MadaboutKitcars

http://youtu.be/BVVqz8ajMK4

1iTim - Great to see the video clip of your car rolling out of the garage.

Good luck, Paul.

Well its been a while. A couple of moves, job stress lowering a little I'm planning on some more work on the car soon. Likely to do more updates in U-tube. nice to see your cars too.

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=UUwbvitYUS6I753gQHIfb-mg&persist_app=1&app=desktop&client=mv-google&gl=US&hl=en

car has hydraulics and all now. I cranked it over last weekend with my supercapacitor bank, monday will see it fuelled and actually started and driven down the driveway, God willing.

all the best,
Tim

Have you got a photo of your supercapacitor bank ? How long can you crank the engine on a single charge ?

i have a string of technically 83 Farrad total (6x300F/2.7V in series) but several internet electric people have got a tested 50-60 farrad output on this string.

I tested the circuit on free modeling software and it pulls about 300A from zero V, so i bought a 120a breaker that i have in series with the tiny Li battery i have. It cranks over for 3 -4 seconds taking the voltage from 13.5 down to 10. then the capacitors charge from the battery in seconds (30 or so) for another go. Since my 948 cc is still running its generator not an alternator it could still be hand cranked, so i think the power is adequate. I've just stuffed something up and it wont spark at the moment. I only have videos and have not yet posted the unsuccessful cranking vid. the rapid charge from low voltage is also taxing the capacitors over-voltage circuitry and i may have difficulty there. (i also anticipate problems running at night)

The best bit is that the caps and Li battery weigh in at less than a kilo.

photos

attempting upload of photos as photobucket is not working for me anymore.
Tim

Tim - Whilst you appear to have less room to work in than I had, at least you’ve got a roof!



Hope ‘life’ settles down and you get to spend a bit more time on the car.

Good luck, Paul.

[/B]

Hi Tim,

Can I just check please, you are using 300 lb springs? Are they going to be a bit stiff considering the car will be much lighter than Herald?

Thank you.

Ditto the above. I started with Vitesse 230lb front springs (car weighed 680kg with straight six up front) and couldn't go above 50mph without the front wheels bouncing off the road surface. A switch to Spitfire 180lb springs on Gaz ride/height adjustable shocks set to the second softest 'click' resulted in the front wheels staying in contact with the road and made for a much faster car in the real world.

330lb springs might give you an edge on the race track, but they might just leave you in a hedge on the road...

Thanks for chipping in Mr.T, much appreciated. I hope Tim won't mind if I use his thread to ask you where did you buy 180lb Triumph springs please? I've had a look on Rimmers page, but their Spitfire uprated springs were rated at 200lb? Would it be a big difference between 180lb and 200lb (I have posted this previously, but just as a reminder, I am not using original bulkhead and my engine is 4 pot, Spitfire 1500, so my car will be possibly a bit lighter than yours)?

Thank you.

Hi Deni, 180lb/in are quoted as 'standard' front springs for the Spitfire 1500, and were selected to work in combination with a rear swing spring and 7/8" front anti-roll bar.

I found them to give the best ride and handling compromise on my Spyder, even though I had a fixed rear spring, albeit with four leaves removed to soften the back end sufficiently given the much reduced weight over my Vitesse donor.

Their part number is usually either TKC1881, TKC1884 or GSV1030, and their 'weight' spec tends to vary with supplier - Rimmers say 167lb/in for the GSV1030 while other sellers say 180lb/in for the same part number. As you say, Rimmers also have their GSV1030UR, which is shorter and rated at 200lb/in, and if you like a firm ride and the roads you're going to drive on are really smooth then you could give them a go. Oh, and if you use standard length springs you'll definitely need to fit height adjustable shocks or the nose will sit far too high.

Anyway, here are some links to the '180lb' springs, and a useful website regarding setting up a small-chassis Triumph for the best handling. Just bear in mind that your car will be much lighter so you'll have to see what works best through trial and error.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-SPITFIRE-1-1500-FRONT-SUSPENSION-COIL-SPRINGS-x-2-GSV1030-TKC1884/283486803381?epid=1623070893&hash=item42012155b5:g:ra4AAOSw7NNT2koF

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GSV1030

http://auskellian.com/paul/links_files/performance_enhancements.htm#front

Best of luck getting your car set up.

Thanks Mr.T, that makes sense now. I assumed that you had bought the uprated springs... Thanks for the links too, it is much appreciated.

Hi all, I seem to remember 170lb? I think I asked the makers to match the rate of the advertised “uprated” spring rate.

Ok re reading that, maybe I did go 300 and might need to change... but they weren’t that expensive but needed to be much shorter than standard.

So the work recently has been aluminium bulkhead and stuff:
[img] http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=6940&d=1593326055[/img]
[img] http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=6941&d=1593326055[/img]
[img] http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=6942&d=1593326055[/img]

Now the bulkhead is in, I can put the regulator and wiring loom in.

Lucas electrical...

Hi all,
It’s all wired up (dodgily and with no dashboard in place, and front/mid loom only, not rear or headlight loom yet) and starts fine now. However, the ignition light that should go out when the revs come up actually gets brighter with more revs. So the dynamo is working, but with no regulation.

That’s bizarre. I did ‘flash’ the dynamo, it’s positive earth like it was originally. Have I done something wrong? Has something busted? It worked ok before tear down which was admittedly many years ago...

Tim

It sounds like your ignition light wire might be shorting out somewhere along its length.

Try disconnecting the wire at the generator and see if the light still comes on when you switch the ignition on. If it comes on it's shorting somewhere. I'm not certain that will work with a positive earth system but it should't cause any damage if you try it.

Some useful info here - https://www.howacarworks.com/ignition-system/troubleshooting-the-ignition-warning-light

Found it and fixed it. I had extended a wire to reach the ignition solenoid but had not insulated it and it was earthing. Thanks mr T.

Glad I could help

Drivable!

Hi all, another update, most records are video now and available publicly on u tube. You all can hear it starting on the supercapacitor/lithium ion setup that i have on it. Several start attempts one after the other and no dramas.

I drove it to the end of my driveway which was a very exciting 10m (m for meters not miles) drive! heres a picture of it at the top of the drive.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CDSVxo-Hzc-/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link



now to do passenger seat, front and rear wiring, oh, and get a mod- certifying engineer to review before I bond the body on...

stay safe, madabouters.
T

Good work, exhaust has a nice burble to it - that should grab the neighbours attention! (sorry for the bad TV reference).

thanks Mr T. Already I've had a 20 min conversation with a passer-by and it's not even on the road yet! Good thing its one of my favourite subjects...

for those wondering, search Tim Hocking on youtube for me if you like. you'll know when you have the right Tim.

Goodnight and have a good weekend, all.

Best,
Tim

trial dash

hi i have the trial dash mocked up. a question, whats the thing i've circled? it comes out the back of the Jaeger speedo, doesnt press (the flex tube does not allow it) but it turns both ways on a tiny 1/16 or something drive. it does not appear to do anything.

also, the instrument lights only come on when the lights are in high beam. is that usual or is there another short or do i actually need to wire the headlights in to see this? I've ordered some extra connectors for ground for the blinkers etc.

enjoy!

On my Spitfire dash, that 'twisty' knob is to reset the trip mileage.



Although it twists both ways, only one direction moves the trip numbers.

Good luck, Paul.

[QUOTE=Paul L;104877]On my Spitfire dash, that 'twisty' knob is to reset the trip mileage.


Although it twists both ways, only one direction moves the trip numbers.


Thanks paul - which way, and how far to twist until it resets the numbers?
T