Skip to main content

MadaboutKitcars

This is a read-only archive of the old Madabout Kitcars forum. New posts and replies are no longer possible, but every thread is still here to browse and read.

Royale Sabre - Take two!

30 Oct 2017, 9:30pm
Engine removal trial.

Here's the second of my summer 'catch-up' updates to bring my diary up to date.....

Next up was to remove the engine for a partial recondition and spruce up.
I wanted to see if it was possible to remove the BMW from the Sabre without removing the central body tub. Once the car is finished it would be a huge amount of work to remove the body so I wanted to make sure it is possible to remove the engine should the need arise.

Firstly, I removed the radiator, exhaust manifolds, handbrake, propshaft, clutch slave cylinder, gearbox support, gearbox leaver, etc.
I decided to leave the gearbox bolted to the engine although for something like a clutch change it would be possible to drop the gearbox on it's own.

With the engine at the right angle the sump just clears the chassis with the clutch pipe on the bulkhead still in place. It was a very tight squeeze and removing the clutch pipe would have been safer. I did not need to remove the brake master, steering column or the servo.

Engine Removal Trial by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

My unconventional BMW engine installation means that the sump sits behind the chassis cross member.
In this shot you can see the sump just clears the chassis with the engine and gearbox at an extreme angle.

Engine Removal Trial by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

The sump just cleared the offside engine mounting turret.

Engine Removal Trial by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

Engine Removal Trial by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

Engine Removal Trial by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

Engine Removal Trial by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

The trial was a success and the engine is out! Of course, my wings nose and bonnet are not fitted but I am now confident that the engine and gearbox can be removed with the wings and body tub still in place.

The engine and gearbox were then separated and the engine mounted on my engine stand for refurbishment.

More on that in the next few days....

....peter
5 Nov 2017, 5:39pm
Hunt the rattle.....

Ok, so here comes the third of my 'catch-up' updates......

I'm stripping down some of the engine for inspection and some refurbishment. One thing I'm looking for is the source of a rattle on first start up. I suspect worn chain tensioners......First job is to loosen the crankshaft hub bolt and then set the crank at TDC. The hub bolt put up a real good fight but I won!

Engine strip and Inspection by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

I then fitted my home made camshaft locking tool. The dimensions are in the Haynes manual.

Engine strip and Inspection by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

I take lots and lots of photo's for reference to make sure everything goes back again correctly. Here is an example...

Engine strip and Inspection by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

I was surprised to find that the water pump had a stainless steel impeller. No sign of any BMW logo so I presume the water pump had already been replaced at some time in the engine's life. I had already sourced the new pump shown on the left, so that will be fitted.

Engine strip and Inspection by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

Next I removed the single VANOS unit. Photographed after some cleaning.

Engine strip and Inspection by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

After removing the five screws it was immediately clear that the Vanos piston seal had failed as the piston was loose in the cavity.

Engine strip and Inspection by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

It was also apparent that there is axial play with a notable 'clack' sound when the helical gear is pushed and pulled.

Engine strip and Inspection by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

These are two common failure modes on the BMW M52 engines. These are fully described on the Beisan Systems website here....
http://www.beisansystems.com/

Despite all the warnings I managed to mess up the Vanos piston cap screw. I had to revert to welding a nut on top to get it undone.

Vanos repair by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

I bought a Vanos repair kit from VANOS-BMW.com. I was a little wary as they are based in Moscow but the parts are very high quality, well packaged and arrived safely. Teflon and Viton piston o-rings, new bearing ring and piston cap screw. The bearing ring was a perfect fit first time and didn't require any lapping. The kit cost £58 inc delivery and payment is by paypal.

Vanos repair by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

The new piston cap screw has a 17mm profile that is deeper than than the original BMW part. This part is not available from BMW as they don't expect anyone to service the Vanos unit.

Vanos repair by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

New Viton and Teflon rings fitted and are now a snug fit in the Vanos body.

Vanos repair by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

Well that's some of the engine refurbishment done successfully and one possible source of the rattle.

More updates to follow in the next few days....

....peter
7 Nov 2017, 10:41am
Hunt the rattle....part 2

Next I wanted to remove the timing chain cover to inspect the timing chain guides.

First you lock down the secondary chain tensioner. I used a small drill.

Engine strip and Inspection by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

You can then remove the camshaft sprockets and chain.

