MadaboutKitcars

I would use more csm and take it a lot further out to spread the load. A large bonnet like yours will act as a lever, just a strong gust of wind when in the upright position could cause cracks or failure. I would introduce some metal rod to stop any flexing.

Thanks for the input I can still add some bracing rods by welding them to the bottom square bar if required more work again doh! You are right though just ignore my winging cheers. deggsy

Sorry, I meant embed some metal rod in the GRP and spread the GRP further out to try and stiffen the area to prevent it cracking at a later date.

The Sammio way was to bond and 'glass a steel hoop into the oval 'mouth'.

The brackets are welded to the hoop and on mine the chip cutter grille, which is very heavy, is also bolted to the brackets. It makes for a very strong, integrated bonnet bracket that hasn't caused me the slightest problem in four years on the road -













Maybe something similar could work on the A352 grille opening?

Thanks for the info my setup is similar except the steel hoop is bonded into the bonnet it should work ok? but I can reinforce it if required.

I bought a pair of long driveshaft's yesterday on eBay they are off a gt6 and will need a lot of work i.e. cleaning and the flanges are the too big and I will have to source longer tie rods but with the spacers they should bring the rear wheels out just right? When I get round to installing them I can take the top leaf out of the swing spring as well.

After weeks of sanding the headlamp mounts well ok it was days or hours over lots of days I finally got them fitted, you can't see it in the photos but they look a bit squint I'm not cutting them back off after all my hard work so a bit of packing out will be required to align the headlamps.


It wont be seen so will be ok.
Now for the disaster as I have been unable to get the engine running smoothly
I borrowed my compression tester back of a friend of mine (he's had it for years) did a test and yuk piston one 100lbs two 106lbs three 130lbs four 140lbs did a wet test and they were all over 200 so ring or worn bores, so if you'll excuse me I'm going to have a good scream in the corner.

Yahoo I finally got the engine running smoothly there was a problem with the linkages on the weber the secondary barrel was opening first and the primary just a little bit I reversed the setup now she's running fine even with pistons 1&2 being down a bit on pressure. result yes

I have just finished making the bonnet prop it is made up of nine pieces not counting the bolts & nuts I could have made it simpler but this one has quite a bit of adjustment if required.

The reinforcing bar is 1m x25mm x4mm which is bonded in with glass paste then three layers of woven glass tape I might add more glass matting later (I ran out) for extra strength.

Looks good Degsy, as long as it works that's okay!

Don't leave the bonnet up for long periods in the wind though!!!

I wouldn't do that myself even with my piddly little bonnet. :-)

Yep it works fine it even locks in place, but leaving it up in the wind could be a disaster. :-)

Deggsy Great progress on the bonnet.

Hope you are able to sort out the engine.

Good luck, Paul.

Paul
I'm sure I'll get there evenyually
Today I started on the inner front wings the first part (fibre glass trailer wing) this is bonded in place and will be built up to the correct profile I hope

wheel arches

The inner wheel arches are pretty much done now since this photo was taken I have reinforced the supports with glass matting and there will be removable mud guard type thingy's to protect the inner headlamps unfortunately work will slowdown a bit more over the next few weeks cos I've got get my seven ready for summer! this happens every April as she's only on the road for 6 months a year.

I have managed to get some time in on the A352 I tidied up the wiring in the boot and now have the option of reversing, rear and front fog lights I don't know if I'll fit them yet as not required by law and may not look authentic.
I have also taken off the engine bay panels to get at the suspension to lower the front springs, a bit fiddly as it is trial and error to get it right,

cut out 1 coil flatten it down grind a flat seat re fit lower the car check1 probably wrong so start all over doh again
so if you cut 1 coil off and it lowers the spring say 1" when extended how much is it lowered when compressed?
Also anyone know if the prop shaft flange is the same size on both the early and the later Diffs? I know the drive shaft flanges are different but what about the prop?????

These are the springs with another coil removed bent and ground flat.

It didn't go well fitted it all up lowered the car ant the suspension went all the way down to the bump stops. Doh I think there is sommit wrong with my calculations.
ho well back to the drawing board??????

Fixed it

The front suspension is sorted now with a couple of 7/8" spacers from those nice people at Moss. It's still a little bit higher than I wanted but it should look ok once the wheel spacers are added (fill the wheel arches better)I hope

Then it's back to the rear end which should be quite interesting? As I intend to fit spitfire long drive shafts which will mean a lot of mods.
Watch this space.

Glad to hear you have fixed the front end and good luck with the rear, Paul.

Thanks Paul I think I'll need it!

I started work on the long drive shafts a few days ago.
Getting it all ready for strip down

Hubs off cleaned and checked the shafts are only just usable why would you have the needle roller bearings running directly on the shaft however designed that should have been sacked?

Waiting for the bearings to arrive now. Of course once it's all assembled and installed I have to make some new radius arms as they never fitted the long shafts to the herald

The long driveshaft's are still an on-going issue I've had to send for a 5/8 unf die to repair the threads,
in the mean time I fitted the spacers to the front wheels and they look much better now.

sorry about the rubbish photo not enough room in the garage.
this of course caused it's own problem the tyres were now catching on the lower wheel arch these were cut back and a new lip made with glass paste.



\I find this shooooo much easier than fafing about with matting, resin, and hardener.
I suspect now that I've moved the wheels out a bit I can take a bit of the steering lock out hmmmm

Spooky!

I've just repaired a small section of wheel arch the same way.

Keep chipping away at it, good luck, Paul.

I tried to turn the car around yesterday to state work on the rear drive shafts but the blinking thing wouldn't start again? after hours of playing with it I concluded it was a fuse box bad connection I had no indicators fuel gauge or ignition unless I pressed on the fuses so I spent all my free time today wiring in a new one very fiddly when you can't gat at the wires properly. With the new one wired in the car eventually started I just have to tidy up the wiring and decide where to locate it when I have five.

Deggsy - I know that useless Spitfire fuse box feeling all too well.

It is just a shame I had ripped the wiring loom for the front lights to pieces trying to find the fault before I fitted this.



Although making a nice alloy cover to protect the fuses is still on my 'To Do' list.

Good luck, Paul.

I've spent a few hours trying to re-setup the front suspension and steering It's getting closer the camber is now 5% neg (should be 1%) and the wheels are just touching the chassis on full lock so a bit more to do yet!
but whilst I had the opportunity I decided to turn the car around to have a go at the back end and have a photo shoot for the DVLA and you lot of course.




as you can see the back wheels are a bit lost in the arches even with the wheel spacers on I am hoping the longer spitfire shafts will help but it eill be an awful lot of work for an extra 25mm ouch