Yes, well done, the car is looking brilliant!
Peter
10 Sep 2007, 9:43pm
Build progress
11 Sep 2007, 7:21am
Car is looking great Patrick! Do you have a date for the SVA yet?
BTW what are you doing about the steering wheel? There seems to be two schools of thought.
1. Use the original BMW wheel as it is - original, as designed.
2. Use an aftermarket wheel with a collapsible hub. Problem here is you aren't allowed any slots or sharp edges. Most aftermarket wheels I have seen seem to have plenty of both!
Cheers
Robin
BTW what are you doing about the steering wheel? There seems to be two schools of thought.
1. Use the original BMW wheel as it is - original, as designed.
2. Use an aftermarket wheel with a collapsible hub. Problem here is you aren't allowed any slots or sharp edges. Most aftermarket wheels I have seen seem to have plenty of both!
Cheers
Robin
11 Sep 2007, 7:31am
We don't have a date yet, steering wheel going to leave the momo one on with the collapsible boss. However I will stick the stock wheel in the "support car" along with a load of tools.
11 Sep 2007, 8:13pm
Patrick if you are leaving the momo wheel on then you will need to cover the sharp edges as they will fail if not. If you replace wheel with original then you run the risk of being pulled up over the angle of difference in the shafts not being large enough.
Stuart
Stuart
13 Sep 2007, 5:40pm
Was doing a bit of testing of things in the garage and both the horns from the E30 have spontaneously combusted, doh. Getting a steady 12V from the wiring so its not fuse or relay related.
Going to order these ones from CBS:
http://www.nfauto.co.uk/horns.htm
Bottom ones, looks very similar to the E30 ones.
Going to order these ones from CBS:
http://www.nfauto.co.uk/horns.htm
Bottom ones, looks very similar to the E30 ones.
14 Sep 2007, 7:12am
Was doing a bit of testing of things in the garage and both the horns from the E30 have spontaneously combusted, doh. Getting a steady 12V from the wiring so its not fuse or relay related.
Horns normally work by having a permanent 12v supply and then grounding them to work. I am not sure if this is the case with BMW - but if it was the 12v would always be there and it would be the ground (earth) side that is causing the problem.
Robin
14 Sep 2007, 7:21am
The earth would seem to be OK as the reading was taken directly at the plug, but will double check tonight as you never know with these things! 
(EDIT, Richard tells me BMW = only live when needed, horns always earthed - well the button on the wheel works by connecting earth but that switchs a relay which runs through a fused circuit that switchs power in and out)
(EDIT, Richard tells me BMW = only live when needed, horns always earthed - well the button on the wheel works by connecting earth but that switchs a relay which runs through a fused circuit that switchs power in and out)
14 Sep 2007, 7:51pm
Got a letter today from VOSA asking for copies of receipts of the kit and evidence that it's been built by us! I should think copied of the Marlin receipts and some of the other bits will suffice!
I'm sure the build site will be more evidence than they normally get
I'm sure the build site will be more evidence than they normally get
15 Sep 2007, 10:08pm
Small update:
Been trying to bleed the coolant in the engine but nothing has been coming out the hole! So took the thermostat housing cover off. There was a big build up of deposits in there. The engine block itself the other side of the thermostat looked fine. So I'm guessing running mostly on idle with the stat closed has caused it. Anyway the stat is fine, tested it in boiling water.
Cleaned up the housing cover, ran some coolant flush through the system for 10mins, drained it then filled up with 25% antifreeze 75% distilled water.
Also set the speedo, big thanks to Stuart for the guide
- Click me
Also did a first pass of the car with with the SVA manual. As previous mentioned the indicators at the front are in the wrong place to pass. Also the main headlights are slightly too low so the front suspension needs to be wound up a bit.
I am a bit worried about the angle of the rear lights, but others have passed with these so I'm going to wait and see what happens.
The only other problem that may still crop up its the edge radius test on the exhaust pipes. Not sure if the 30 degree cone test will be effected by the bar we've put on the back.
Didn't get to the indicators, but some good ideas from Peter will be tried tomorrow.
Been trying to bleed the coolant in the engine but nothing has been coming out the hole! So took the thermostat housing cover off. There was a big build up of deposits in there. The engine block itself the other side of the thermostat looked fine. So I'm guessing running mostly on idle with the stat closed has caused it. Anyway the stat is fine, tested it in boiling water.
Cleaned up the housing cover, ran some coolant flush through the system for 10mins, drained it then filled up with 25% antifreeze 75% distilled water.
Also set the speedo, big thanks to Stuart for the guide
- Click meAlso did a first pass of the car with with the SVA manual. As previous mentioned the indicators at the front are in the wrong place to pass. Also the main headlights are slightly too low so the front suspension needs to be wound up a bit.
I am a bit worried about the angle of the rear lights, but others have passed with these so I'm going to wait and see what happens.
The only other problem that may still crop up its the edge radius test on the exhaust pipes. Not sure if the 30 degree cone test will be effected by the bar we've put on the back.
Didn't get to the indicators, but some good ideas from Peter will be tried tomorrow.
16 Sep 2007, 7:57pm
A bit of a dilema! The steering wheel. The E30 wheel would pass SVA just fine, however the steering column is at a very shallow angle therefore it probably wont pass. The solution a collapsable boss. No problem the momo wheel has that, but its got a few sharp edges on it. So the solution, hopefully, is this:
You can still use the horn button through the sponge but there a nice head impact friendly centre piece!
Made new brackets for the fog and reverse lights so they sit about 1cm further back, this means they can sit at 90 degrees to the ground.
