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GOO,
I think my kit is a sister one to yours. I am in Canada until next week but you can borrow what you like from front and rear suspension if you need it. Although the suspension is on the car its just hanging and not tightened up. I wont be getting to that for yonks.
PM me if needed and we will sort it out. John
GOO,
I think my kit is a sister one to yours. I am in Canada until next week but you can borrow what you like from front and rear suspension if you need it. Although the suspension is on the car its just hanging and not tightened up. I wont be getting to that for yonks.
PM me if needed and we will sort it out. John
John - that is a really nice gesture/offer.
Knowing Marlin's service levels you might need them back before GOO takes delivery of his replacement bits!!!!
Mike
Back from deepest darkest Devon. Terry didn't have any parts on hand, so I'm going to have to wait for them to make them.
I may need to send my other suspension parts to them as a pattern, as she said they've changed the front suspension again.
In other news, I've started a claim with Adrian Flux. My excess is £150, and as current repair spending is £215 without any figures from Marlin for the Suspension bits or Normandale for the Fibre repair, I guess I may as well see if I can claim as much as I can back.
God knows what it'll do to my premium next year... :/
Let's hope they don't take too long making some new wishbones
Your steering link 'popping' out of the ball joint got me thinking about what the minimum number of threads should be?
When I recently took my nearside suspension apart and I found I had only 5 threads engaged in the ball joint.
I found the following quote on the web...
" The following rules of thumb are suggested for arriving at reasonable lengths of thread for steel screws used with screwed holes in weaker materials.
For steel a length of thread engagement of at least 1 x Nominal dia's of the thread
For Cast Iron or brass or bronze the thread engagement should be at least 1,5 x Nominal dia's of the thread
For Aluminium , zinc or plastices the thread engagement should be at least 2 x Nominal dia's of the thread "
Any mechanical engineers with us who can advise or have a better set of rules?
I haven't checked the other side of the car yet....
I have always understood that for steel threads a length equal to the thread diameter was the absolute minimum. This assumes that all parts are new i.e. no wear or corrosion, so for safety maybe 1.5 times the diameter would be good.
Have a look at the following link for the coupling used on the old railway carriages. Note the diameter of the threaded portion. For the first coupling behind the engine this is capable of pulling the weight of the whole train, so how many tons is that!
Let's hope they don't take too long making some new wishbones
Your steering link 'popping' out of the ball joint got me thinking about what the minimum number of threads should be?
When I recently took my nearside suspension apart and I found I had only 5 threads engaged in the ball joint.
I found the following quote on the web...
" The following rules of thumb are suggested for arriving at reasonable lengths of thread for steel screws used with screwed holes in weaker materials.
For steel a length of thread engagement of at least 1 x Nominal dia's of the thread
For Cast Iron or brass or bronze the thread engagement should be at least 1,5 x Nominal dia's of the thread
For Aluminium , zinc or plastices the thread engagement should be at least 2 x Nominal dia's of the thread "
Any mechanical engineers with us who can advise or have a better set of rules?
I haven't checked the other side of the car yet....
Hmm - when you think about it the thread on a full nut is probably about the same as the diameter of the thread so that would make sense.
Phone call from AF - they're sending out an engineer to take a look at the damage. They've agreed that I can do the work myself and invoice them, so long as the engineer is happy with my assessment of the damage.
Phone call from AF - they're sending out an engineer to take a look at the damage. They've agreed that I can do the work myself and invoice them, so long as the engineer is happy with my assessment of the damage.
Does that mean you can make a reasonable charge for your time?
If so, normal garage rates are around £90/hour!!
On that basis, my car has cost around £2 million to build so far, and still rising
I'm not sure if I can claim for my time - technically I should, as any garage would. Hmmm... A question for Mr Flux I think.
The bumper is definitely OK now - I've just come in from the garage after giving the once over with some sanding flaps and my polishing mops, and you'd be hard pressed to know that it had hit anything. Result.
I haven't checked the other side of the car yet....
I checked the other side tonight and found it was 15 turns to unscrew the track rod end. So I had 5 threads one side and 15 the other. They must have got unbalanced in the lead up to my SVA when I was trying numerous toe-in/out settings to get the self centering to work.
I think I'm going to reset them to 10 threads each side which should give me with the same toe-in setting.
My replacement alloys, along with some ratty old tyres turned up today.
I will need to get the old tyres off and take them to be powder coated to match the others, but they look in very good nick - probably in better condition than the ones that have been damaged where before they where refurbed.
The insurance assessor / engineer is visiting tomorrow to take a look at the patient - fingers crossed he says it's ok for me to do the repairs. I can't see why he wouldn't, considering I built it in the first place, and its just a spattering job.
Once he's gone, I'll have the rack off and parcel it up to go up to Kiley Clinton for the new track rods.
Also, John (Oaktree) is coming down to visit tomorrow with a live Marlin organ transplant. I'm expecting flashing lights and everything!
I just need quotes for the wishbones and the fibre repair. Everything else he's got costs for, as I had the invoices to hand for the replacement bits I've got.
He told me that in these cases they usually reimburse me for the total amount on repairs, less the excess. Which is fair enough, considering the total so far, with an estimate £250 for the fibre, but no price yet for the Marlin bits stands at £840...
I've been cleaning up the chassis and new wishbones ready to rebuild, and I've found a MAJOR issue. The top suspension turret welded in rear 'boss' has been bent by a couple of degrees in toward the engine bay - so the top 10mm pin won't slide through!
I've tried to spring it out using a pry bar, but it's not shifting.
I've also tried heating up the sheet metal that it's welded to and then tapped on it with a drift and a big hammer - bit that isn't working either.
I'm not sure that it got that hot (I think my torch is almost out of gas), as I didn't even take the powder coat off. But I'm getting worried that I won't be able to fix this.
I'm going to get some more gas tomorrow, and try again. I may also try using my slide hammer to pull it back into line. I'm not optimistic though.
