MadaboutKitcars

Good idea, you could stick some masking tape on to see what it does I suppose

A couple of macdonalds drink straws and blue tack, is what I had in mind!

I got my bundy tubes and 100 degree gear wheel yesterday so swapped the wheel and assembled the tubes and wheel boxes. I tested it briefly and they seem to give me the 90 degree wiper sweep that i need.



One of the wheel boxes in place. I used lashings of LM grease in the tubes, wheel boxes and inside the motor gearbox.



Here is the wiper motor mounted in place. I fixed a thick aluminium plate to the chassis. I had to move my fuse box down as I preveiously mounted it here. There is a speacial rubber mount that sits under the motor. I fixed the wheel boxes first and then drilled the holes to mount the motor.

After spending a lot of time eyeing up the location for the wipers I came to the conclusion that 90 degrees would work best for us. After looking inside the gearbox I found that we have a 110 degree drive gear (which matches the sweep measurement I took a while ago). So I ordered a 90 degree drive gear.

Wiper wheel boxes installed. I had to thin down the fibreglass on one of them as it was too thick to mount the wheel box.


The boxes are fairly in-line.


Motor mounted on a metal plate. I plan to move the hoop for the motor a little hight so the motor is held a little better. Its seem to hold fine as it is however I would feel better with it moved.



Tubes cut to length and flared, good that we had all of the tools from installing the brake pipes as they came in perfectly for this job.



All the parts ready for install. We bought some chrome tops for the wheel boxes as Marlin supplied rubber ones. I am using the rubber ones for fitting to avoid damaging the the chrome ones.



Wipers installed, still need to cut the arms to the correct length.



Tubes Installed.




Wipers in motion.


Washer jets installed.

You've made some quick progress there. (I got distracted from finishing my wipers by looking at fitting speakers for my radio whilst the dashboard is off!)

It's interesting to see that Marlin have supplied those flat unsprung wiper blades.
Did you put any locking compound on the small nuts on the back of the wheel boxes?
I noticed they are not locknuts and i'm not sure if they will stay tight?
I wonder what BL did when they built the original mini's?

.....peter

Yeah got a fair bit done, nice thing about a long weekend

I noticed that your blades look a little different to ours, the arms are sprung hopefully that will provide enough pressure for a half decent wipe.

Not put any locking compound on the small nuts. It will all be removed and reinstalled for the painting. Probably a good idea to put some on for the final install.



Also from an earlier post out blades are 10 inches long.

They used rust lol...

Seriously - They just used ordinary nuts. I never had a problem either on my Mini or on my previous Marlin that also used the same mechanism.

Robin

Thanks, Robin. Seems strange but I guess the springyness of the wheel box pressed pieces acts like a spring washer. I found an old haynes manual for a mini in my garage (can't think why because I've never owned a mini??). It doesn't show or mention any locking device either.

I took some video with my phone so its pretty cruddy quality but shows the wiper motion:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EFgrCJMd3-U

Well they seem to work OK!
An amazing bit of 50 year old technology

50 year old tech, you can't plug a computer into so I'm surprised we got it working

Did anyone list what they finally used and where it came from? I already have a motor but nothing else. It would be good to know what peeps have used and where it came from for:

Wipers boxes - teeth? spindle length? spacers?
Bundy tube -
Wiper arms -
Wiper blades -

I can see this costing an arm (hoho) and a leg if I am not careful. And I thought I had stopped spending for a while....

Robin

Ours all came from Marlin, except the replacement 90 degree drive gear which came from http://www.s-v-c.co.uk/

All came from Marlin as a kit if i remember correctly the only odd bits were the wheel boxes 2 of them were 110 degrees sweep and the one for the driver side was only 90 degrees.

Hi Robin,
I bought all the bits myself.
Wheel boxes were standard BL Mini ones. (Wheel boxes come in 32 or 40 teeth variants- not sure which ones I got but they work OK).
Try and get them with the spacers as these are expensive separately. I made my own spacers as they were so expensive, but it was an unnessasary extra chore really.
The chrome trims are also extras that add to the overall cost.
Bundy tube and motor drive gearwheel from S-V-C. They will cut and flange the bundy tube to your own dimensions. I mounted the wheel boxes and assembeled without the bundy tube to get the distances between the motor and the three wheel boxes. They have very useful instructions on their website and the guy is very helpful. He recomended a wheel stamped with 100 and it works just fine. (sold the original gear wheel on ebay and recovered about 50%)
http://www.s-v-c.co.uk/prod_wipers.html#techie

I used TEX Wiper arms and blades from Europaspares. They are good quality stainless steel.https://www.europaspares.com/WIPERS/WIPER_ARMS/UNIVERSAL_WIPER_ARMS___BAYONET_TYPE_1551.html
Arms are 5.2mm RHP - U71300
Blades are 9inch - B05109

The arms are adjustable length but I still had to cut a small piece off each one to get the right length which was easy as the arm just slides right out. You also have to put 'more angle' on the arm crank.

Finding the right position for the wheel box holes was by trial and measure. see below........
I chose the sprung mounted blades but I see Patick has the flat blade type. Both seem to work fine as the screen is flat.

It all adds up but I think I still saved a few bob over the Marlin kit price. SVC and Carbuildersolutions also do complete kits but getting the bundy tube cut and flared was worth the small extra charge.

You cut the drive shaft to length with a nice sharp cold chisel and that big effing hammer (just make sure nothing is in the way of the off-cut as it flys across your garage............)

Just found some more photo's...........

Yeah on ours we cut down the length of each arm, drilled new holes and attached with two screws. They also needed the angles fine tuning which took a vice and a lot of force, took a few goes before it was right. Also found once the springs were in it need a more fine tuning.

Thanks guys

Robin

I have a question about the wiring for the wiper motor (I am being lazy not wanting to work it out for myself)

The Lucas motor requires a +ve feed for the self parking. I assume this should just be live when none of the other feeds (1st or 2nd speed) are - is that correct?

I am using the BMW fusebox and loom. Does anyone know what this provides for the motor and whether I will have to modify anything for it to operate the Lucas motor? I seem to remember Richard saying he had to fit a relay for the parking feed.

Cheers

Robin

I just used the K10 relay in the fuse box it has all connections nessecary.
http://ogamedk.net/accessories1.jpg

Stuart

Stuart - did that also give you the self parking as well? I have worked out how it operates on the Lucas motor and I can't see how the standard BMW connections would work without the addition of a relay.

Robin

I have worked out how the wiper motor is actually wired internally.



If you use the standard Lucas switch then when you turn the wiper off, it connects the park terminal (2) to the 1st speed terminal (5). The park contact is made until it is parked and supplies power to the single speed winding. When the motor is on either 1st or 2nd speed the switch disconnects the park terminal from the 1st speed terminal.

Simple really and, I suspect, a bit different to how the BMW switch and relay works.

If i remember correctly the BMW switch and K10 relay works exactly the same way park becomes live when switch is turned off.

Thanks Stuart. That makes it easy then.

Robin

Did anyone locate a source of the connector for the Lucas wiper motor? The spades in the connector don't seem to be the standard size. I could always solder wires on I suppose but then that's a problem if it ever has to be changed.

Robin