Also made a start on some brackets for the front indicated by bending some pipe up!
You can still use the horn button through the sponge but there a nice head impact friendly centre piece!
Made new brackets for the fog and reverse lights so they sit about 1cm further back, this means they can sit at 90 degrees to the ground.
Also made a start on some brackets for the front indicated by bending some pipe up!
22 Sep 2007, 4:38pm
More small jobs sorted today while waiting for an SVA date:
Indicators installed so that they comply with SVA regs:
Installed new horns as the ones from the donor died:
Finally clean up of the engine wiring loom:
Interior lighting, these run on a dely circuit so when you open the door they stay on for a period of time. They also turn on when you unlock the car with the alarm for a longer period or until the engine is started.:
Indicators installed so that they comply with SVA regs:
Installed new horns as the ones from the donor died:
Finally clean up of the engine wiring loom:
Interior lighting, these run on a dely circuit so when you open the door they stay on for a period of time. They also turn on when you unlock the car with the alarm for a longer period or until the engine is started.:
23 Sep 2007, 2:54pm
Some more small things today:
* Indicators bolted down, they need moving back bit to avoid hitting the front wings on full lock
* Interior some more zip ties on the wiring
* Exhaust plugged taking the noise level at 4000RPM to the mid 90 db's
* Oil topped up
* Test the brakes on the drive way - seems easy enough to lock the wheels at low speed
* Steering wheel sponge cover tweaked a bit
* All lights checked
* Heater cover added and 90 rubber bends to point the air flow at our feet
* Cleaned the garage up, it was starting to look a bit messy!
* Indicators bolted down, they need moving back bit to avoid hitting the front wings on full lock
* Interior some more zip ties on the wiring
* Exhaust plugged taking the noise level at 4000RPM to the mid 90 db's
* Oil topped up
* Test the brakes on the drive way - seems easy enough to lock the wheels at low speed
* Steering wheel sponge cover tweaked a bit
* All lights checked
* Heater cover added and 90 rubber bends to point the air flow at our feet
* Cleaned the garage up, it was starting to look a bit messy!
25 Sep 2007, 11:56am
Got a test date! Next Friday can't wait now!
can't wait now!
25 Sep 2007, 12:02pm
That's great Patrick
I reckon everyone else on the forum will almost be as anxious as you to hear the result!
Good luck
Robin
I reckon everyone else on the forum will almost be as anxious as you to hear the result!
Good luck
Robin
25 Sep 2007, 1:49pm
yeah! I just booked an MOT for Tuesday afternoon and sorted the insurance!
25 Sep 2007, 4:38pm
Good Luck for the test Patrick.
25 Sep 2007, 8:16pm
That's great Patrick
I reckon everyone else on the forum will almost be as anxious as you to hear the result!
Good luck
Robin
I reckon everyone else on the forum will almost be as anxious as you to hear the result!
Good luck
Robin
Yeah, I'm feeling nervous and it's not even my car!
Good luck chaps!
25 Sep 2007, 8:37pm
Not as nervous as I will be Tuesday when I drive it to the local MOT station! My biggest worry is what the weather will do on both Tuesday and Friday!
25 Sep 2007, 9:06pm
Hi Patrick,
one thing I spotted in the SVA manual, you might want to check.
Section 6 says that the lower edge of the dash panel needs to be 19mm radius or 5mm radius if covered with soft material. Soft material is defined as compressable by thumb pressure....etc.
Looking at lots of marlin pictures I think people use something like this....
http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/pc-1816-130-sponge-extrusion.aspx
It's nice and squashy.
Not sure what you have used?
Perhaps Andy could comment on what Vindicator fitted to his car?
one thing I spotted in the SVA manual, you might want to check.
Section 6 says that the lower edge of the dash panel needs to be 19mm radius or 5mm radius if covered with soft material. Soft material is defined as compressable by thumb pressure....etc.
Looking at lots of marlin pictures I think people use something like this....
http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/pc-1816-130-sponge-extrusion.aspx
It's nice and squashy.
Not sure what you have used?
Perhaps Andy could comment on what Vindicator fitted to his car?
25 Sep 2007, 9:09pm
I used the same black rubber trim material that I used on the other panels on the car, looks like it may not be squishy enough. I'll add more squishy stuff to be sure! - thanks
25 Sep 2007, 9:31pm
No probs - Vindicator took my dash and trial fitted it - the gear stick was really close to the bottom edge so they made up an alomst identical one but the bottom edge is curled under - so no issues there. My dash is vinyl covered as well so a little squashy...
gear stick got shortened slightly as well so it's clear of the dash now.
I've tried taking a photo but it's not coming out properly... They're on flickr anyway...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/7757983@N07/1438995237/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/7757983@N07/1438981607/
Andy
gear stick got shortened slightly as well so it's clear of the dash now.
I've tried taking a photo but it's not coming out properly... They're on flickr anyway...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/7757983@N07/1438995237/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/7757983@N07/1438981607/
Andy
25 Sep 2007, 9:45pm
Thanks Andy, I can see what they've done with it
26 Sep 2007, 2:05pm
No probs - I think John said they roll it round a 1 inch diameter tube...
26 Sep 2007, 2:17pm
We've been thinking, that sponge stuff you get to cover radiator pipes aught to be spot on. Covered in vinyl they will look the part too!
26 Sep 2007, 4:15pm
My biggest worry is what the weather will do on both Tuesday and Friday!Weather forecast for next week seems mainly fine and sunny! Seems like you will be lucky!
Robin