MadaboutKitcars

I believe I have an LSD - going by the tag on the diff case. S and then the diff ratio.

Maybe I just need a track day so I can explore the limits.

My 40th birthday present has been fitted - All my mates chipped in to get me a dateless number plate for Vikki. The paperwork arrived yesterday, so I nipped out this morning and got some new plates made up and fitted them:





I always new Vikki was a sassy little minx. Now it's official.

I'm going to get some *cough cough* 'Show Plates' made up in pressed black and silver, and see how I go. If the chap with the brand new Range Rover Evoque down the street can get away with it, I'm sure I can with a car that looks way past pre '72.

I was thinking of changing my name to G854UAM to match the car.

If you lift the back up and spin the wheel, check which direction the other side goes: Same = LSD, opposite = Open.

I've looked on and off for re-build kits (new pads) not found anything off the peg. IIRC LSD's will lock (25% lock on these) for a total of around 10mins in there life so ours are probs getting on a bit!

The dateless plate is awesome, something that's been on my wish list for a while now

Clutches and shims:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-LSD-CLUTCH-DISC-SERVICE-KIT-188mm-/150821695371?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item231dac6f8b#ht_500wt_922

Rebuild info

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1348666

Might be a project over the winter.

Hi Jason. I also "lost it" in my Cabrio soon after I had it. Also on diesel spilled on a wet roundabout, but luckily at about 20 MPH with an empty "on slip" to end up in
It took me a while to believe in the inherently good roadholding of these cars so I used to creep around corners when I first had it. All that changed after a track day organised by Marlin at Landow in S Wales I can thoroughly recommend that as a way to find the car's (and your) limits. I am running on Toyo Proxes T1R 205/55R16s at 20psi all round. These are really grippy and excellent in the wet.

However don't forget the golden rule of not going around a corner faster than a speed in which you can see is safe to stop if required! Peter.

Nice! That wasn't about last time I looked

I go away for a long weekend up to the Lakes, enjoy fabulous weather, and come home to this.......a poke in the ribs!.......and I thought you seemed such a nice bloke at Stoneleigh!
I think it calls for pistols at dawn sir- or at least a Traffic light drag race when we get together!

" End up with a Cabrio" indeed!

I sent an email to the chap who had the eBay auction for the diff parts, to see how much they are without having to fight through the bidding process.



The reply was pleasantly surprising:



Not very expensive at all - just need to find a source for the other bits - seals, gaskets & bearings.

I wonder if the 40% kit is worth considering for normal road use

Ooppps, I thought it might get a reaction, should have added a few smileys, but I will go for the drag race at dawn.

I am not all bad

Dunno I think my sarcas-o-meter's needle broke

Looks like we might need another of GOO's finds : the limited slip diff
I shall definitely have to get my rear diff support strengthened

Oh, not my find. Patrick had one first. I lucked out as my donor had one fitted.

Here's what I think is a comprehensive list of the parts required to refurb a medium sized diff (188mm):

Input shaft / Flange:

Diag. #	Description	        Part #	         Qty

2	Dustcover plate	        33*12*1*200*284	 1

3	Securing plate	        23*21*1*490*120	 1

5	Shaft seal	        33*10*1*214*099	 1

6	Tapered roller bearing	33*12*1*203*615	 1

7	Tapered roller bearing	33*12*1*203*616	 1

8	Clamping bush	        33*12*1*744*368	 1

Output shaft / Flange:

Diag. #	Description	        Part #	         Qty

2	Dustcover plate, large	33*13*1*208*006	 2

3	Shaft seal & lock ring	33*10*7*505*602	 2

5	Tapered roller bearing	33*13*1*213*893	 2

8	O-ring	                33*11*1*214*144	 2

Rear cover:

Diag. #	Description	        Part #	         Qty

3	Gasket Asbestos Free	33*11*1*210*405	 1

6	Gasket ring	        07*11*9*963*355	 2

9	O-ring	                33*11*1*206*166	 1

I haven't included things like the spacers or 'housings', as you'll reuse the ones you have. Ditto on the input & output flanges and the nut on the input.

Just need to see how much that lot comes to. :/

Output/Input shaft seals on ebay......

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-E30-E36-Differential-Diff-Oil-Seal-Ring-Output-Shaft-33107505602-/110902647910?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item19d2501c66#ht_3585wt_952

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-Seal-Ring-Diff-Shaft-Input-3-5-6-7-E30-E36-E46-E60-E34-E65-X3-X5-Z3-Z4-/120901342244?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1c26481424#ht_1460wt_952

Eee, but it's lovely out there. Just been out for a 3 hour meander through Northamptonshire via the back roads, with a stop off for tea. Smashing! 8D

for the longest time, i've been chasing down a high idle problem on Vikki - pretty much from the moment she's been road legal.

I've looked at all the intake and vac hoses, repeatedly checked the throttle position switch and the idle control valve.

I recently undertook a full electrical check on all the lines from the ECU to the various sensors, which where fine... But then I stumbled across what is more than likely the issue - the ECU is not sending the correct voltages to the idle control valve! :/

I'm just managed to get a new one off the sale boards on E30Zone, so I should be able to see if my hypothesis is correct.

Whilst I was at it buyingg stuff from the zone, I also managed to get a whole motronic 1.3 conversion 'kit' comprising of sensors, ancillaries, ECU, injectors & wiring harness. So once I've cleaned it all up, I'll have an early high compression engine with late engine control - NICE.

Some of you may have noticed that some funny flaws have developed in the paintwork on vikkis driver side wings - I popped them of and took the to Normandale for a diagnosis, as the paint seems ok.

According to them, it's the gel coat under the paint that has cracked. The fiberglass is fine, but the gel is so brittle.

They're sorting it out for me, but it might be worth anyone who has had their car painted yet having the gel off where the bodywork can flex, and have it replaced with filler. That's what they're going to do with the wings.

I can only assume that the other wings haven't gone like it as they must either not flex as much, or the gel is a better quality on that side.

In other news, the replacement ECU arrived, and bugger me its doing exactly the same thing with this one as the original ECU. sits at 1000 rpm regardless of temp.

I've swapped out the blue temp sensor, checked for continuity on all the relevant cables running back to the ECU and checked all the hoses for leaks. Everything is ok, and in spec. So I'm stumped now... :/

idle

After a long saga, I found my incorrect/low voltage fault from ecu was due to alternator contact being intermittent...and thus icv and tps were reading low voltagefrom ecu fault...have you checked the charging status from this?

Well, it certainly appears to be charging... When the engine is running, my voltmeter on the dash shows 13 to 14v, and when off (with ign on) its a solid 12v from the battery. I'll check it out today though.

Stupid question I know - but have you checked the accuracy of the rev counter?

Robin

Yes - it agrees with my multimeter that has a rev counter setting.

Woe is me:

http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=225851

Should have left he bloody thing idling at 1000rpm - now it's up and down like a lady of negotiable affection's under clothes...

Jason,
have engine bits coming out of my ears (well in a box anyway). I have one engine in bits and one runner in my second donor. I know I am a way from you but if you want to borrow anything feel free...
John

Jason - did you replace the idle valve somewhere along the line? I have a spare one if you want to try it.

Robin