MadaboutKitcars

If you're going to use the donor fuel pump & sender, the fuel tank needs a lot of modding.
I've a welder friend who did the job for me.

The height of the BMW unit is the same as the marlin tank which means that it would stick out through the boot floor.
To solve this I had a recess welded in with a sump which the pump sits in.
This had the effect of creating a swirl pot for the pump.

The sender works well with the Smiths fuel gauge I'm using, just the sender arm needs bending a bit.

Thanks Rob
I have been considering having an additional sump welded on in the centre, picking up the line of the diff.
I will investigate this further now that I know it can be done.
Regards
Mike

I think I'll move this discussion back into the 'generic' ball joint thread...



I've been looking around for some new ones as my top joints are perished and likely to fail the MOT this year.

I've seen First Line parts at £6.10 (inc VAT) which is the similar to Minispares at £6.00.
I also took a look at Rimmer Brothers. Their 'pattern' parts are £10.25 but Original Rover parts are a shocking £44.51 each!

I want some good quality ones, but not sure which to go for?
Anyone with other ideas?

Cabrio Build Manual Info



I have an old Cabrio build manual obtained from Marlin Cars a long time ago (maybe 15 years?) when I was planning to build my own car. The top ball joints are shown as "Metro top ball joint Quinton Hazell No QSJ 1060 S". Hope this helps. Peter.

Thanks, Peter. That confirms Robin's info.

My challenge now is to find a quality part replacement.
QH still seem to exist, now owned by the the Klarius group?

I wrote to Minispares to ask who made their ball joints.
They said..." we have these made ourselves " ??

I've asked Rimmer Bros the same question but I have not had a reply yet.

I never did get a reply from Rimmer Bros so decided to get a set of 'genuine' QH ball joints.

Cheapest I found was from this place....http://www.wilcodirect.co.uk/

I've stripped down one side of the front suspension and the copper shim I fitted is in perfect condition and the taper had not come loose after ~3000 miles.
I have the same problem with the new QH ball joints where the lower joints taper is travelling to far inside the BMW strut hole.
(see picture in post #20 above)

I have not checked the upper joints yet..........

Going to try these, they are marked 84 onwards:

http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?ty=pb&pid=34748&title=

These are the pre 84 ones so are wrong: http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?ty=pb&pid=34514&title=

Will see what turns up

I've not tried those ones, so it will be interesting to compare the quality and fit.
I would avoid any that are stamped with anything like BELL RN xxxxxxx on the base as from my experience these seem to be of variable quality and manufacturing tolerances.

BTW, I found you can carefully remove the rubber boot to do a trial fit of the ball joint taper in the axle to check the fit.
I'm now using QH ball joints that fit perfectly at the top but still require copper shims at the bottom.

...peter

I bought 4 genuine Quinton Hazel ball joints from this supplier early this year and was very happy.
However, last week I ordered two further QH ball joints from this supplier (this time for my Sabre).
They sent one balljoint in an open QH box, no poly bag and the locknut missing and the other was made by a company called 'Falcon Vehicle Parts' who I have never heard off.(...which Google suggests is a dissolved UK company!)

Needless to say, I can't now recommend anyone uses this supplier.

They promised me two 'mint' new replacements that arrived today.
One of them had a greasy opened bag with rust on the threads and the lock washers missing.