Engine strip and Inspection by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

Engine strip and Inspection by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

Engine strip and Inspection by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

Earlier engines do not have the friction plates but mine had these already fitted.

Then you remove the crankshaft bolt and pulley.

Engine strip and Inspection by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

Then you can remove the secondary tensioner. Some wear but already 100k+ miles so probably good for another 100k.

Engine strip and Inspection by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

Now with all the bolts removed you can remove the timing chain cover.

Engine strip and Inspection by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr
(Photo after cleaning)

After a good look inside I was surprised to see the amount of slack in the oil pump drive chain....(apologies for the poor video)

Click on image below to take you to Flickr where you can view the videos

BMW M52 Oil Pump chain by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

There is no chain tensioner on this engine and I cannot find anyway of adjusting the chain tension. Googling suggest this normal but I cannot find a spec on what is normal. A new chain is only £25 so I decide to replace it.

After I fitted the chain deflection was down from 12mm to a much more acceptable 6mm.

BMW M52 Oil Pump Chain replaced by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

I think this was the main source of my rattle on start up.

That completes the planned mechanical refurbishment. Now I plan to clean up all the parts, paint them and re-assemble with new seals and gaskets.

...peter
8 Nov 2017, 4:29pm
work done so far

I have been off internet for a long time and today for the first time I checked your progress and as always, job very well done and I can't wait to see the finished article which I am sure is going to be the best.
19 Nov 2017, 4:01pm
Amir - thanks again for your positive feedback. It's taking a while but every little job is one step closer to the finish.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Not a lot of progress in the garage this week due to a bout of 'man-flu' but prior to that I had collected a useful addition to my back yard.

The established method of building a Royale Sabre is to have the central body tub painted prior to the final fitting to the chassis.
For those not familiar with the Sabre here is a picture of the body tub.

Body tub on trolley by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

It's always been my intention to have the car professionally painted but I plan to do as much of the preparation work as possible bearing in mind the existing paint is in poor condition. I still have some work to do on the tub following the re-shaping of the transmission tunnel but that hasn't stopped me thinking about how I will transportit to and from the painters.
My initial thoughts were to buy a small car trailer and then sell it after I've finished with it so I've had a search running on ebay for some time.


One day this popped up and only about an hours drive from home.

Trailer by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

It is the remains of an old Trailer Tent and seems to be just about the perfect size. It's in good condition and has now had a coat of Hammerite to protect it from the elements as it has to live outside. I plan to build a wooden platform to support the tub during transport. But more on that next spring.

Hopefully i'll be back to my engine refurb once my cold subsides....:icon_rolleyes:


...peter
20 Nov 2017, 10:58am
I am really enjoying this thread. As mentioned previously, the Sabre is something I looked at a long time ago, and concluded it was above my competence level to complete. - I was right. I am now experiencing a vicarious build.
20 Nov 2017, 11:14am
Hi Peter,
As always, I admire your patience, dedication and quality of work. This Royale Sabre, as I see it, will be one of a kind and a pleasure to own and drive. I hope you get rid of your cold and back to the real work, producing the best Sabre.
Meanwhile wishing you and family happy Christmas and New year.
25 Nov 2017, 9:11pm
Barber wrote:
I am really enjoying this thread. As mentioned previously, the Sabre is something I looked at a long time ago, and concluded it was above my competence level to complete. - I was right. I am now experiencing a vicarious build.


Thanks, Barber. Glad you are enjoying my updates. Happy to be your surrogate builder :lol:


Amir Manzoori wrote:
Hi Peter,
I hope you get rid of your cold and back to the real work, producing the best Sabre.

Thanks Amir for your best wishes!

Whilst staying in the warm waiting for my cold to pass I spent a good few hours studying the BMW wiring diagrams for my BMW 328i engine. :ranger:
The engine management wiring loom terminates at a 25 way circular multiplug known as the x20. This is very convenient but the details of the individual terminals are scattered across multiple pages of the wiring diagrams.

I've created my own x20 connection diagram from the BMW diagrams. I then checked my spreadsheet with my actual loom and I found only one discrepancy.

The picture below is the 'car side' of the connector that will be spliced into to the main wiring loom, although only 12 wires need to be connected.

