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Have you checked the amount of free play in between the slave cylinder and the release arm. If you grab hold of the release arm there should probably only be about a millimetre of movement back and forth. Same thing at the pedal end, and if there's adjustment on the rods, both master cylinder to pedal and slave to release arm (I've not looked that closely at my Vitesse but Jaguars are all adjustable for free play), then taking up excess free play will bring the pedal bite point up. Hydraulic clutch systems are self adjusting and your pedal should stay the same as the clutch wears.
ive removed the slave cylinder there`s no adjustment on the push rod, im going to fit new seals, and then the engineer in me says. Renotch the pinch bolt and see if i can move the slave clyinder forward a small amout. in return will give me a higher up bite on my pedal.
OK gents, ive re`sealed the slave cylinder and moved it forward 10mm on the pinch bolt, I have a little more movement on my pedal away from the floor before it bites, but its still low to the floor, any IDEAS
Do you have a lot of pedal travel before the clutch fork starts moving?
Have you tried jamming fork as I previously suggested to make sure hydraulics are OK.
OK gents, ive re`sealed the slave cylinder and moved it forward 10mm on the pinch bolt, I have a little more movement on my pedal away from the floor before it bites, but its still low to the floor, any IDEAS
Has to be a leak at the master cylinder end. Remember these can leak past the piston without losing any fluid, unlike the slave which shows if it leaks.
A quick test for this which I think should work. Prop the pedal down and leave for a bit. If the pedal is still down but clutch is disengaged it's a leak in the hydraulics.
Hi guys, when you bought the car was it a driver. If it had stood, what was the clutch like. I have seen cars that have stood where the release arm has siezed or was at least binding, and when the clutch was operated it actually bent the arm so ultimately you had no "throw" on the clutch. The ford 100e engine in my "another One on the road" thread was just like that. I bought the gearbox seperately and when joined together, I found the clutch had no throw no matter how I adjusted it. As I didn't have another release arm, in true motor trade tradition, I looked at it, studied it, went and made a cup of tea, studied it a bit more, offered it up and followed it's natuaral path of operation and then bashed it with the biggest hammer I could find and it then worked! I have had this on other early Fords and Vauxhalls as well.
hi Rocker, i had the release arm out all seems fine to me, there isnt very much movement, and its only a tiny clutch plate, i think i will upgrade my master cylinder tho.. give me bit more push .
what's the condition of the clutch release bearing and does it match the type of clutch? The parts catalogues show different numbers for diaphragm and coil spring clutches - there might be a dimensional difference causing you problems...