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Thanks again everyone.
I had a go at the rear window trims but will be having a word with a guy who's done some before to see if he'll do it for. It's bound to be cheaper than having to replace the rubber I'm bound to rip and redo the paint I'm certain to scratch.
Outside now just needs the sill trims then it's get on with the interior and boot trimming.
Outside may get period race stickers later, I'll see what I think when I've lived with it.
Also need to sort some some of rubber round the windscreen and possibly a sun strip as the top of the glass accidentally got sanded/scratched.
The exhaust will be done in stainless before Stoneleigh.
Morning Bob , car looks spot on and those wheels really finish it off , dont suppose you know of anybody who would want to buy a set of genuine Minilites with the correctly rated tyres suitable for a Z3 or an E Type Jag! Geoff .
Thanks Geoff,
I think your wheels look great but if you did want a change, I'm sure someone on here who's planning/building a Z3 based kit would want them.
ANDY--
Here's a couple of pictures of the bonnet mesh for you. Also one with the bonnet up to show that I'm not much into fancy paint and chrome under there as I tend to leave it closed at events.
Today I'm starting on the door trims, but only until lunch as this afternoon is ice cream eating at the seaside.
Better get back to it, I only came in to check on Nubodi's thread to make sure I don't miss anything obvious.
Made the wooden bases for the door panels. The top doesn't line up from the door to the window frame as it got nearer the front so I made a wooden spacer which is fitted to the back.
The van lining material is just the padding as I had plenty but didn't have any foam. Diamond pattern vinyl I bought a while ago will go on later. The handles are auto jumble stock and the chrome strip is from a scrap XJS Jaguar door trim.
I've also started on the rear parcel shelf. It's a boot carpet from something or other. It's thick so is being used a a base to cover the many lumps and bumps in a Z3.
As usual, lots of started jobs. If they go well and I reach a good point to stop, I do something else. That way I always look forward to getting back out there again. Odd way of doing things perhaps, but it works for me.
Born and bred in Hadleigh! There are a lot of these specialist shops round Essex that you never hear about - I didn't know about one on Canvey. The guy who's doing my mouth and bumpers is in Hawkwell and has built some amazing stuff - this is restoration he did on a DB2
Bumpers, very interesting. Are they going to be 1/4 or full bumpers?
I have someone who can chrome plate GRP, he could probably do the 1/4 bumpers but not a full bumper as they have to go into a vacuum chamber.
What's the chance of taking a mold before they are fitted? Would save me having to follow you everywhere until you parked up in Sainsburys
The car is at the workshop today as the drivers side now won't lock/unlock from inside or outside. Once Mike's sorted that, he'll put some sort of emergency release in in case it happens again.
I had a little time today so decided to make surrounds for the inner door handles. A cut out some scrap alloy plate and thought I'd add the badges as there's only one Italia badge on the grille, so not too much to spoil the simple appearance.
Just need to drill some mounting holes for the plate and vinyl the door trims and it's another job ticked off.
What are the catches on top of the sills ? they look like they locate the bonnet as it comes down ? if so any chance of a close up please ?
Also would be very interested in what you are going to do regarding a way of opening the door if the blip fails, or central locking fails.
This is a head scratcher for me as my blip does not work, the central locking works but only on the key, Chris tells me the mini door handles do not, or are not able to work the BMW locking mechanism.
I was thinking either a thin cycle inner cable attached to the door handle mechanism and threaded through the door edge along with the door wiring ending in the front wheel splash panel with a loop in the end to pull.
Or option 2, the same idea but with electrical wiring spliced into the solenoid, again ending in the front wheel well splash panel. In case of flat battery or central locking failure you just attach power to the positive and earth to operated the solenoid. Wire up both doors as a belt and braces approach.
I have used a VW type 2 Camper choke cable in the past as a backup door release ...exactly as Jagtvr says in the front wheel arch ..the Campers have a nice long cable which was all we could find years ago , but lots of vehicles have cable boot release fitted now , so other scrapyard options are available.
Please do so. No big hurry, thanks!
Really liking your car, been following since the beginning.
Wish we could get it here in the USA.
Hi, I've been trying to get more details from the paint supplier about the colour mix. I took a while for them to say they would let us have the formula as it was going abroad, but when they found out you were in the USA they said there was no point as the type of paint they use is illegal where you are.
Oh well, we tried.
Hope you find something similar as I'm very pleased with it and all who've seen the car say it looks right on the period of car.
What are the catches on top of the sills ? they look like they locate the bonnet as it comes down ? if so any chance of a close up please ?
Also would be very interested in what you are going to do regarding a way of opening the door if the blip fails, or central locking fails.
This is a head scratcher for me as my blip does not work, the central locking works but only on the key, Chris tells me the mini door handles do not, or are not able to work the BMW locking mechanism.
Jeff.
This is for the E46 which I would presume is the same procedure as the Z3
Get into your BMW, shut the door and put your key in the ignition. Turn the key between the on and off positions five times as quickly.
Push the "Unlock" button on your E46 key and hold it down while pushing the lock button three times. At this time your BMW's door locks will lock and unlock, which signals that you've successfully completed the programming process.
Finish programming your E46 key remote by turning your BMW on and off.
Again I'm not sure about the Z3 but the E46 key has a rechargeable battery, it is recharged when it is in the ignition and the car is running. If the car hasn't been used much the key will need to be recharged first. One of mine was flat and I just let it in the ignition for 20 minutes with the car running and I was able to reprogram it.
Out of all the Z3's we have come across, probably 50% the remote central locking do not work off of the original remotes. This is definitely a weak spot on these cars.
The receiver for the alarm signal, believe it or not is in the rear view mirror. If you have replaced this you need to take the mirror apart and get the circuit board out with the pick up aerial on. Then reconnect this to the loom in the plastics above the mirror. It will just fit in behind with a push.
The problem we think is the circuit board in the remote fails due to general wear and tear. These are rare new and will need expensive reprogramming. What we do is get our local Auto locksmith in (£30) and he fits a universal remote system (ebay £10 with 2 remotes). Job done. Its the quickest and easiest way and we can concentrate on the build.
You can get the mini handles to lock but you need a set of secondhand ones with the complete mechanism. When you buy them new the important bit is generally missing. This is a sliding mechanism which needs to be cut down to fit into the hole for the handle. When the key lock is in the unlocked position the button goes in to open the Z3 mechanism. When you lock it with the key the slider comes down and does not allow the button to go in, effectively locking the door.
Thanks Geoff,
ANDY--
Here's a couple of pictures of the bonnet mesh for you. Also one with the bonnet up to show that I'm not much into fancy paint and chrome under there as I tend to leave it closed at events.