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I've cut a 3mm thick blank of aluminium the same shape as the mirror that was in the casing, and riveted a L shaped extrusion through a slot I cut in the plate. for the phone to sit on.
The plate is held in via an M4 screw from the pack of the casing, and 8 holes have been drilled (4 each side, 2 front, 2 back) for some 3mm black elasticated cord I've got.
The front face and the top of the shelf will get some of that grippy rubber stuff they sell for phones on your dashboard. All the exposed edges not covered in rubber have been polished, as has the M6 coach bolt that's had it's head ground to an appropriate diameter. I reused one of the black plastic knobs that used to be on the windscreen to tighten it up, as it'll be easier to get off the windscreen rod when I'm not using it.
By happy coincidence, if the phone is the right way up, the camera lens clears the top of the casing. On the move videos!
The iPhone mount won't be attached to the screen all the time... Only when I need it for stuff like the navigation app. The rest of the time the phone will be in my pocket.
Today I have mostly been mounting the new heater valve, recovering the centre console and mounting the new switch plate:
I think it looks spiffing. Of course, you can't bloody well see the Marlin logo when you're sat behind the wheel due to the line of the dash... Ooops.
The starter button works great. I've modified the ignition switch so that it's no longer spring loaded, and won't advance to the start position - it just rotates from off to aux to run. To start her now, I put the key in the ignition (which still works the steering lock), rotate it round to start and then press the loud button.
Spiffing is the word, but I bet you any money one day you will get in the car to start it and turn the key and wonder why it does not start............then you remember the start button.
I have the same arrangement and still forget occasionally because your everyday runaround starts on the key.
Thinking about it a lot of new cars are like that now though.
The back plate looks spot on. A very nice finishing touch.
I am interested why you have decided to retrofit a water valve. I thought about this, but you and Patrick had not bothered so I thought it was not necessary - now you have decided to retro fit one!! Why?
Do you get too hot in summer from heat escaping from the internal radiator?
Mike
GreatOldOne wrote:
Today I have mostly been mounting the new heater valve, recovering the centre console and mounting the new switch plate:
I think it looks spiffing. Of course, you can't bloody well see the Marlin logo when you're sat behind the wheel due to the line of the dash... Ooops.
The starter button works great. I've modified the ignition switch so that it's no longer spring loaded, and won't advance to the start position - it just rotates from off to aux to run. To start her now, I put the key in the ignition (which still works the steering lock), rotate it round to start and then press the loud button.
Mike - I always had a valve, but it was cable operated with a slider, and not very good. I don't think it ever fully opened or closed, and the control cable was a pain in the ass to fit or remove if you wanted to take out the console.
This one is a direct action one, so I know when it off or fully on, and all I need do is remove the knob if I want to take the console out now.
As I state at the end of this entry, I have now posted up the low fuel program for the arduino based fuel lights, along with spreadsheets to allow you to calculate your own tank and gauge maps if you want to make your own.
Just a little tip is to mark up the panels that you want painted and finished both sides. Whilst my painter did an excellent job and he saw the car fully assembled on a couple of occasions, by the time he got the pile of panels he had forgotten what it looked like! (not surprising really)
You'll want all your bonnet panels painted both sides, doors painted inside and out, inside edges of the rear tub, etc.
And this little piece shows a bit on the inside if not painted both sides.