Skip to main content

MadaboutKitcars

This is a read-only archive of the old Madabout Kitcars forum. New posts and replies are no longer possible, but every thread is still here to browse and read.

Engine conversion.

14 Nov 2008, 6:31pm
John,

Personally, I'd use OEM mounts if possible, that way provided the mounting plates are located on strong sections of the chassis you know the engine will stay firmly in place, and that replacement/upgraded mounts can be fitted with ease.

Putting the MK4 mounts on the marlin really would be easy.

John.
23 Nov 2008, 7:49pm
Marlin going the 1.8T way??

Hi John,

From the latest thread from Ken Robson it looks like Marlin are going for the audi 1.8T engine option too......

Interesting to see how this works out?

Rich

P.S> Circuit Days are running a track day at oulton park 19th Dec...really tempted on this one if weather dry!!
25 Nov 2008, 6:55am
Audi tt 225 engine's at the minute are quite rare (and expensive). Plus they will come standard with a 4 wheel gearbox, so that would need replacing.

So I went the other way. 180 BHP and beef it up! Bigger turbo (I already had re-conned for the Rover) , injectors, aftermarket ecu. These three things should make it see around 300BHP hopefully. Also exhaust manifold to fit turbo.
25 Nov 2008, 4:20pm
There's always the Leon Cupra R engine / 'box, though equally rare!

I’m curious to understand why Marlin are going 1.8t, when as far as their sponsor is concerned (a local Seat dealership I understand) the 1.8t is a bit old hat. The current performance engine is the 2litre turbo direct injection engine. Okay, the direct injection makes the choice of aftermarket ECU somewhat limited, but I’m told there is at least one standalone ECU (an MBE one) that can run the injectors.
25 Nov 2008, 4:45pm
That's 2 rocking horses in the space of 2 posts!

225 Audi TT and Cupra R engine.
5 Dec 2008, 11:38pm
We have not been idle since the last post. Far from it. Been scratching heads (me and merlinman).

We have tried the engine/box in engine bay. 6 speeder is a no go. Just too big. But a plus point has come out of the exercise. A PG1 box (1.8 K, 2.0l T series) may fit with the VW engine. This is after trying the VW 5 speed route, but at a cost.

Watch this space...
18 Dec 2008, 7:56pm
My good friend Dave Bence found a website for a company called Reyland Engineering who did exactly, that mated a PG1 to the VAG Turbo engine. Try them in google it should take you straight to their site.

Ken
18 Dec 2008, 9:15pm
Thanks for your help Ken. Will keep you all posted.
13 Feb 2009, 6:40pm
Thought I would give a little update.

Mounts are finished now. And are getting painted.

Doing a few mods to the engine and gearbox.:icon_mrgreen:

Engine sitting in engine bay.


Dry fitting of bits.


Baffled sump after painting.


And a few pictures of the gearbox.






I'm happy with the results and progress.

Next on the list.
Fit these engine bits.
Rebuild gearbox with steel cage bearings with type B diff.
Fit engine to box with Helix race clutch.
Finish ecu electrics.
14 Feb 2009, 9:43am
John

Once the installation is complete you may well find that you need to weld in the rear frame and provide additional chassis bracing. I have just had this done with mine even though I am only running a VVC as even with extra bolts in the rear frame the rear end was still flexing.

With your considerable extra power it will probably be worse than mine. Hope this helps.

Ken
14 Feb 2009, 9:49am
Hi Ken.

That is one of the things on the "to do" list once the cars on the road. Get the cross member welded in.

It's frightening how much flex there is without the rear cross member in place.
14 Feb 2009, 10:06am
Initially I put an extra 4 x 10mm bolts through the rear frame Bl**dy tight and it still flexed. I have since had the rear frame welded in with additional round tube bracing welded in diagonally using the stiffness of the roll cage to the back end.

John Dry has also welded his rear frame in and put an additional cross member in. With the power you will have going through the back end once the new engine is up an running you will almost certainly need to upgrade and do something similar.
14 Feb 2009, 11:15am
Looks like it's coming on well John,

how clean is that gearbox!!! did you aly-paint it?
14 Feb 2009, 12:53pm
I cheated Chris.

I had it shot blasted and power coated/laquered by a local place. While it's in bits, it was worth while doing.
15 Feb 2009, 7:26am
Opened up my "working" box yesterday that I had been using on the Marlin.

Found this.



