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M20 Engine Info and advice

12 Aug 2010, 9:21pm
Simon

Thanks for the valuable and practical "used in real life" input.

I think I will go down the compression strut route and then determine if and by how much I need to mod the bulkhead, can you tell me where you sourced your compression struts from.

Do I understand correctly from your comments that regardless of using compression struts you still felt the the need to modify the bulkhead.

Regards


John
12 Aug 2010, 10:09pm
John,

I think a few places sell the Sierra compression struts (including Ebay on occasions) but Burtonpower are a trusted source of quality parts IMHO:

https://www.burtonpower.com/product_main.aspx?dets_product.aspx?PSet=97&sTxt=compression%20strut

Yes, regardless of the compression struts I needed to modify the bulkhead slightly as lengthwise the M20 is a bit of a squeeze in a Cabrio. The link below shows the mods to the bulkhead:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/marlin_bmw_cabrio/249967741/in/set-72157594349598270/

In hindsight it may not have been strictly necessary to cut and re-weld the bulkhead and I could have probably achieved sufficient clearances with simple panel beating of the bulkhead (although it may not have been as neat a job with my limited panel bashing skills!).

If you dont fancy the idea of modifying the bulkhead, then the other option may be to try and move the radiator forward a bit.

Regards

Simon
12 Aug 2010, 10:59pm
Simon

Thanks, looks like the best bet is to source the engine first and go from there for the bulkhead mods, Burton Power looks good and reasonable for the struts.

Regards

John
13 Aug 2010, 12:06am
John & Peter,

Thanks for your responses. As I mentioned earlier, I have all the papers and know the number of my engine but wanted to be able to point to it on the block.

Funnily enough my number is located in the same position as yours, Peter, but not as shown in the BMW reference quoted by you, John. The difference is only a few inches on opposite sides of the engine mount but it just goes to show that there are differences in parts one would expect to be identical.

Re the Cabrio ARB.

When I collected my Sportster kit in the dim and distant past the ARB brackets and bushes were out of stock. After months of waiting I was told that they could no longer source these parts and anyway the ARBs were not necessary so I got a credit note. I do not intend to find my own brackets and fit the ARBs. However, with the Sportster I have the option to change my mind!
14 Aug 2010, 10:57am
Sorton wrote:
John & Peter,

Thanks for your responses. As I mentioned earlier, I have all the papers and know the number of my engine but wanted to be able to point to it on the block.


OK, I got your point now, you need to the prove its the engine you say it is. I would try gently running an old wood chisel across the surface with a little 3-in-1 oil. (Like as if you were sharpening the chisel on a stone). You should find the block comes up shinning leaving the 'crud' in the stamped numbers or as Robin suggests use some paint.

Your comment about the ARB brackets was the same as my experience with Marlin insisting it was not required on the Sportster. The latest wishbones do not have the location brackets welded on, so you can't fit one.
Which also reminds me, have you had you wishbones swapped under the recall notice issued by Marlin?
...peter
14 Aug 2010, 11:19am
I don't suppose there is anything to stop you cleaning up the area and restampting the engine number on to the block.
14 Aug 2010, 2:19pm
I know it is a fly in the ointment type suggestion but wouldn't be easier to go down the Zetec route?
14 Aug 2010, 3:04pm
Chris

Could go the Zetec route but by the time you have sourced an injection system, ecu and all the RWD mods you will be circa 3K.

The tubular plenum, ecu and mapping will be around 1k on their own, if you go throttle bodies you can double that.

Then I am back to the sort of costs I was looking at for my original choice of Rover V8.

BMW for me is the most sensible option.

John