MadaboutKitcars

Any pics Garyh?

Gary - I saw Oxford had quickly answered your question.

The only thing I would add it don't forget what is on the other side of your welding.

I've remembered to clean the metal I'm welding, but then set fire to the paint on the other side.

+1 for photos.

Good luck, Paul.

My nephew thinks it would be great just left like this... a Rat Rod.



i cut them off, looks much neater.



re-welded wishbone bracket, hope the otherside will be ok...



cut out floors and marked out where to cut. i need the gearbox back in to see where i can position bulkhed sides.

Gary - Your rolling chassis looks great and I love your wheels.

Good luck with the floors, Paul.

Thanks Paul, i will fit the trim rings and hub caps.

I want to start measuring for the internal frame but my wheels are tucked under, so doesn't show how it will sit in regards to arches... do i let it settle or do i weight it down? I have already fitted the wishbone brackets that allow you to lower car, any ideas...





or do i take some leafs out? Don't want it getting too soft.

Set the wheels where you want them to end up and fit the body around them. You can always readjust them later when the car gains weight.

From experience I'd recommend that the back wheels should be upright and effectively camber free with the vehicle unladen. Any lower and you start to get ground clearance and tyre to wheelarch fouling issues (dependent on wheel/tyre size fitted).

At the front I've ended up with the lower wishbones rising slightly towards the wheel by about an inch. With them parallel to the ground I suffered weaving at speed and with them lower I had serious ground clearance issues, which made it stressful to drive. As it is now I'm very happy with the looks, ride and handling -





Good luck, looking forward to seeing the results.

So T, shall i take a leaf or two out?

There are so many variables at play here: weight of the vehicle; weight of the occupants; condition of the spring after 40+ years; personal preference of the driver; road or track biased; etc, that there isn't really a one size fits all solution to that question.

Assuming you've already taken out the three loose leaves on top of the stack, I'd suggest you try it with all the remaining leaves in place first. If it's too firm then take one of the leaves out of the next stack down. I've taken out the one from under the leaf with the 'U' clamps that hold them all together attached. It now sits where I want it without any lowering block fitted and rides compliantly allowing higher speeds to be attained with confidence on our rough old roads.

A bit of trial and error will get you there Gary.

I was looking on another forum and noticed a car with my seats, when i bought them iwas told they were early Triumph... but are in fact Ford Pop and the covers are available approx £268.



Must order beading tool to strengthen floors/bulkhead.

Gary - I don't suppose you know a good way to strengthen the floors without a beading tool?

Whilst reading "Rods 'n' Sods" I've seen a lot of beading put into floors to stop "tin lidding" as they call it.

Obviously, I only really noticed this after I had fitted my plain "factory" floors.

Good luck, Paul.

i suppose you can add some metal plates where required? i had to get the beading now as the steel is flat, once i cut and bend flooring i won't be able to use the beader.

Your car is really starting to take shape now. Have you details of the beading you are going to use or a link as I am keen to see how effective they are.

Here you go, they are on ebay for £165 + 12.99 postage...
£150 all-in, worth a phonecall.



ROTARY METAL STEEL TOOL JENNY BEAD ROLLER

I THOUGHT THIS WAS GOOD VALUE.

Good value? I'd say! Just paid £3.99 and thought I had a bargain!

With reference to your rear wheels / camber etc. As far as I can remember, the car has to be sat on flat level ground, at it's kerb weight, and needs to be rolled back and forth several yards each way, until the rear wheels settle, and what you are left with then, is the rear wheels natural stance.

Hope this helps Gary.

One other small thing, your car will obviously be quite light, so would it not be a good idea to fit the later swing-spring, as fitted to the Spitfires?

By all accounts, this improves the handling no end.

I am lucky in this respect, as my 42 year old donar Spit came with one already fitted.

hi Scottie, i thought that the Rotoflex suspension was the final evolution which had sorted the tucking under problem?

Spitfires never ever had that Gary, it was the GT 6's and Vitess's as far as I know.

The Spitties had the swing spring which, is still recommended today
for better handling.

Gary - Good luck with the bead rolling, please post some photos of how it all works.

Cheers, Paul.

That must be why they don't do one... don't need it?

Question about UJ's, if i can't get the circlip sitting properly because the cap won't go in any further, do i file down the end of the cap a fraction?
Ta.

Not really, they are made to a tolerance and should go together without that. The yolks should be cleaned up with emery tape to remove any rust, corrosion etc. prior to reassembly. Make sure there is no crap in the cap or that a roller has dislodged. You could try the circlip in the groove before assembly to make sure it fits properly into the groove. Gentle pressure in the vice and they should go together. No extreme force required. Hope this of some help.

I was just thinking that if anybody was doing a more modern version of these cars, they could use Chrysler PT Cruiser lights judging by how the wing curves?

You might need to let it buffer first... maybe I need to keep vids to a minute.

after my recent aluminium panel fest I've been looking at one of these, limited on length but looks like a handy tool, ok its just over double the money but it does do 3 jobs?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221491246070?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649

Mac