as that will flag up extra questions ...

And definitely photocopy everything ....and make a note of when sent and also invest in special delivery ...they have been known to deny getting documents at all ...hard to dispute if someone signs for it !

I had a case that was going on and on ..chased it and eventually got a call back saying no documentation could be found ..I needed to re-submit everything ...little hard to do when they have your V5c ..so advice was include £25 for a new V5c !! then , genuinely , 3 days later , a different lady calls me and says ..'' I'm just processing your application and ..... '' They are a bit special sometimes ...