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My rears are 15" rims, with 225/55 tyres, giving a total diameter of 24 1/4", 2" more than the standard MX.
Lowered 40mm on £500 worth of KYB shocks, adjustable.
The fronts are 185/70s I think.
The original 250GTO ran 15" 185/80 all round. 26" diameter.
Got it mate, sorry I forgot cos I was still looking at 16s at the time.tbh wheel choice has been a headache that's now gone mate so cheers
I'm gonna have to do some research to find out what all the terminology to do with wheels actually relates to but I've got a question in the mean time - if you fit larger wheels & tyres to the car so that the overall circumference is increased, how easy is it to alter the speedo etc so it's still accurate?
I'm thinkin' about eventually getting some wider, larger wheels to help keep my ass on the black stuff but just working out how feasible it would be.
Hey Bongo where you been?
You can use this tool, to show what each variant does to you speedo. [URL="www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html"]www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html[/URL]
Bought my donor last October and have been clarting about with it (very slowly) since then.
Been sorting out the rear heated screen, bulbs, window motors & guides etc. Just little faffy things that I'm able to potter about with myself on my drive before I get on with checking all is spot on under the bonnet & servicing brakes, suspension and that. Once all that's done I'll be looking to order the 250c kit.
Oh and had a leaky fuel tank too - petrol was pi$$ing out the draining bolt. So yeah - been fairly busy but haven't achieved an awful lot just yet!
Okey cokey - I think I've just realised where I've been getting confused.
Until now I'd assumed that the rolling out of the rear arch was to accommodate a larger diameter wheel but by reading back through other threads I've picked up on the fact that it's the width / offset or spacing of the wheels that change to give the car a wider footprint and look better with the wider bodywork.
Hi seanick. Can you post a picture of the wheels. I am having major wheels stress. I may be interested.
Hi Dave
Sorry but I took Nick's rear wheels in p/x on kit some bits. I will fit them on the rear of our workshop car and see how they fit with the kit. If OK, and you can find some fronts to match, I am sure we can do a deal.
[QUOTE=Tribute Automotive;40627]I think they are 7J front and 8J rear with 15mm ET, with a 30 mm spacer on the rear only, but I am sure Grahame will confirm that.[/
your right Chris, I forgot to tell Hienrich about the spacers so hopefully he'll see this
Gents I am in need of 3 space saver wheels for my build. Once built I will happily pass them on for the cost of postage to the next needy builder, cheers
Gents I am in need of 3 space saver wheels for my build. Once built I will happily pass them on for the cost of postage to the next needy builder, cheers
hi hHammy Ive got a set of original alloys you can have if you want to collect them
I do have a pair of 15" five spoke Revolutions for sale, 11"J, drilled for ford or Jap, ie 4x108 or 4x100.
They are new, never fitted. You would just need two fronts which are available again.
Ooooh they are big wheels Nick!!! Very 60's Drag Car. I do have a Lexus V8 and gearbox, and I do know they fit in the MX5...........
In Holland we also have a very good manufacturer, who makes wire wheels for motors and also cars and can make the adapter more wide, so no spacers. http://www.haanwheels.com/nl/classic/
OK, so correct me if I am wrong but the wheel tyre choices are:
1. Get out the cheque book and but some new wheels tyres and spacers for the rear. Cost starting from £350 for the wheels, £300 for the tyres (or £150 for second hand) and about £100 for spacers. Premium wheels and tyres will be about double this cost.
2. Get some steel wheels banded. Probably about the same cost as above by the time you have bought the wheels and got them sandblasted and painted.
3. Buy secondhand wheels and tyres from ebay/gumtree. Choices are a bit limited but requirements are roughly:
- Tyre diameter around 24"
- Rims 15, 16 or 17
- 4 x 100 pcd required with appropriate spigot rings if using wheels with greater than 54.1 centre hole
- ET (offset) needs to be around 20. Most of the 4 x100's are for smaller fwd cars so the ET's tend to be about 40. This would need 20mm spacers on the front and 70mm on the rear (not even sure if 70mm are feasible)
- in any case for 20et wheels rear spacers will still be required about 2"
- The majority of the second hand wheels and tyres that would be suitable started life on 3 series BMW's (E30 model) although there will be some aftermarket clio/vw/mx5 ones around
- All in cost for this will be from £400
- There is also the option to go for wheels with a different pcd, Ford for example, which will require various adaptors, the rear ones would probably need fabricating.
Beautiful kit, I will be building one as soon as I have scraped the money together. In the meantime, I'm showing my ignorance. I understand the technicalities of the build itself but see that there is talk about offset and spacers for the wheel fitting. In laymans terms and as simple as possible with paint by numbers if possible, what will I need to do or adapt to get wheels to fit? No laughin, I really am not that bright and thank all the gods of computer tech that this iPad does al the speling for mi!
My wheels, which are steel, went something like this....
Steel wheels, ex mk1 MR2, 15" 6J. £115, inc postage
Banded the rears for 225 tyres £75 plus 30 fuel
shotblast and powder coat four wheels £100
four part used tyres 225 rears, and 185 fronts, giving me a matching diameter of 24 1/4", two inches larger than the standard MX 5.....£120.
Spinners....£20 ish
Fitting and balancing £40
Total £485
May seem expensive but its the look I want, and I am not keen on alloys!!
I dont know what the offset on the rears is but I made the body 2" narrower each side so I dont need spacers. See my thread for the gory details.
Hope this helps!