BMW x20 connector by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

I guess the proof of the pudding will be next year when I power up the engine :icon_rolleyes:

....peter
29 Nov 2017, 6:43pm
Hi Peter, glad to see things are still ticking along on your build.

Question for you, do you know if the sabre owners club is still active?, I am considering buying a Sabre next year and tried to contact the owners club to join but got no reply, wondered if you knew if it was still going?

Have you seen the 2+2 Sabre conversion thats being done on kitnet, worth a look if you have not.

John
30 Nov 2017, 6:29am
Cabrioman searching for Royale Owners Club

Royale Owners club is up and running and the website is [url]www.royaleownersclub.org.uk[/url]
30 Nov 2017, 8:24am
Amir Manzoori wrote:
Royale Owners club is up and running and the website is [url]www.royaleownersclub.org.uk[/url]


Yeah I had seen the site. I made an enquiry via the contact information on the site to ask if the downloadable member application form and membership secretary address was current before I sent off payment but I never got any response.

I was also wondering if there was an online payment system for membership rather than sending a cheque.

Hence the enquiry to Peter who I know from the Marlin forums.

I’ll drop them another enquiry.

John
30 Nov 2017, 11:46am
Dear John,
I have just informed our club chairman Mr. Peter Gibbon to reply to your enquiries and hope you soon become a member.
Regards
Amir
30 Nov 2017, 3:45pm
Hi John,
As peter couldn't get into madabout-kitcars.com he replied to me and you can read it below.

Amir

Amir,
It seems I need a user name and password to reply, does John not have an email address? Feel free to give John mine for any enquiries, and yes he can apply through the treasurer and pay by bank transfer if he wishes.
Kind regards Peter

(peter.gibbons20@gmail.com)
30 Nov 2017, 7:00pm
cabrioman wrote:
Hi Peter, glad to see things are still ticking along on your build.

Question for you, do you know if the sabre owners club is still active?, I am considering buying a Sabre next year and tried to contact the owners club to join but got no reply, wondered if you knew if it was still going?

Have you seen the 2+2 Sabre conversion thats being done on kitnet, worth a look if you have not.

John


Hi John,
I think Amir has answered the first part of your question. Thanks, Amir.

Are you thinking of buying a Sabre kit to build or a completed car?

I hadn't seen the 2+2 conversion before your comment but now I've had a chance to have a look it's a very interesting development. Some of the early Royale Motor Company adverts have a reference to a 2+2 model but I'm not aware of any cars or kits produced by the factory. It will be interesting to see what he does about the hood?

...peter
30 Nov 2017, 9:03pm
Hi Peter

I’ll most likely buy a car thats useable and then do project updates to it rather than buy a basket case or build / rebuild from scratch. I am hoping to retire next year and quite like the idea of going off for trips in it. With a Sabre I think it could include the Mrs but with the existing Marlin its a bit too snug a fit for her liking.

I thought the + 2 on kitnet looked interesting. Not that I need the seats but it looked like it would create some useful space behind the front seats. To be honest I have always thought the hood on the Sabre could have been better if it had been a bit bigger ( extended towards the back of the car) so you would assume the + 2 would have to do that. As you say it will be interesting to see how he approaches the hood.

Do you happen to know if there is an electronic version of the Sabre build manual available from anywhere, I would like to have a look at it but searching the web has not turned up a source.

Whats the timescale for yours to IVA, you seem to have nailed most of the difficult development.

Cheers

John
1 Dec 2017, 9:33am
cabrioman wrote:
Hi Peter

I’ll most likely buy a car thats useable and then do project updates to it rather than buy a basket case or build / rebuild from scratch. I am hoping to retire next year and quite like the idea of going off for trips in it. With a Sabre I think it could include the Mrs but with the existing Marlin its a bit too snug a fit for her liking.

Do you happen to know if there is an electronic version of the Sabre build manual available from anywhere, I would like to have a look at it but searching the web has not turned up a source.

Whats the timescale for yours to IVA, you seem to have nailed most of the difficult development.