Diff failure. Bearing has sheered the diff. Common on the type A diff's. Lucky I had another type B one spare in another gearbox. Which was stripped before this one.
17 Feb 2009, 6:45pm
Hi John,

Can't help but thinking that you are a free test bed for Marlin engine fit?....or are they helping you out on this one (seem to remember that a new engine would have 'free fit development' done by the factory in the sales pitch)

..anyhow, (if misses Limpabit isn't too close) what's total cost on the car now?.....just intrigued as to value vs fun vs performance vs elise....

ATB

Rich (longing for the sun to shine)
17 Feb 2009, 7:09pm
Hi Rich.

Getting no help from Marlin. Though I have not asked for any.

Ian (merlinman) has done the mounts as I have no experience with welders!

This is not a stand VW build either (Am I trying to justify the costs.:icon_cry: ). Lots of after market goodies from standard. Like a T28 turbo I had about waiting to go on the Rover engine. Know going on this.

But with that, comes baffled sump (as a safety measure, aftermarket ECU, gearbox rebuild, Rover gearbox conversion, etc ,ect.)

Not added it up accuratley at the moment but looking at th 3K mark I would have thought.

Yes at the beginning, it may have been worth getting an Elise. But with a broken car, thought I knew the car better than anyone as I built it. I could have put another Rover lump in it for a couple of hundred maybe. But decided ages ago, I was looking for a different engine, more modern.

I made the decision with the VW as this looked like a good modern alternative.
14 Mar 2009, 10:10am
John,

Looking good mate hope you get it cracked for the summer!

Craig
19 Apr 2009, 8:41pm
Ok a little update. Well quite a big one!:D

It's taken quite a bit of time, but the gearbox is now beefed up and working. main problem I had in the end was getting the gearbox shimmed (Rover don't do them anymore). But now all together and working.

A picture of the gearbox ready for the case. All steel caged bearings. Type B diff so should have better grip than the broken one above!



Custom flywheel locking tool! The bolts for the adapter plate was not the ones I ended up using. Ended up routering out a litttle and using cap head bolts to sink the bolts slightly.



Custom 6 paddle race Helix clutch.



Walbro high flow 225 PL Fuel pump in Rover case.



And engine in car. Could not use MGF mount as mounting was way off.



Next on the agenda. Complete water system, mount plumb in oil cooler, and electrics. Should not take too long. Then ready for first start.

Then lastly, charge cooler setup.
9 May 2009, 3:00pm
Well all I can say is YEEPPE!

The engine fired up for the first time today. All be it with the electrics all done temporary.

Fix numerous oil leaks along the way.

Need to do electrics permanently now and finish cooling system.

:eusa_dance: :eusa_dance: :eusa_dance:

A little video.

9 May 2009, 9:44pm
well done look forwards to seeing it on the road.. it certianly sounds the part.
:icon_cool:
10 May 2009, 7:41pm
That looks awesome, and I admire your comfidence!


I noticed you mentioned a charge cooler. I was going to start a tread about this, I wasn't sure if it had been discussed yet - the search facility on this site doesn't work very well....

What's your idea?
11 May 2009, 5:32am
Definatly chargecooler for the turbo cars.

Standard intercooler and position is useless.

Toyed with the idea of a big front mount (have pulsar intercooler already) but never fitted. Thought it would introduce lag as well as problems and looks on mounting it.

So....

Idea I have is I bought a cheap chargecooler off ebay similar to this but not at that price!

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CHARGECOOLER-WATER-TO-AIR-INTERCOOLER-220-x-250-x-115_W0QQitemZ370186079209QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item370186079209&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1683%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318%7C301%3A1%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A50

Bought this pump.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Charge-cooler-pump-water-chargecooler-turbo-charger_W0QQitemZ270370619623QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item270370619623&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1683%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318%7C301%3A0%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A50

Going to use a mocal oil cooler as the rad with plenty of antifreeze as I could not get a chargecooler rad for the dimensions and price I wanted!

And mount it at the rear bulkhead ( have plenty of space in the engine bay now.

But I know Matt on here has gone chargecooler route with the T16. PM him.
21 Jul 2009, 10:05pm
limpabit wrote:
When I drove the car round Woodbridge, the car handled ok. Springs need to be harder, but seemed ok. It seems more funny on normal roads???? But I see what you mean about power.

I intend to have it on a roading road to check these things as that is where I picked up my engine was rocking!


What weight of springs did you go with in the end?

I am looking at AVO coilovers, as i have a trade account with them. However, i dont know what weight of springs i should be going with. I want firm firm, predominantely track type ride.