This is a read-only archive of the old Madabout Kitcars forum. New posts and replies are no longer possible, but every thread is still here to browse and read.
I wanted the biggest size wheels/tires as possible. Gary told me 165/80/15 should be the biggest size if you make some alterations. I think bigger wheels look great. But, there are limits because of the outrigger (chassis) and the bulkhead. I was also a bit concerned about the dynamics of the wheel. When breaking the wheel will move a liittle to the back. And in high speed the tire will expand a little. So there must be enough clearance. Getting a large hammer to do the trick, wasn't exactly what I had in mind. I took photo's on the way which tell how I did it. Because like you told me, we all like photo's!
Here is an update on the changes I made to the steering column. I don't know the filosofy behind the Triumph Vitesse steering, but I don't like the design so much. The steering wheel is off centred to the driver seat and the face of the wheel has an angle towards the length axle of the car. Very strange if you aren't used to it. Besides that, I would like to have the steering wheel further to me.
First of all, I bought a 15" steering wheel with a small centre hole. Then a splined quick release steering hub. I had an additional aluminium hub beeing made that would fit between steering wheel and this quick release hub.
I got a combination of two U-Joints from a Corolla (I beleive). The rod between the two can slide so you can change the distance between the two. On top of one of the u-joint's I got a flattened rod that fitts the inner steering column tube. With the two possibilities to change distance and two U-joints, I can move the steering wheel whatever it suits me. I changed the frame around the steering wheel area. (also necessary for acompaning the instruments). I made a very strong bracket that would support the steering column. Some welding and an aluminium clamp that I also had beeing made. I re-used the the original clamp aswell. The two clamps have a very strong grip om the outer column tube. The rod that goes thru the the bulkhead had to be supported. A plate with a "nuckle-bearing" would do the trick. It all was a little more complicated then I anticipated, but it works very well. It feels rock solid and the position is perfect. I got the steering wheel, the seat and the hump, all in one line now.
Using the swing spring seems to be a good way to improve the ride and it's a common modification.
I did two things that I haven't read about on this forum before (but I could have overlooked). Firstly when I overhauled a swing spring, I renewed all the nylon/plastic caps that are between the leafs as well (besides the bushes and the pivot). The leafs should be able to move on top eachother smoothly. Mostly the plastic caps are gone or worn. New caps changes the ride (smoother), and the ride hight a little.
Secondly I had to make a modification to the brake hose. Normally you can mount the brake hose directly to the cylinder. However, the swing spring has a much bigger end (where it is fixed to the vertical). This is in the way, drawing a straight line from the hose connection on the cylinder. There is a good chance that you will be able to get the hose on. Maybe even by jacking the car a bit to give some space. And maybe it's also related to the size of lowering block (I use 1"). But you have to realise that there will be wheel travel on the ride. The last thing you want is the hose connection braking when pushed aside (repeatedly) by the spring end. (It's a single cirquit braking system and you will loose every brake!). The spitfires using the swing spring do have a modification standard. Using the bigger rear drums of a Vitesse, you need to modify them yourselve.
Here's something about another way for placing the battery. My thoughts were: The battery is quite a heavy object and therefore must have a negative influence on the handeling of the car, when placed on a high position. So better not on top of the bulkhead. And if I'm adding a big lump of weight, don't pick the side that's allready much more heavy, bringing the car more out off balance. What if I can place the battery behind the seats? Maybe in a kind of cubby box?
And this is exactly what I did. Betweeen the fuel tank and the seats is enough room for some sort of cubby box. The difficulty was to make a construction that could be dismantled with the body fixed on top of the frame. With this feature I can dismantle the whole of the cubby box from the inside out, giving access to the fuel tank for example.
This is a different way to do the electrics of a Spyder. My origial loom is 45 years old, isn't up to modern functions like a electric fan, suits a dynamo instead of an alternator, got some changes allong the way, and doesn't fit the the dash design of my Spyder. In short, it won't do the job.
I got myself a new electric platform from Car Builder Solutions. It has all the fuses and Relais for all the functions you need. It comes with some explaining and is in fact very easy to use.
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Then I bought a new wire loom. From a Triumph TR3a. I could get this one for a nice price. It has all the basics you need for the Spyder. Then I cut it to pieces.
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I made myself a nice new Spyder loom, with all the right color markings, using the wires from the TR3a loom.
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Most of the work, and most of the wiring I used for a module I made myself. I really would like to have single red lightning at the rear. It means combining lightning, brake lights and indicator lightning in 1 dual fitment bulb.
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The wiring is all new then. I thought of an alternative way to make the wiring diagram. It turned out not to be that practical and I wouldn't advise it. But hey, it's better then nothing at all right?
Hi Cabbage,
Speaking of clean, you are doing a great job yourself!
Just read your own thread again from the beginning. Looks like we have the same goal: creating a car that can fool anyone leaving all modern characteristics out. But to answer your question, I'm not aware of problems with the usage of the mechanical pump. That's probably why I never gave it even a thought of replacing it by a electric pump. I just bought a new mechanical pump, which was pretty cheap btw. Mmmm, do you tink that's is just the problem? I do want the car to be (relatively) reliable.
thanks although i haven't quite reached the level of detail you have.
a lot of triumph owners in the club upgrade to an electronic pump if they use there cars a lot or compete with them as it improves reliability considerably.
as you said, im trying to use old parts wherever i can to make it as authentic an experience as possible, however i also need it to be usable.
in short the mechanical pumps need a lot of tlc, create extra noise, and do not provide a stable fuel pressure whereas an electronic pump when run alongside a fuel pressure regulator can provide a stable constant pressure of fuel making it far easier to setup the carbs to be reliable, and also the electronic system is not effected by change in temperature.
a basic fuel pump and regulator isn't expensive so might be worth it.
in my case i will hide the new fuel pump under the fuel tank so it isn't visible in the engine bay.
i have a lot of progress to take photos of so i will try and post some pics tonight :-)
I wondered if Canley or Rimmer would offer a kit for upgrading the mechanical pump to a electric pump. Neither. Moss, does however. Not quite a kit, but you can get pump and regulator. I asume it's not that common to make the change, but evidently there are advantages. Maybe I can prepare my car for a future upgrade by laying a fuel return pipe and a electric wire.
I think thats probably due to Rimmer and Canley catering for people doing restorations rather that people racing or time trialing there cars, so forums is more the place to get the info, and for buying the parts, just workout the fuel pressure range your engine requires (which is easily google'd) and get a pump and regulator to match that.
The most common mistake is people getting a big fuel pump and forcing far to much fuel in at a high pressure, our engines require relatively small pumps and low pressure.
I will be fitting my pump and regulator soon so i'll make sure to post it all on here for you. :-)
Today I test fitted the body after I had changed the rear. Finally I could see the result and I'm quite pleased with it.
I found it difficult to determin what hight to aim for. I think that the suspension will lower itself some bit after a few hundred miles. And offcourse some weight will be added.
The pictures tell the story I suppose.
This is the body how I got it from Poole.
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There was quite some lumbness in this design and the left side seemed like it was melting.
I cut the rear to pieces and tried some techniques.
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This is the result. (I will use this exhaust, but cut it down a bit to a more suitable size).
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Looks like I will need some modification on my own Sammio. Thanks for that little nugget.