Cheers

John


Hi John,
I think the Sabre is an excellent choice for touring. It would be worth chatting to Peter Gibbons as he has done extensive Continental tours in his car. I'll PM you about the Build Manual.
Timescales to my IVA are really just as long as it takes :lol:

...peter
4 Dec 2017, 10:19pm
Near disaster

The timing cover on the BMW M52 engine has three M6 torx-head bolts that go down through the cylinder head into the top edge of the timing chain cover. I was refitting the cover and following the tightening procedure in the Bentley workshop manual. It said to tighten the M7 bolts to 15Nm. Without checking I assumed that the bolts were M7 and set my torque wrench to 15Nm. As I started to tighten the bolts it was odd that the bolts kept turning without the wrench reaching it's clicking point. At first I thought it was just the new gasket compressing when suddenly one of the bolts gave way and went loose.

Timing chain cover bolts by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr
Timing chain cover bolts by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

TBH I thought I'd snapped the bolt and was amazed that when I removed the bolt it came out complete albeit stretched by a few mm.
It turned out that the bolts are M6 and the correct tightening torque for M6 bolts is 9-10 Nm but I'm still surprised that these bolts would stretch to the point of fracture before only 15Nm.

Anyway, no harm done and I now have a new set of bolts from BMW.:smile:

...peter
5 Dec 2017, 10:38pm
Lucky it came out in one piece Peter, could have been a pain if it hadn’t.

John
6 Dec 2017, 4:32pm
As I discovered to my cost, the "core" of a threaded bolt is actually a lot less than the actual bolt size by the time you take into account how deep the thread is. As I recall, for M6, it is less than 5mm. Considering that the strength is related to the area, and that is related to the square of the radius, the thread reduces the strength considerably.

A bit of a rambling explanation but you get the gist...

Cheers, Robin
6 Dec 2017, 8:16pm
John - yes, it was a very lucky escape!!

Robin - many thanks for the explanation :eusa_think:
20 Dec 2017, 10:30pm
Every little helps.....

With a combination of the very cold weather and the Christmas preparations now in full swing, I've had little time to do any major work on the Sabre.

Grabbing the odd 1/2 hour here and there, I decide to dig out the Sabre's wiring loom and started to check it over and label it properly. The original builder's hand written labels on masking tape (that is now over 22 years old!) are all but unreadable. The wiring section of the build manual has the cable's colour codes so its a case of identifying which cable is which and then sticking a label on it.
I'm still a long way off installing the loom but it is a job that I can do as and when time allows. It should make the installation of the loom much faster when the time comes.

The Sabre's main loom has a number of subsections separated by large multi plugs.
I started with the dashboard subsection....

Dashboard wiring loom by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

I have a small Brother labelling machine that works really well and is highly recommended.

Next up will be the sub-loom that goes to the back of the car for lights and fuel pump, etc.


....peter
13 Jan 2018, 7:55pm
Just a few small updates...

The winter loom labelling exercise is now complete so it's all ready to go in once I reach that stage of the re-build.

Rear loom to rear lights and fuel tank all labelled up.

Rear Loom by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

Main loom checked and labelled. Wiring for Intermittent wipers is an unexpected but useful feature!

Main Loom by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

I seem to have collected quite a few stalk switches but Sierra parts are becoming somewhat harder to find so it's good to have a spare.

Lights and wiper stalks by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

I've also been working outside to keep warm....
So I've built a frame on the tent trailer base. This is for transporting the Sabre's body tub.

Trailer frame by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr


......peter
16 Jan 2018, 10:46pm
A quick re-cap of some engine work I did last November......


peterux wrote:
Next I wanted to remove the timing chain cover to inspect the timing chain guides.

First you lock down the secondary chain tensioner. I used a small drill.

Engine strip and Inspection by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

You can then remove the camshaft sprockets and chain.

Engine strip and Inspection by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr






So after a bit of a pause I finally got round to re-assembling my engine after the refurbishment of the VANOS unit. Before tightening the exhaust camshaft sprocket bolts you need to pretension the timing chain with a tool that replaces the primary chain tensioner.

The chain tensioning tool has to be tightened to 11 inch lbs.
So I hung a 1 pound kitchen scales weight 11 inches from the pivot.

Engine assembly by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

I've fitted a new water pump, thermostat and thermostat cover.

Engine assembly by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

And I've re-installed the sump.....

Engine assembly by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

Engine assembly by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

The sump and head cover will be painted when the weather warms up as it's currently too cold.

......peter
16 Jan 2018, 10:52pm
I like the 'torque wrench' nice work :)
17 Jan 2018, 10:15am
Your improvisation is second to none. Good on you Peter.